Oil Pressure Gauge Stopped Working.

[JonnyTahoe]

I never had low oil pressure; I was doing a cam and timing set so since I was right there I did the pump. But if you've verified low pressure with a mechanical gauge in order to rule out a sensor or gauge problem, the o-ring or pump would be a good place to start. There's also high-volume pumps made that can help if it's worn bearings. I know Melling makes one.

I would of replaced the pump as well because like you said ''it's right there'' on the front of the motor. I myself am sure it is my Oil Tube O-ring as I'm experiencing the exact problems others have wrote in about and found the O-ring was indeed their oil pressure problem.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

I had just started having an issue with startup oil pressure slowly rising then dropping off on my 07 Yukon Denali XL, also had a pretty bad oil leak so I decided to tackle the oil pan gasket and pickup tube o ring.
The o ring was dry rotted and broke into pieces when I pulled it off so I was pretty happy to find that after the work getting to it. The whole process wasn't near as bad as I had been expecting, no lift and not even a jack for the front diff. If I did it again Id definitely use a jack to get the diff back up in place.

The GOOD... I've got oil pressure like I've never had in the year of owning it, the BAD... I think my oil leak is the rear main seal plate.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

I had just started having an issue with startup oil pressure slowly rising then dropping off on my 07 Yukon Denali XL, also had a pretty bad oil leak so I decided to tackle the oil pan gasket and pickup tube o ring.
The o ring was dry rotted and broke into pieces when I pulled it off so I was pretty happy to find that after the work getting to it. The whole process wasn't near as bad as I had been expecting, no lift and not even a jack for the front diff. If I did it again Id definitely use a jack to get the diff back up in place.

The GOOD... I've got oil pressure like I've never had in the year of owning it, the BAD... I think my oil leak is the rear main seal plate.

How did you keep the new pan gasket in place while trying to get the pan back in position. They are held in place with two rivets did you rivet the new gasket in place ?

 

[Rocket Man]

How did you keep the new pan gasket in place while trying to get the pan back in position. They are held in place with two rivets did you rivet the new gasket in place ?

I did. It's just (2) 1/8" pop rivets and they do a nice job of holding it. I didn't want it slipping especially since you have to manuever it around the front differential.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Thanks mark. Can't wait to drop my oil pan and show the old cracked O-Ring to my local mechanic who told me he has never seen or heard of them going bad.

 

[Rocket Man]

Thanks mark. Can't wait to drop my oil pan and show the old cracked O-Ring to my local mechanic who told me he has never seen or heard of them going bad.

I'm curious to see yours. Mine was like new at 150k.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

I never had low oil pressure; I was doing a cam and timing set so since I was right there I did the pump. But if you've verified low pressure with a mechanical gauge in order to rule out a sensor or gauge problem, the o-ring or pump would be a good place to start. There's also high-volume pumps made that can help if it's worn bearings. I know Melling makes one.

I seen a video of the Oil Pump Replacement. Not as easy a job as one would think. You need shims to get it on correctly.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

I'm curious to see yours. Mine was like new at 150k.

Mine would of been too. I did not start having pressure issues until about 280,000 I guess you could say the original O-Ring did it's job as it was designed to do for a very long time 17 years 283,000 miles.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Assuming process is same on 6.2 as the 5.3's. I have CEL so I think mine is just sensor as someone else mentioned.

You will know if your O-Ring is the problem. You will have near normal pressure at start-up but that won't last long your pressure will drop to zero, your Low Oil Pressure Warning Light will come on and your lifters will start making noise. When you hold the RPM's at 1000 or more your pressure returns.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

So how easy was that to change out? I thought dropping the oil pan on these trucks was a major job.

It is a Major Job. I got a quote from my local GM dealer of around seven hours labor. These guys are very determined and are doing this ''Old School'' many only using basic hand tools No Hoists no Air no Heat on a cold garage floor. It took me months of thinking and countless articles and watching every video I could find to get the mind set to even attempt such a project. I'm guessing they all have one thing in common, they want the job done right and the only way your really going to know that is to do the job yourself.

 

[2010WhiteHoe]

Oil pressure sending unit is bad. They are cheap. Pretty common issue

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I've seen this in mine last year. I had to replace the oil sending unit, it's back up in there you need a chair to stand on and plenty of daylight. There is a youtube about it. Google it. Mr. WhiteHoe2010

 

[2010WhiteHoe]

Someone really needs to do a good write up on this. I keep seeing this more and more. My Denali just lost oil pressure, but I am getting code P0523. So I ordered a oil pressure sensor to see if that takes care of it.

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I posted above, hit me up if you can't find it.

[email protected] Mr.WhiteHoe2010

 

[DSRBLDR47]

I know this is an ancient thread but I'm wondering how difficult it is to drop the pan on a 2WD yukon? I've got a random power loss that seems to correspond to intermittent oil pressure loss. The engine sounds perfect, no noise or anything. The sensor was changed, and the filter below the sensor was already removed before this problem started. Pressure loss was verified with a mechanical gauge while driving it. Its a 2010 yukon with 213K on it. I'm going to try an oil change/flush/filter before dropping the pan, just wondering how difficult it is. Does the cross member need to come out to do the R&R?
TIA

 

[Charlie207]

Someone smarter should verify, because I have a 4wd, but you'd want to drop the cross-member and steering rack for clearance.

I would say it's just nuts and bolts, so it should be straightforward. I just saw this video:

 

[DSRBLDR47]

Thanks! Yeah I guess its really no different than the cross member for the rear of the transmission, and the additional four bolts for the steering rack, shouldn't be a big deal. Was your o-ring trashed too?

 

[Charlie207]

Thanks! Yeah I guess its really no different than the cross member for the rear of the transmission, and the additional four bolts for the steering rack, shouldn't be a big deal. Was your o-ring trashed too?

It was probably getting worn out, but I swapped engines with a rebuilt 6.0.

If you have time, it's worth getting an o-ring pickup tube girdle, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BJBHHQB?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4

It'll add a 2nd screw w/clamp to hold the tube tightly into the oil pump.