New Tahoe Owner with a few questions/concerns

[TNJYOUNG]

Good evening Tahoe family,

I have been doing some reading on here over the past hour. Read through the "sticky" and then a few odd and end posts here and there. I have a few things that I have noticed about my Tahoe and I have developed a curiosity over a few other things after reading. I have only had the Tahoe for about 3 days, so I myself have not really had the time to notice any true problems, but I thought I would get a post started to address what is, and what is to come:

Black 2013 Tahoe LT, 5.3, 4WD (single stage gearbox-AWD? no 4-Lo, only 2hi, auto, and 4hi)
85k miles. Price paid: $23,900.00 +$1900.00 for the 48 month "bumper to Bumper" warranty=
$25, 800.00 Total.

1. My rear windshield wiper/washer does not spray.
2. My driver's side door pull (the vinyl one, not the door opener handle) has broken inside and the vinyl feels squishy and needs to be replaced/repaired (it does not "look bad")
3. My rear backup sensors do not appear to work. They do not appear to be turned off, but I have never heard them beep.
4. How can I tell if the air-shocks are working, compressor is working, etc? I have not noticed any leveling, stiffening, or noise. Maybe they are broken?
5. I was descending a mountain over the weekend, braking often, and I heard a quick growl sound and noticed a message on the instrument cluster that read something like "grade assist activated". It lasted only a second or two and never occurred again.
6. I cannot seem to get the universal garage door buttons to sync with my old door opener (Craftsman 1/2HP -1995). I push the outside buttons for ~20 seconds to clear buttons, then the outside buttons for 2 seconds, then push the train button on opener, then back to the vehicle and press a single button and nothing...
7. When I push the button to "auto-fold" the mirrors, the driver's side motor sound as if it is straining (but it works)
8. The driver's side rear window seems to hit a "hard stop" with a slight "thud" at its lowermost position. The other window just stops at the lowest position quietly (like one would expect it to).
9. The plastic tread on the rear bumper (that you would stand on) slips around when you push on it. It doesn't seem to blow around, make noise, or fall off, but it doesn't seem "snapped in" or "adhered" to the bumper.

CARFAX showed no accidents. There had been (4) owners, however, which seemed excessive to me and caused a moment of pause, but 18 maintenance records. This brought me back home, as this would be roughly 3x/yr.


I did purchase a 48 month "bumper-to-bumper" warranty as I was leery of the 85k used vehicle with all of the bells and whistles this one has. It has a $100 deductible, but may cover some of these issues?

So far this vehicle is the most comfortable vehicle I have owned and it it an absolute pleasure to drive. The transmission seems smooth and, even with the 5.3V8, it is quiet, smooth, and just seems to "glide". I am hopeful that it performs this way for may years to come. I know nothing manmade is perfect, but I have heard good things about the Tahoe.

Cheers~

 

[gpracer1]

#2. Door panel pull handles are complete crap on these vehicles. It’s all flimsy plastic underneath and totally weak. If you don’t come up with some kind of fix yourself you can only buy a new complete door panel to make it right at the cost of an arm or leg. I decided to use metal and epoxy and reinforce my broken passenger side.

#5 the trans will downshift to keep you from accelerating down a mountain if you are off the throttle, normal.

#6. Garage opener may be too old or you just need to follow the instructions in the owners manual.

Everything else you would have to be there to troubleshoot.

 

[kbuskill]

Regarding the auto leveling air shocks... you need to check your RPO codes in the glove box for Z55... your truck being an LT may or may not have that option.

The grade assist is a normal function that I am certain @swathdiver or @Galante can tell you more about... it wasn't offered on my 2008.

 

[TNJYOUNG]

#2. Door panel pull handles are complete crap on these vehicles. It’s all flimsy plastic underneath and totally weak. If you don’t come up with some kind of fix yourself you can only buy a new complete door panel to make it right at the cost of an arm or leg. I decided to use metal and epoxy and reinforce my broken passenger side.

#5 the trans will downshift to keep you from accelerating down a mountain if you are off the throttle, normal.

#6. Garage opener may be too old or you just need to follow the instructions in the owners manual.

Everything else you would have to be there to troubleshoot.

Regarding the auto leveling air shocks... you need to check your RPO codes in the glove box for Z55... your truck being an LT may or may not have that option.

The grade assist is a normal function that I am certain @swathdiver or @Galante can tell you more about... it wasn't offered on my 2008.

Thank you gentlemen!

 

[PG01]

I dont think you have air ride, i believe that was only on ltz and up, no awd just a 2 sp trans case so correct no 4 low, grade braking-its like a jake brake on a semi.... helps slow truck down so you dont overheat brakes, garage door opener... i think you press 2 outside buttons to put truck in learn, then hit garage door opener learn button then press button you want to work door in the truck.... but like @gpracer1 said opener maybe too old...although i programmed my sil’s to my truck and i know its at least 15 yrs old...in dic buttons turn on backup assist(don’t remember if thats an option) or button under hvac contols, mirror gears strip because plastic... matter of time before it stops working-they make a replacement brass gear set or get new mirror. My rear pass window does same since new. Back bumper was replaced or repaired and they did not replace the pad correctly... no glue or tape it just pops in with tabs... which brings me back to backup assist... bumper was probably replaced and something not plugged in. Hope this helps

 

[swathdiver]

If yours did not come with an owner's manual, you can download one from GMs website. Go to Chapter 9 to learn about Cruise Grade Braking and the transfer case and such. When my kids started driving, I, being a mean old Dad, made them sit down and read the owner's manual of every car in the driveway at the time and then quizzed them on it! Now I ain't your Pa Jason but take my advice and read the whole thing cover to cover.

Your Tahoe sounds like she has good bones but was rode a little rough, a few thousand in repairs and I reckon she'll be back in tip top shape. Do the 100k service now if you can, get the improved gears from Gruven for the mirrors, get a new door panel - that one might be covered depending on the kind of warranty. Get a Tech2 so you can work on this thing too. Without it, one is guessing much of the time. It will pay for itself in short order.

I wonder with that single speed transfer case if you have 3.08 gears? Great for highway mileage. For $5 you can decode your VIN and RPO Sheet over at compnine or send an email to GM and they'll do it for free in a day or so.

 

[TNJYOUNG]

I dont think you have air ride, i believe that was only on ltz and up, no awd just a 2 sp trans case so correct no 4 low, grade braking-its like a jake brake on a semi.... helps slow truck down so you dont overheat brakes, garage door opener... i think you press 2 outside buttons to put truck in learn, then hit garage door opener learn button then press button you want to work door in the truck.... but like @gpracer1 said opener maybe too old...although i programmed my sil’s to my truck and i know its at least 15 yrs old...in dic buttons turn on backup assist(don’t remember if thats an option) or button under hvac contols, mirror gears strip because plastic... matter of time before it stops working-they make a replacement brass gear set or get new mirror. My rear pass window does same since new. Back bumper was replaced or repaired and they did not replace the pad correctly... no glue or tape it just pops in with tabs... which brings me back to backup assist... bumper was probably replaced and something not plugged in. Hope this helps

Very good information. Thank you. Bumper was removed last week and “repainted”. It had taken a bump and was scratched. My guess is, like you said, body shop didn’t get it popped in correctly. Wonder if I could, or if the bumper has to be off? I will check the DIC controls

 

[TNJYOUNG]

Now I ain't your Pa Jason but take my advice and read the whole thing cover to cover.

Your Tahoe sounds like she has good bones but was rode a little rough, a few thousand in repairs and I reckon she'll be back in tip top shape. Do the 100k service now if you can, get the improved gears from Gruven for the mirrors, get a new door panel - that one might be covered depending on the kind of warranty. Get a Tech2 so you can work on this thing too. Without it, one is guessing much of the time. It will pay for itself in short order.

I wonder with that single speed transfer case if you have 3.08 gears? Great for highway mileage. For $5 you can decode your VIN and RPO Sheet over at compnine or send an email to GM and they'll do it for free in a day or so.

Sounds like I have some reading to do, a book to buy, and a VIN to decode.

 

[Doubeleive]

as for the rear window washer there is 2 pumps on the bottom of the fluid tank, if you have someone press the button on the inside if you are near the tank on the outside you should be able to hear the pump running, if not them the pump may be bad, if it does run then look under the truck for any washer fluid spraying out the lines sometime crack and break which is a easy fix with rubber vacuum line and hose clamps, I have heard the line breaks near the rear sometimes.
air pump shocks- if you have the option then when you first start the truck in the morning then you should hear the pump run a few seconds and shut off, you will see the rear end lift slightly also.

 

[PG01]

Once the tabs are bent to remove pad they never sit right unless you remove it carefully... back bumper comes off fairly easy... same as front.... a few screws and a pop and a click and its off

 

[iamdub]

1. My rear windshield wiper/washer does not spray.
2. My driver's side door pull (the vinyl one, not the door opener handle) has broken inside and the vinyl feels squishy and needs to be replaced/repaired (it does not "look bad")
3. My rear backup sensors do not appear to work. They do not appear to be turned off, but I have never heard them beep.
4. How can I tell if the air-shocks are working, compressor is working, etc? I have not noticed any leveling, stiffening, or noise. Maybe they are broken?
5. I was descending a mountain over the weekend, braking often, and I heard a quick growl sound and noticed a message on the instrument cluster that read something like "grade assist activated". It lasted only a second or two and never occurred again.
6. I cannot seem to get the universal garage door buttons to sync with my old door opener (Craftsman 1/2HP -1995). I push the outside buttons for ~20 seconds to clear buttons, then the outside buttons for 2 seconds, then push the train button on opener, then back to the vehicle and press a single button and nothing...
7. When I push the button to "auto-fold" the mirrors, the driver's side motor sound as if it is straining (but it works)
8. The driver's side rear window seems to hit a "hard stop" with a slight "thud" at its lowermost position. The other window just stops at the lowest position quietly (like one would expect it to).
9. The plastic tread on the rear bumper (that you would stand on) slips around when you push on it. It doesn't seem to blow around, make noise, or fall off, but it doesn't seem "snapped in" or "adhered" to the bumper.

CARFAX showed no accidents. There had been (4) owners, however, which seemed excessive to me and caused a moment of pause, but 18 maintenance records.

Most have been answered, but I'll throw in my penny's worth:

1. My rear windshield wiper/washer does not spray.

Ensure the pump is running when the button is pushed. Mine ran but didn't pump- it turned out that the hose was dry rotted and cracked and was disconnected at the line from the pump to inside the fender. A $2 length of hose and 5 minutes of work restored this function.

2. My driver's side door pull (the vinyl one, not the door opener handle) has broken inside and the vinyl feels squishy and needs to be replaced/repaired (it does not "look bad")

They're designed to be softer where the elbow rests, but heavier-armed people can smash the vinyl in. I'd try to reinforce it from the bottom side before replacing the whole panel.

3. My rear backup sensors do not appear to work. They do not appear to be turned off, but I have never heard them beep.

If there was body work done to the rear bumper, maybe they left the sensors unplugged?

4. How can I tell if the air-shocks are working, compressor is working, etc? I have not noticed any leveling, stiffening, or noise. Maybe they are broken?

When the key is first turned to "on", before starting or right after it's started, you should hear the compressor run for a few seconds. Look at the bellows on the shocks to see if they're blown. Chances are that they are blown. The compressor would then run too much and either blow it's fuse(s) or burn up altogether.

5. I was descending a mountain over the weekend, braking often, and I heard a quick growl sound and noticed a message on the instrument cluster that read something like "grade assist activated". It lasted only a second or two and never occurred again.

Normal function under those conditions.

6. I cannot seem to get the universal garage door buttons to sync with my old door opener (Craftsman 1/2HP -1995). I push the outside buttons for ~20 seconds to clear buttons, then the outside buttons for 2 seconds, then push the train button on opener, then back to the vehicle and press a single button and nothing...

Garage door operator may be too old, but the Tahoe's built-in remote can be finicky as well. It's not as easy to program as the old Homelink remote that used to come in these things. When programming mine, I had to press the button that I wanted to program off and on for one second each (press for one second, release for one second, press for one second, etc.) until the operator responded.

7. When I push the button to "auto-fold" the mirrors, the driver's side motor sound as if it is straining (but it works)

Common issue. The driver's door get used and slammed the most, so that mirror gets jarred around the most and the fragile gear inside usually fails quicker.

8. The driver's side rear window seems to hit a "hard stop" with a slight "thud" at its lowermost position. The other window just stops at the lowest position quietly (like one would expect it to).

My passenger side does this. I haven't investigated it yet, but I'd guess that the rubber bumper(s) at the bottom of the track have dry rotted and fallen off.

9. The plastic tread on the rear bumper (that you would stand on) slips around when you push on it. It doesn't seem to blow around, make noise, or fall off, but it doesn't seem "snapped in" or "adhered" to the bumper.

If body work was done recently, it was probably not properly reattached.

CARFAX showed no accidents. There had been (4) owners, however, which seemed excessive to me and caused a moment of pause, but 18 maintenance records

Some of those "owners" could have been the dealers themselves.

 

[TNJYOUNG]

Most have been answered, but I'll throw in my penny's worth:

1. My rear windshield wiper/washer does not spray.

Ensure the pump is running when the button is pushed. Mine ran but didn't pump- it turned out that the hose was dry rotted and cracked and was disconnected at the line from the pump to inside the fender. A $2 length of hose and 5 minutes of work restored this function.

2. My driver's side door pull (the vinyl one, not the door opener handle) has broken inside and the vinyl feels squishy and needs to be replaced/repaired (it does not "look bad")

They're designed to be softer where the elbow rests, but heavier-armed people can smash the vinyl in. I'd try to reinforce it from the bottom side before replacing the whole panel.

3. My rear backup sensors do not appear to work. They do not appear to be turned off, but I have never heard them beep.

If there was body work done to the rear bumper, maybe they left the sensors unplugged?

4. How can I tell if the air-shocks are working, compressor is working, etc? I have not noticed any leveling, stiffening, or noise. Maybe they are broken?

When the key is first turned to "on", before starting or right after it's started, you should hear the compressor run for a few seconds. Look at the bellows on the shocks to see if they're blown. Chances are that they are blown. The compressor would then run too much and either blow it's fuse(s) or burn up altogether.

5. I was descending a mountain over the weekend, braking often, and I heard a quick growl sound and noticed a message on the instrument cluster that read something like "grade assist activated". It lasted only a second or two and never occurred again.

Normal function under those conditions.

6. I cannot seem to get the universal garage door buttons to sync with my old door opener (Craftsman 1/2HP -1995). I push the outside buttons for ~20 seconds to clear buttons, then the outside buttons for 2 seconds, then push the train button on opener, then back to the vehicle and press a single button and nothing...

Garage door operator may be too old, but the Tahoe's built-in remote can be finicky as well. It's not as easy to program as the old Homelink remote that used to come in these things. When programming mine, I had to press the button that I wanted to program off and on for one second each (press for one second, release for one second, press for one second, etc.) until the operator responded.

7. When I push the button to "auto-fold" the mirrors, the driver's side motor sound as if it is straining (but it works)

Common issue. The driver's door get used and slammed the most, so that mirror gets jarred around the most and the fragile gear inside usually fails quicker.

8. The driver's side rear window seems to hit a "hard stop" with a slight "thud" at its lowermost position. The other window just stops at the lowest position quietly (like one would expect it to).

My passenger side does this. I haven't investigated it yet, but I'd guess that the rubber bumper(s) at the bottom of the track have dry rotted and fallen off.

9. The plastic tread on the rear bumper (that you would stand on) slips around when you push on it. It doesn't seem to blow around, make noise, or fall off, but it doesn't seem "snapped in" or "adhered" to the bumper.

If body work was done recently, it was probably not properly reattached.

CARFAX showed no accidents. There had been (4) owners, however, which seemed excessive to me and caused a moment of pause, but 18 maintenance records

Some of those "owners" could have been the dealers themselves.

Thank you for your post. It was excellent. BTW, the rear sensors are working . The "dealers being owners" is an excellent observation!

 

[PG01]

Thats what this place is all about... you ask... we answer. Welcome again

 

[swathdiver]

Some of those "owners" could have been the dealers themselves.

Mine showed 4 owners but was only ever owned by one lady.

 

[iamdub]

Mine showed 4 owners but was only ever owned by one lady.

Mine was like that... sort of. The second owner was the owner of the car lot and he kept the Tahoe for his wife to drive. So, I definitely felt safe buying it! Original owner was some sort of lawyer or businessman that, apparently, only used the back seat area to carry his dry-cleaned suits.

 

[swathdiver]

Mine was like that... sort of. The second owner was the owner of the car lot and he kept the Tahoe for his wife to drive. So, I definitely felt safe buying it! Original owner was some sort of lawyer or businessman that, apparently, only used the back seat area to carry his dry-cleaned suits.

From what I've been able to piece together with mine, when the AFM went kaput, she traded it in at the original dealer, they sent it off to auction and Manheim got stuck paying a dealer in Virginia to fix it and then another dealer bought it and I got it from them.

 

[iamdub]

Thank you for your post. It was excellent. BTW, the rear sensors are working . The "dealers being owners" is an excellent observation!

Any luck with the built-in remote? Had a chance to troubleshoot the rear washer?

 

[TNJYOUNG]

Any luck with the built-in remote? Had a chance to troubleshoot the rear washer?

I will try on the weekend. I have had something to do every day after work.

 

[PG01]

I will try on the weekend. I have had something to do every day after work.

Me too...damn kids

 

[TNJYOUNG]

Any luck with the built-in remote? Had a chance to troubleshoot the rear washer?

Update:

1. I did finally get the garage door opener synced up—-boy was it finicky.
2. I removed the front push bar and led lights.
3. I went by the dealer and made and appointment to have the door, rear washer, and battery checked out (just for safety’s sake-car is 5 years old)