Oil analysis 0-20 Wolf after 10,000 km or 6,250 miles

[blanchard7684]

Seriously? 0.65 on 10L90 versus 0.67 on 6L80, is that so good? A whole 3%))) even below the statistical error of 5%)

If one transmission has three Od ratios vs two Od ratios, can you tell which engine might be in Od for a greater period of time?

 

[mkcotton]

Are you saying that your dealer won't cancel your warranty because you used 0-40 oil when the manual says 0-20?

That is exactly what I am saying, even if they took the time find out. As a matter of fact, it's an FTC thingy over here.

 

[Vladimir2306]

If one transmission has three Od ratios vs two Od ratios, can you tell which engine might be in Od for a greater period of time?

We are talking about driving on the highway in top gear at 60 mph. What difference does it make how many gears there are if both automatic transmissions are driving in top gear at that moment, loading the engine approximately equally.

 

[blanchard7684]

We are talking about driving on the highway in top gear at 60 mph. What difference does it make how many gears there are if both automatic transmissions are driving in top gear at that moment, loading the engine approximately equally.

Because when load increases to stay at “60 mph” one system downshifts to a higher gear ratio; the higher engine speed lowers the load ( and viscosity requirements) on engine bearings.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Because when load increases to stay at “60 mph” one system downshifts to a higher gear ratio; the higher engine speed lowers the load ( and viscosity requirements) on engine bearings.

That's right, and since the 10L80 does it more often than the 6L80, it means that it saves the engines more, reducing the load on the bearings than the 6-speed automatic transmission did on the 4th generation.

 

[blanchard7684]

Vladimir, I think you have that backwards.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Vladimir, I think you have that backwards.

So tell it right

 

[Silverado4x4]

What Vald is saying is the 6 speed would hold the gear longer when needing to down shift to 5th (bog the motor) where the 10 speed would drop gears quicker down to 9th or 8th making the rpm's higher easier on the motor through gearing. When I had a 6 speed towing boats going up a incline it would hold 6th until I gave it more gas to force it to downshift to raise the rpm's.

 

[blanchard7684]

The 2015 model year (as example for 6L80 package) had up to 4 rear gear ratios. 3.08, 3.23, 3.42, 3.73.

The SUVs came with either 3.08 or 3.42.

Current model SUVS only have a 3.23.

So your shifting strategy and experience with "how long" or " how often" the system downshifts to unload the engine will vary, perhaps alot, relative to the 10 spd 10L80 packages we have now--even if the transmission has a similar final OD ratio.

The 10 spds have three OD gears and two of them are 0.6x which means categorically, the engine is loaded for a greater portion of operational time.

If it is the case that the 6spd units shifted frequently into 5th gear then the shift strategy would be more beneficial to engine bearings by reducing the load and hence the viscosity requirements.

And lastly the strategy itself was likely targeting different torque ranges for downshifting.

There is about a 2 mpg increase between a 6.2 in a 6L80 package like the yukon denali vs current model. Two additional OD gears are added. The rear diff was moved to 3.23. Weight increased.

How do you squeeze 2 extra MPG out of this situation on an EPA drive cycle? 1) run the target torque for downshifting upwards 2) then downshift to only a slightly higher OD ratio. Of course there is also 3) DFM and 4) A-S-S.

These changes put more load on engine bearings, not less. Thus the oil viscosity is rightly questioned.

 

[mkcotton]

Yes, thank you, I am also tired of paying attention to all the nonsense that he writes in different topics. By the way, yes, judging by the statistics, only 5% of cars break down. This means that most likely at least 95% of owners simply pour oil according to the regulations and do not even know about possible problems

"Only 5% of..." You're setting a low bar for quality. That is ~30K of unsuspecting L87 owners trying maneuver a 5K lb vehicle to a stop... which happen to be a large percentage of soccer moms. ~30k owners that paid north of $50k, and in many case north $80k for "a defect" that has GM recommending double the oil weight than "they initially recommended". Not to mention we are now closing out August and moving into September with ~30k L87 owners sitting on a potential grenade with little to no direction from the manufacturer.

You can argue that 0W-20 is just fine; you're never going to win that argument. You can argue that this generation of L87 was designed for 0W-20, which is not remotely accurate (modified to accept, but certainly not designed; my Acura 4 cylinder runs 0W-20)... You can argue all you want, but I guarantee 90% of all the point counter points will not age well when this is all over!

I go back to what I said in a previous post, "do what makes you feel more confident and comfortable"... run 0W-40, cut oil change intervals in half, cut open the old oil filter, send every oil change sample for analysis or simply wait for GM!

It's amazing how easy it is to spot common sense online.

 

[Vladimir2306]

"Only 5% of..." You're setting a low bar for quality. That is ~30K of unsuspecting L87 owners trying maneuver a 5K lb vehicle to a stop... which happen to be a large percentage of soccer moms. ~30k owners that paid north of $50k, and in many case north $80k for "a defect" that has GM recommending double the oil weight than "they initially recommended". Not to mention we are now closing out August and moving into September with ~30k L87 owners sitting on a potential grenade with little to no direction from the manufacturer.

You can argue that 0W-20 is just fine; you're never going to win that argument. You can argue that this generation of L87 was designed for 0W-20, which is not remotely accurate (modified to accept, but certainly not designed; my Acura 4 cylinder runs 0W-20)... You can argue all you want, but I guarantee 90% of all the point counter points will not age well when this is all over!

I go back to what I said in a previous post, "do what makes you feel more confident and comfortable"... run 0W-40, cut oil change intervals in half, cut open the old oil filter, send every oil change sample for analysis or simply wait for GM!

It's amazing how easy it is to spot common sense online.

Oh, just don't scare me with statistics))) 30,000 owners is nothing compared to 95% of those who have everything normal. And I repeat, changing the oil to 0-40 will not do anything) Just as GM lied about changing the engine from 01.07.24, so it continues to lie with the 0-40 oil. I saw what happened to my engine. There were no shavings in it during the previous oil change, and 2000 km after the oil change it broke down.
This means that some fatal factor is happening, which abruptly kills the point of contact between the bearing and the crankshaft. And it is not the oil, because it was fresh, and not the 0-20, because I drove on 0-20 oil for 7500 miles before that. And in this situation, 0-60 oil would definitely not help either.

 

[Vladimir2306]

The 2015 model year (as example for 6L80 package) had up to 4 rear gear ratios. 3.08, 3.23, 3.42, 3.73.

The SUVs came with either 3.08 or 3.42.

Current model SUVS only have a 3.23.

So your shifting strategy and experience with "how long" or " how often" the system downshifts to unload the engine will vary, perhaps alot, relative to the 10 spd 10L80 packages we have now--even if the transmission has a similar final OD ratio.

The 10 spds have three OD gears and two of them are 0.6x which means categorically, the engine is loaded for a greater portion of operational time.

If it is the case that the 6spd units shifted frequently into 5th gear then the shift strategy would be more beneficial to engine bearings by reducing the load and hence the viscosity requirements.

And lastly the strategy itself was likely targeting different torque ranges for downshifting.

There is about a 2 mpg increase between a 6.2 in a 6L80 package like the yukon denali vs current model. Two additional OD gears are added. The rear diff was moved to 3.23. Weight increased.

How do you squeeze 2 extra MPG out of this situation on an EPA drive cycle? 1) run the target torque for downshifting upwards 2) then downshift to only a slightly higher OD ratio. Of course there is also 3) DFM and 4) A-S-S.

These changes put more load on engine bearings, not less. Thus the oil viscosity is rightly questioned.

What difference does it make what the reverse gear was? Reverse gear is needed for moving backwards. We are talking about forward motion transmission on the highway. And on the 6L80, the automatic transmission almost always held the highest 6th gear on the highway, which has a gear ratio of 0.67, switching to 5th (0.85) very rarely. I even accelerated smoothly on the 6L80 in 6th gear, without turning on the V8, yes, yes, I was able to accelerate on the 6L80 on V4 and the highest 6th gear, here you have everything: work at a gear ratio of 0.67, and AFM, and 0-20 oil.
And on the 10L90, the automatic transmission practically does not work in the highest 10th gear with a gear ratio of 0.65, at the slightest thing, it immediately switches to 9th gear, with a ratio of 0.69, which puts less load on the engine than 6th gear on the 6L80, because of this, I repeat, the fuel efficiency on the highway on the 10L90 is worse than on the 6L80.

 

[blanchard7684]

What difference does it make what the reverse gear was? Reverse gear is needed for moving backwards. We are talking about forward motion transmission on the highway. And on the 6L80, the automatic transmission almost always held the highest 6th gear on the highway, which has a gear ratio of 0.67, switching to 5th (0.85) very rarely. I even accelerated smoothly on the 6L80 in 6th gear, without turning on the V8, yes, yes, I was able to accelerate on the 6L80 on V4 and the highest 6th gear, here you have everything: work at a gear ratio of 0.67, and AFM, and 0-20 oil.
And on the 10L90, the automatic transmission practically does not work in the highest 10th gear with a gear ratio of 0.65, at the slightest thing, it immediately switches to 9th gear, with a ratio of 0.69, which puts less load on the engine than 6th gear on the 6L80, because of this, I repeat, the fuel efficiency on the highway on the 10L90 is worse than on the 6L80.

Vladimir,

That isn’t a reverse gear ratio in transmission —it is the ratio in the rear differential.

 

[mkcotton]

Oh, just don't scare me with statistics))) 30,000 owners is nothing compared to 95% of those who have everything normal. And I repeat, changing the oil to 0-40 will not do anything) Just as GM lied about changing the engine from 01.07.24, so it continues to lie with the 0-40 oil. I saw what happened to my engine. There were no shavings in it during the previous oil change, and 2000 km after the oil change it broke down.
This means that some fatal factor is happening, which abruptly kills the point of contact between the bearing and the crankshaft. And it is not the oil, because it was fresh, and not the 0-20, because I drove on 0-20 oil for 7500 miles before that. And in this situation, 0-60 oil would definitely not help either.

GM lied… at least we agree on one thing. Where we diverge is that others are lying to you too or you simply have confirmation bias (definition so you don’t misinterpret, “tendency to process information by looking for, or interpreting, information that is consistent with your existing beliefs”). This is not meant to be an insult; simply calling it as I see it. You have but one L87 experience, and it’s understandable that this experience shapes your current beliefs. Nothing you say is based on facts, simply your experiences. My facts are as simple as yours, experience tells me that the manufacturer has nothing to gain by coming clean on the cause of the defect or the real reason they switched to 0W-20. My facts also tell me to disregard some of the bull$hit manufacturer maintenance recommendations and do what makes me feel comfortable & confidence. This has worked for me for 45 years as I’ve never had a daily driver engine grenade itself. The bottom line is simple, while your experiences shape your beliefs, no amount argument or strident dressing down of people on this forum will bring them to your way of thinking, a few maybe, the majority, not likely. My final comment is, if you had practiced better maintenance of your Yukon you might not have had an engine failure. You could have been part of the “95% of those who have everything normal”(SIC).

 

[Vladimir2306]

GM lied… at least we agree on one thing. Where we diverge is that others are lying to you too or you simply have confirmation bias (definition so you don’t misinterpret, “tendency to process information by looking for, or interpreting, information that is consistent with your existing beliefs”). This is not meant to be an insult; simply calling it as I see it. You have but one L87 experience, and it’s understandable that this experience shapes your current beliefs. Nothing you say is based on facts, simply your experiences. My facts are as simple as yours, experience tells me that the manufacturer has nothing to gain by coming clean on the cause of the defect or the real reason they switched to 0W-20. My facts also tell me to disregard some of the bull$hit manufacturer maintenance recommendations and do what makes me feel comfortable & confidence. This has worked for me for 45 years as I’ve never had a daily driver engine grenade itself. The bottom line is simple, while your experiences shape your beliefs, no amount argument or strident dressing down of people on this forum will bring them to your way of thinking, a few maybe, the majority, not likely. My final comment is, if you had practiced better maintenance of your Yukon you might not have had an engine failure. You could have been part of the “95% of those who have everything normal”(SIC).

I followed, and continue to follow, my Yukon, probably better than most users of these cars do. Unfortunately, History does not tolerate subjunctive moods and Change the oil every 1000 miles, is not the same as it is better to keep an eye on the car.
And it is my personal opinion that it is the way I have been following and doing this with my Yukon that has ensured my life for 75,000 miles, and not death in the first 10,000 miles.

 

[mkcotton]

I followed, and continue to follow, my Yukon, probably better than most users of these cars do. Unfortunately, History does not tolerate subjunctive moods and Change the oil every 1000 miles, is not the same as it is better to keep an eye on the car.
And it is my personal opinion that it is the way I have been following and doing this with my Yukon that has ensured my life for 75,000 miles, and not death in the first 10,000 miles.

Again, I totally respect your perspective. However, 75k is not a lot of miles, I am shooting for 200k+. So maybe there is something you could've done differently/better. And when I say "differently", I mean better maintenance than the "manufacturers" recommendation. If not, let's talk again at the 150k rebuild.

 

[Scarey]

The op is a troll.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Again, I totally respect your perspective. However, 75k is not a lot of miles, I am shooting for 200k+. So maybe there is something you could've done differently/better. And when I say "differently", I mean better maintenance than the "manufacturers" recommendation. If not, let's talk again at the 150k rebuild.

What's your mileage now?

 

[mkcotton]

What's your mileage now?

Not many on my 2024, but I had 110k on my 2022. That is a little over 55k per year. It purred like a kitten. And I am practicing the same maintenance habits!

 

[Vladimir2306]

Not many on my 2024, but I had 110k on my 2022. That is a little over 55k per year. It purred like a kitten. And I am practicing the same maintenance habits!

Okay, that's going to be an interesting observation. I, yes, I'm not making conclusions based on my one Yukon.