Oil Pressure Gauge Stopped Working.

[Jagsta]

Hey guys - I was driving our 2007 Yukon Denali home last night and noticed the oil pressure gauge was not reading/showing no oil pressure. I didn't get a DIC message and the engine sounds normal. Is this likely the gauge itself? Anyone had this happen / know what and how difficult it is to repair? Did some searching but all I could ind was oil pressure sensor sending unit but I would think if it was that I would have gotten a DIC message?

Thanks!

-Jagsta

 

[rook]

Same problem. I've read a couple threads about a grommet/o-ring in the oil pump. I'm going to try to attack this first and see if it isn't he culprit. I'm freaking hoping this is it. Just got this rig.

 

[SBCT]

Oil pressure sending unit is bad. They are cheap. Pretty common issue

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[rook]

I should have written an update here - I did in another post. Oil pickup o-ring was toast... I was bleeding oil from there. Changed it, as good as new!

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[Wake]

So how easy was that to change out? I thought dropping the oil pan on these trucks was a major job.

 

[rook]

Half day. Had to take down the front diff, pinion steering - it's no fun but had no choice.


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[M3kanic]

Someone really needs to do a good write up on this. I keep seeing this more and more. My Denali just lost oil pressure, but I am getting code P0523. So I ordered a oil pressure sensor to see if that takes care of it.

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[rook]

There is a write up somewhere to take the oil pan down. I wasn't getting a CEL, just the stabilitrack light that a bunch of threads talk about being associated with this problem somehow. My stabilitrack works great, just tested in our little dusting of snow last week.


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[Wake]

Half day. Had to take down the front diff, pinion steering - it's no fun but had no choice.


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half a day isn't bad. I always thought you had to lift the engine to clear the cross member to get the pan off. It looks like the cross member can be unbolted but I've never seen anyone go that route for some reason.

 

[rook]

I found the link that I looked at to do this - it was actually in a cadillac forum, but the denali and cadillac front end are virtually the same:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...07/612809-diy-replace-oil-pan-gasket-6-a.html

The front diff is fund to get back in, but I managed to do it myself. Had to gut, or "belly" it up into place. Damn I'd love to have a lift...

The thing is, when you're under there looking at it all you'd think you could get to it without taking all of this stuff off. But when you consider that inside the pan is the oil pickup line diving right down into the pan, and that little plug or line they have coming off of your pinion steering is RIGHT BELOW your pan, you realize that you have to start wrenching on stuff to get the pan off.

It all came off relatively easy, but to have nearly exploded my engine because of failure of this little grommet just sucks. THis is the second GM truck that has nearly gone BOOM because of internal oil grommet failure (other was 1995 K2500) I have records from the guy that sold this to me from two trips to a dealership - nearly $2k in parts they threw at this thing. The guy selling it just gave up, and I didn't even see the problem because at +20MPH oil pressure was fine, it was only when warm at idle did the viscocity of the oil get to where it would bleed out of this grommet. My trip though the back woods was more to see if high speeds alerted me to any trouble, I don't think I even let it idle at one stop light when it was warm, I bought this out near the boonies.

Anyway, I've posted pictures and my experience on a bunch of threads and forums because my research had me freaking out about cam bearings, people that eventually had massive battles about blown engines - just take a look around the internet and you'll quickly find some horror stories about the 2007/08 escalade/denali 6.2 oiling and cam bearing problems. I'm guessing at least a portion of cam bearing failure folks had their oil supply cut off from a bleeding pickup grommet like me.

I hope others consider including this in their ?100k-150k? maintenance.

And on a separate note, Wake I see you've got an Audi. I just bought a 2001 Audi S4 - the thing is a little beast! Black on black, someone else had some problems they couldn't solve, I worked my way through it to make it a runner and pass DEQ - all stock, needs a bunch of little things done in addition to the stuff they couldn't fix...

 

[Stick]

I wish i searched this earlier. I'm certain this exact problem turned into the death of my original 5.7l in my Denali. I figured oil pump so i wasn't far off but a little too late. City driving is tough on engines.

 

[rook]

I wish i searched this earlier. I'm certain this exact problem turned into the death of my original 5.7l in my Denali. I figured oil pump so i wasn't far off but a little too late. City driving is tough on engines.

That sucks man. These are awesome rigs, tough to see a BS thing like this bring some of them down for good...


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[gtp1500]

I had just started having an issue with startup oil pressure slowly rising then dropping off on my 07 Yukon Denali XL, also had a pretty bad oil leak so I decided to tackle the oil pan gasket and pickup tube o ring.
The o ring was dry rotted and broke into pieces when I pulled it off so I was pretty happy to find that after the work getting to it. The whole process wasn't near as bad as I had been expecting, no lift and not even a jack for the front diff. If I did it again Id definitely use a jack to get the diff back up in place.

The GOOD... I've got oil pressure like I've never had in the year of owning it, the BAD... I think my oil leak is the rear main seal plate.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

half a day isn't bad. I always thought you had to lift the engine to clear the cross member to get the pan off. It looks like the cross member can be unbolted but I've never seen anyone go that route for some reason.

Cross member is easy to remove. Cleaning the years and years of crud that has collected on the top of it takes a bit more time. Not sure what other route you could go other than lifting the engine.

 

[Searay45db]

I should have written an update here - I did in another post. Oil pickup o-ring was toast... I was bleeding oil from there. Changed it, as good as new!

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Very nice job and post.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

I had just started having an issue with startup oil pressure slowly rising then dropping off on my 07 Yukon Denali XL, also had a pretty bad oil leak so I decided to tackle the oil pan gasket and pickup tube o ring.
The o ring was dry rotted and broke into pieces when I pulled it off so I was pretty happy to find that after the work getting to it. The whole process wasn't near as bad as I had been expecting, no lift and not even a jack for the front diff. If I did it again Id definitely use a jack to get the diff back up in place.

The GOOD... I've got oil pressure like I've never had in the year of owning it, the BAD... I think my oil leak is the rear main seal plate.

That is Exactly what mine is doing. Got a quote from a GM Dealership in my area of 7.5 Hours Labor. My Tahoe is a 00 with 282,000 mi. How you got the differential back in place without a jack is amazing.

 

[Rocket Man]

It's about a half-day job if you just drop down the front diff enough to clear the pan but it's real tight to get the pan off that way. I'm sure the service procedure calls for pulling the diff completely off which is more involved. FYI, I replaced my oil pump at 150 k and the old O-ring was like new. I'd double check your actual oil pressure with a mechanical gauge before diagnosing it as an O-Ring failure.

 

[Meccanoble]

Assuming process is same on 6.2 as the 5.3's. I have CEL so I think mine is just sensor as someone else mentioned.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

It's about a half-day job if you just drop down the front diff enough to clear the pan but it's real tight to get the pan off that way. I'm sure the service procedure calls for pulling the diff completely off which is more involved. FYI, I replaced my oil pump at 150 k and the old O-ring was like new. I'd double check your actual oil pressure with a mechanical gauge before diagnosing it as an O-Ring failure.

Did replacing the oil pump restore your oil pressure ? Had a local mechanic tell me he has never heard of the oil tube O-ring problem. I told him about the many cases of that on this forum and he still did not believe that would cause low oil pressure. I asked him what he thought the problem was he said it's most likely worn Bearings in the engine.

 

[Rocket Man]

Did replacing the oil pump restore your oil pressure ? Had a local mechanic tell me he has never heard of the oil tube O-ring problem. I told him about the many cases of that on this forum and he still did not believe that would cause low oil pressure. I asked him what he thought the problem was he said it's most likely worn Bearings in the engine.

I never had low oil pressure; I was doing a cam and timing set so since I was right there I did the pump. But if you've verified low pressure with a mechanical gauge in order to rule out a sensor or gauge problem, the o-ring or pump would be a good place to start. There's also high-volume pumps made that can help if it's worn bearings. I know Melling makes one.