Noise in driveline, pinion bearing?

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dkad260

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I looked back.. 120k on the rear?


interesting info
Yes.

I bought it with 90K and not long after I replaced all the fluids, the rear pinion seal was leaking bad, had to place cardboard under it every night.

I believe it was leaking before and may have been ran low.

The axle bearings, and axles were making noise and now this, so safe bet it was from low fluid...not sure.
 

j91z28d1

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makes sense. when I last looked up the g80 diff stuff, it looked like guys were going 300 plus. and some saying 500k with just fluid changes and not abusing them. I'm no bearing expert, but that looks like it going to fail long before 300k.
 

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makes sense. when I last looked up the g80 diff stuff, it looked like guys were going 300 plus. and some saying 500k with just fluid changes and not abusing them. I'm no bearing expert, but that looks like it going to fail long before 300k.
Lots of G80s running around with 400K+ on the original bearings. Very unusual to need that kind of work at 120K miles.
 

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After many trial and errors, I feel this is the best pattern I will end up with given the shims on hand.

Backlash is right around .006, give or take a needle width.

Drive

View attachment 405839

Coast

View attachment 405840
That should run nice and quiet, and last a long time. Nice work, sir.

I did a similar job in April of '22 on our Land Rover LR2. They're infamous for eating pinion bearings on the rear diff, so it's considered normal maintenance. This one had a nice growl to it loud enough that the factory Alpine stereo could no longer drown it out.

1691754228342.png

1691754452420.png
 
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dkad260

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That should run nice and quiet, and last a long time. Nice work, sir

Thanks, fingers crossed.

Just wanted to verify the pinion rotating torque with a new seal. I have an extra crush sleeve if needed, but I'm at 22-25 inch pounds and I want to say max should be 19, but not sure.

I had 14-15 inch pounds and gave it a tiny bit more, and as they say...it builds fast...lol.
 
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dkad260

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Thanks.

Your chart is one that I've seen as much as the AAM gears showing 14-19 for new bearings.

The 23 felt tight so I went back and used the spare crush sleeve and I carefully approached my final torque of 18 inch pounds.

I preloaded the carrier bearings and ended up with .007" backlash, and a final rotating torque of 24-25 inch pounds. This puts me at right around 21-23 inch pounds for the carrier alone.

Ended up with a slightly better pattern as well, drive and coast are more aligned, drive moved off the toe just slightly but still biased to the toe which is good.

Drive

Screenshot_20230811-120259_Gallery.jpg

Coast

Screenshot_20230811-115003_Gallery.jpg
 

Just Fishing

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That should run nice and quiet, and last a long time. Nice work, sir.

I did a similar job in April of '22 on our Land Rover LR2. They're infamous for eating pinion bearings on the rear diff, so it's considered normal maintenance. This one had a nice growl to it loud enough that the factory Alpine stereo could no longer drown it out.

View attachment 405841

View attachment 405842

Landrovers are pretty.
Wife loved hers (freelander), but the BMW designed engine used glue to hold the cylinder inserts in the block...
Sure that probably would have worked fine, however the coolant that landrover used just happened to disolve that glue over time.

What you get is coolant in the oil.

The rule ever since is "Japanese or American cars only".

Only exception to the rule would be an antique, and maybe a Porshe 911 where I fully understand what I'm getting into.
But still, a Corvette is so much easier and cheaper to deal with. :jester:
 

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