need help identifying/naming rear frame part

[TMAN9]

Hi all! I have a 2002 Tahoe that i've owned since new, and like MANY others in the North East, it has the rust "cancer". It's not my my primary vehicle, but I like driving it, it only has 80K on it, and the interior is mint.... or i'd trash it. Well, I started hearing a "clunk" in the rear end, and it turns out to be a crack in a "bracket/shackle?" (not sure what is the correct term) that is welded to the top of the frame just in front of the rear tire, on the drivers side. It has a bolt/bushing that connects to a "bar" that runs rearward toward the rear axle. Need help with the terminology/names of the above parts. Not driving it till I repair.

Long story longer, I have a friend thats an expert welder, and I hoped to find a source for the the "bracket" (has to be welded to the frame), AND a new bushing/bolt (once again need correct name/ p/n). I searched "rear frame diagram" and "rear suspension diagram" for my year/model, but I can't find the parts/terms. I tried you tube too, to no luck. I know I have to drop the gas tank, and will get new straps for that, and if I'm going through all the trouble, I would like to replace the "bracket" on both sides. BTW, in addition to my welder buddy, I have access to a lift, cutting/grinding equipt., etc.

I'd go to the dealer and ask, but they'll probably just tell me i'm crazy, it's a 20yo truck, and to junk the truck.

IF my description doesn't make sense, let me know, and i'll snap some photos tomorrow & post.

Thanks in advance for helping out the new guy! -tom

 

[Rocket Man]

If it’s part of the frame which it must be since it’s welded, there’s not much use finding the name of it since nobody will sell that part. You’ll have to find one at a wrecking yard, cut it off, and weld it to yours. But if you have rust in the frame so bad that parts are breaking or cracking, I’m afraid to say you’re probably chasing your tail. It doesn’t matter that it only has 80k or the interior is mint, if the frame is cracking you’re pretty *******.

 

[Doubeleive]

sounds like you are describing the panhard bar, but pictures would be more help, like mark said though if it's rusting that bad other things are going to go, might be a death trap.

 

[TMAN9]

sounds like you are describing the panhard bar, but pictures would be more help, like mark said though if it's rusting that bad other things are going to go, might be a death trap.

Thank you both for your replies. I should have mentioned this is a station car. 3miles/day <30mph. I took a pic of the crack. Sorry for my lack of terminology.

if it’s a goner, it’s a goner. Anyone need a Vortec or interior in the North East?

Oh, pic taken just in front of rear drivers tire. Running boards top of pic.

Thanks again!

 

[Rocket Man]

So it’s on the bottom of the frame, not the top? That’s the lower control arm, it’s pretty important since the upper and lower control arms are what mount the rear differential to the frame and allow it to move up and down with the suspension. If that breaks completely your rear end will be flopping. Has your welding friend looked at it? You’d have to cut that off a donor vehicle or make one from scratch. It’s also possible he could just add reinforcement plates to both of the outsides and use a longer bolt. My concerns is if that one is bad, the other 3 locations where the control arms mount aren’t far behind. And the rest of the locations where other things bolt to the frame like the panhard bar mounts, shock mounts, etc might be ready to break too. If you just want to use it like you’re saying, driving it slow and only a few miles, I’d suggest just reinforcing it like I mentioned.

 

[TMAN9]

Thank you SO MUCH for the info.

Yes, sorry, I had it “upside down in my mind”…..oops.

My welder buddy (he welds trucks, lifts, plows, etc. for our town) did look under the truck, albeit not on a lift. He seemed to think we could source those “brackets” (left & right).
We will check all connection points for the rear end. I certainly don’t want my rear ending going bye bye. Which is why I’m NOT driving it ATM.

He did also mention welding plates on both sides.

I will call local junk yards, and stop searching on he NET for after market replacements that don’t exist.

Poor girl, (many Hunting trips in NY/Maine). “Back up vehicles” too:

 

[Doubeleive]

if you can't find a good donor then cut it off and take it to a machine shop and have a copy made a halfway decent shop can make something up easy, I'm fortunate enough to have one here in town that can make dam near anything.

 

[avalonandl]

Move it to correct section.

 

[TMAN9]

Sorry, but can you name the “correct section”. I thought!”general” would apply. my bad

 

[Rocket Man]

Sorry, but can you name the “correct section”. I thought!”general” would apply. my bad

You’re in the 2021+ section. @NathanJax can you or someone move it to the 2000-2006 section?

 

[TollKeeper]

You might see if VehCor on youtube is willing to do a frame swap. Might cost a penny, but if the body, engine, interior, are worth it..

He has done it before on his own projects, maybe he can do it..

 

[TrueAt1stLight]

To make this relevant to this sub-forum: “How are your lifters???” “Mine,” might I share: “Pretty f’ed up’!”

 

[NathanJax]

Sorry, but can you name the “correct section”. I thought!”general” would apply. my bad

You posted in the 2021+ general section. He wasn't talking about the "general" section as much as the year, since it's a different frame. I moved it to the proper year and put it in the "exterior" section as it has to do with the exterior of the vehicle.

 

[TMAN9]

Just a wrap up:

1st. Sorry I posted in the incorrect forum, and thank for moving my thread to the correct forum/sub forum.

2nd. $250’worth of
Parts (new, Moog upper and lower control arms, new bolts and nuts, from the GM parts store), AND some steel plates (8 to be exact), and voila ………. A fixed Tahoe. I dare say my Tahoe rear end is STRONGER than factory. Of course a lot of sweat equity.

Here’s a photo of the same side of the truck that was in the previous (cracked) photo on this thread. I took it just now (at night). Overall, I’m a happy camper. It pays to know a good welder.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just a wrap up:

1st. Sorry I posted in the incorrect forum, and thank for moving my thread to the correct forum/sub forum.

2nd. $250’worth of
Parts (new, Moog upper and lower control arms, new bolts and nuts, from the GM parts store), AND some steel plates (8 to be exact), and voila ………. A fixed Tahoe. I dare say my Tahoe rear end is STRONGER than factory. Of course a lot of sweat equity.

Here’s a photo of the same side of the truck that was in the previous (cracked) photo on this thread. I took it just now (at night). Overall, I’m a happy camper. It pays to know a good welder.

That’s awesome, glad you got it fixed!

 

[TMAN9]

Thanks Rocket Man, I’m very happy with the way it turned out!

 

[DBacon]

Just discovered this thread. Did the same with my 2007 Yukon. Son-in-Law donated it to me, and it had broken completely. He still drove it from repair shop to repair shop, no one wanted the job. Says it drove OK, just had this "clunk" sound. The rear end is still attached by three trailing arms, so it didn't change much.
My Son is the Senior Welding Engineer at a well-known prototype automotive plant in SE Mich, and I agree "It pays to know a good welder". He did just the driver's side, and used heavy plates also. I still don't have the tank back in, heavy rust on all the fittings causing difficulties, but I am sure it will last a long time.