New moog stuff info

[slipping]

I want to get all me ball joints, tie rods end links and u joints. If I do everything what all am I looking to do, Moog best for all? And maybe some part numbers? Thanks!

 

[Gzes]

Ball joints are gonna be fun! Not.... I would get all the stuff and let a shop do it bro. Ball joints are upper and lower and should be around $40 a popish. Tie rods and misc arent tok bad niether. I would also check the bishings and replace them because yea we have old ass trucks and the bushings go bad

 

[slipping]

OK. I wanna get everything together and for it all at the same time

 

[Danzigman]

I have had good luck out of PST suspension kits on my muscle cars, they make stuff for our trucks you may give them a try.

 

[SunlitComet]

Slipping is your 1999 unit 2wd or 4wd.

 

[slipping]

I have had good luck out of PST suspension kits on my muscle cars, they make stuff for our trucks you may give them a try.

Ok. I think i was looking at them years back for my camaro

Slipping is your 1999 unit 2wd or 4wd.

2wd. I forgot to post that info.

 

[SunlitComet]

moog part numbers:

upper joint K6292
lower joint K6445

inner rod ES2837RL
outer rod ES2836RL

 

[slipping]

moog part numbers:

upper joint K6292
lower joint K6445

inner rod ES2837RL
outer rod ES2836RL

Very cool sir, thanks as always! How about the u joints on the drive shaft. I looked at amazon had several AC delco and rock auto had a long list. Are the all the same less lubed/non lubed?

 

[SunlitComet]

MOOG/PRECISION Part # 235 U Joint - Greaseable Super-Strength; Needle Type Grease Fitting

this one after installed has a needle type grease fitting that screws into one of the joint ends so that it is not buried inside the reinstalled assembly. i use the same # for front and back. only back has gotten put in so far. the front shaft has not seen constant use like the rear and i replaced the rear because one joint was squeaking.

That there is 245,000 miles of original equipment part. never replaced during the vehicles life. gotta love it. if your is original i must insistently reccomend you get a strong u-joint tool set and a 1/2 minimum impact wrench to drive it to do the job. when it "starts" to break loose you will hear a large bang for each yoke axis you do. ifg a press is used i would go 4-ton at least but maybe 8 is better.

 

[slipping]

Thank you very much good sir! I'll keep this for sure. Its not squeaking or anything , wasn't sure if I should change. I have 186000+ so I just want to make sure all my stuff is straight. The PO wasn't kind to this hoe. I want to get new plugs wires cap belts. Going to get new k&n cai off amazon as well because I'm not fond of the one that's on it.

 

[SunlitComet]

if not bing or making noise just leave it for now. concentrate on below.

rotor: www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D465-Distributor-Ignition-Rotor/dp/B000BYGD2O/

cap: www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D329A-Distributor-Cap/dp/B000BYD3RC/

wires: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S2SRXC/

plugs: www.amazon.com/ACDelco-41-993-Professional-Iridium-Spark/dp/B000NWA6TU/

or: www.amazon.com/Autolite-XP605-Xtreme-Performance-Iridium/dp/B000ET5TIK/

autolites are good stuff.

belt: for 124A/140A unit w/ a/c: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C36BN0/

for 100A/105A unit w/ a/c: www.amazon.com/Goodyear-4060960-Gatorback-Poly-V-Belts/dp/B000C30J5Q/

unless damaged by external forces belt will last at least 100k miles.

fipk: www.amazon.com/57-3013-2-Fuel-Injection-Performance-Intake/dp/B000BR51LK/

 

[slipping]

Awesome thanks for the list. I will be ordering some in the morn. I already have the know and the spider you posted up in a link in my want list. Cool dude.

 

[SunlitComet]

act on the k&n now that is the lowest i have seen it lately. and the spider is on the high end of pricing for the last few week.

---------- Post added at 09:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 PM ----------

oops did not realize you had spider.

 

[19Yukon97]

Im in the process of doing ball joints on my truck... The uppers took me an hour to do. The lowers are a different story. I have a 4X4, so mine are pressed in bearings. I dont think the 2wd trucks have pressed in bearings. So you have should be fine on difficulty. The pressed in bearings are a poor design being it is very hard to press these in. Moog parts are top notch parts. I have replaced everything steering wise with moog parts. Dad's racecar has all mood parts. I actually snapped a duralast idler arm in half with a hammer. Had all the duralast parts in the truck, when that idler arm broke i took all the parts back and told them to give me Moog. lol

 

[slipping]

Im in the process of doing ball joints on my truck... The uppers took me an hour to do. The lowers are a different story. I have a 4X4, so mine are pressed in bearings. I dont think the 2wd trucks have pressed in bearings. So you have should be fine on difficulty. The pressed in bearings are a poor design being it is very hard to press these in. Moog parts are top notch parts. I have replaced everything steering wise with moog parts. Dad's racecar has all mood parts. I actually snapped a duralast idler arm in half with a hammer. Had all the duralast parts in the truck, when that idler arm broke i took all the parts back and told them to give me Moog. lol

I want a race car. Haha. OK thanks man!

 

[slipping]

Just checked mail. What is the proper gap for these babies?

 

[SunlitComet]

Preggapped at .060.

---------- Post added at 09:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 PM ----------

And burn that harbor freight flyer.

 

[slipping]

Preggapped at .060.

---------- Post added at 09:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 PM ----------

And burn that harbor freight flyer.

Haha yeah that always goes in the trash.

 

[imi4tth3w]

there is absolutely nothing wrong with harbor freight? i mean if you own a shop and need tools, stay far away, but for the average weekend mechanic, they are great.

as far as all your parts go, check out rock auto prices. if your a member at gmfs, they have a vendor section with a 5% off discount code.

I literally just finished replacing my inner/outer tie rods, pitman, idler arm, and idler assembly with moog parts. also did timken wheel bearings/hubs and just an autozone rebuilt steering gear/gear box.

 

[slipping]

I'll be ordering all my Moog stuff after Christmas when my drained funds come back.

I've had to use hf when right in the middle of something and either didn't have what I needed for the one time use or broke right in the middle because they are right down the street. I like my craftsman and snap on for home and work though.