My 07 Denali XL 'build'/Check Engine Lights/Questions

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carrmann

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Hey all! Located in central florida, just north of Orlando. I just bought a 2007 Yukon XL Denali. 161k miles, AWD/6.2/6spd. This is for my 'rebuild'/repair thread haha. It needs a lot of TLC, but the body is mint(I'm from the north, to ME its mint anyways. Zero rust, has typical paint fade but otherwise its G2G), and it runs/drives pretty well.

The only 'major' concern initially for me is that after driving for a while (I'd say about 20-30 mins), it will stumble and die coming to a stop at a traffic light (dies at the light or just before at like 2 mph). It is then hard as hell to get started. it has done it 3 times(oil was near the lowest dot on dipstick, I've added about a 1/2 quart of lucas), the last time I got it started fast by holding pedal to floor then playing with throttle to keep it running. When its been running for 15 or so mins oil pressure gets down to the 10-psi range especially when idling at a light though press light doesn't illuminate.

This is not my primary vehicle, and is planned to be a 'family/friends' family trip type of vehicle. So I'll be taking my time with these repairs lol.

I did do an intro post a bit back. Only had a couple codes via my basic scan tool. So I got a tech 2 scanner to find all the codes.
Heated seats (front seats) dont work (light turns on then off after apprx 30 secs), power seats dont work (drivers side clicks doesnt move, pass side doesnt do anything). Pedal adjust button clicks but doesnt move. Pass side window front/rear dont work (both just click). I found a disconnected wire I cant find the connection for by the battery (large 2 prong plug), and a melted wire that was tucked underneath the battery, and I will try and post a picture of).

I cant connect a new key fob, gets to the point where you click the check mark to 'learn' and nothing happens, it just stays there. Check mark button works otherwise no prob. Had a locksmith attempt with his tool as well, no luck. It does have a viper alarm system installed (I would much prefer the factory, theft isnt really an issue). .

I have lights for check engine, abs, traction control, stabilitrack, service suspension, and service rear park aid.
It has 34 DTCs in total. I have experience as a mechanic, but not as a professional. What does symptom mean to the right of the code #? Anything else I should grab? I was told to grab history as well, I need to do that.

P0455 (Symptom 00), P0430 (Symptom 00), P0420 (Symptom 00), P0011(Sym 00)

C0561(Sym 71), C0045 (Sym 00)

U0184(Sym 00)(B1095, B1085, B1055, B1045, B1035, B1025 are for Amplifier as it has an aftermarket head-unit I'm assuming)

U0214 (Sym 00), B0961 (Sym 06),

B2430 (Sym 0C), B2180 (Sym 0C), B2425(Sym 0C), B1935 (Sym 0C), B1850(Sym 01), B2365(Sym 06), B3920(Sym 02). All seat related codes

B1370 (Sym 06), B1600 (Sym 02), , B1011(Sym 71), B1544
C0580(Sym 04, Sym 01), C0575(Sym 04, 01), U0208(Sym 00), B3060 (Sym 00), B1544 (Sym 04)

Sorry for the lengthy post!! I can post the details of each code if thats better. Any help is much appreciated as I tackle this, and handle it piece by piece.
 
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mattbta

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Powertrain codes you posted:

P0455 - massive Evap system leak
P0420/P0430 - catalyst efficiency low
P0011 - camshaft position

Seems like you might need to launch the parts cannon. I’d start with oxygen sensors both banks and camshaft position sensor. Follow that with a crank/cam correlation procedure via scan tool. Hopefully all you need here are sensors and not new catalytic converters.

The evap system might need a full replacement but I think folks can use a smoke test to try and find the leak. Tons of threads on evap on this forum.

The other codes are body related and shouldn’t affect the running of the motor but others will correct me if I’m wrong.
 
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carrmann

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Powertrain codes you posted:

P0455 - massive Evap system leak
P0420/P0430 - catalyst efficiency low
P0011 - camshaft position

Seems like you might need to launch the parts cannon. I’d start with oxygen sensors both banks and camshaft position sensor. Follow that with a crank/cam correlation procedure via scan tool. Hopefully all you need here are sensors and not new catalytic converters.

The evap system might need a full replacement but I think folks can use a smoke test to try and find the leak. Tons of threads on evap on this forum.

The other codes are body related and shouldn’t affect the running of the motor but others will correct me if I’m wrong.
Thanks! I have a tech 2 scanner so as I figure out how to use it I'll be good in that regard. Not going to do the parts cannon thing lol. All 4 02s seem to be going up/down appropriately based on rpm etc
No issue with cats here in FL, I can just gut them if needed.
 

breds2k

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With oil pressure in the 10's you need to get infront of that asap as thats a 6.2L killer. Youll need to replace the O ring on the oil pickup tube which is the most common way these engines received reduce oil pressure in the 5-15psi range. If you have zero you will have pump/sensor problems but when the o ring fails it allows air into the pickup tube and operates at about 25% hence the 5-15psi oil pressure numbers. Not a fun job on a 4wd also this kills 07-08 trucks alot because for some reason they never recieved oil pressure gauges when 99-06 trucks and 09+ trucks did. so 10 psi of oil pressure will cause heavy wear but not enough to trip the low oil pressure light until its too late in many cases.
 

Geotrash

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With oil pressure in the 10's you need to get infront of that asap as thats a 6.2L killer. Youll need to replace the O ring on the oil pickup tube which is the most common way these engines received reduce oil pressure in the 5-15psi range. If you have zero you will have pump/sensor problems but when the o ring fails it allows air into the pickup tube and operates at about 25% hence the 5-15psi oil pressure numbers. Not a fun job on a 4wd also this kills 07-08 trucks alot because for some reason they never recieved oil pressure gauges when 99-06 trucks and 09+ trucks did. so 10 psi of oil pressure will cause heavy wear but not enough to trip the low oil pressure light until its too late in many cases.
+1.

To the OP, you can drop the oil pan without removing the front diff. Gotta remove the crossmember, drop the steering rack and let it hang from the tie rods, drop the pax side of the diff by loosening the mounting bolts on that side and removing the 6 CV axle bolts and it will hang down low enough to get the oil pan off. I can do the oil pan now on an AWD in about 3 hours. An air impact wrench is the killer tool for this job, IMHO.

The Denalis have an oil pressure gauge. It's the Escalades that don't.
 
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carrmann

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I do have an oil pressure gauge, but was unsure what the actual number is. Im at 13 psi at 538 RPM (seems low to me??) with the engine fully up to operating temp etc.
I guess I'll try the o-rings in the intake valley first until I have time to do the oil pickup tube o-ring. Or does the intake valley o-rings not help at all?
A friend mentioned a mellings oil-tube bracket/brace? Or a high flow oil pump (should I while Im in there?)
 

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Geotrash

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I do have an oil pressure gauge, but was unsure what the actual number is. Im at 13 psi at 538 RPM (seems low to me??) with the engine fully up to operating temp etc.
I guess I'll try the o-rings in the intake valley first until I have time to do the oil pickup tube o-ring. Or does the intake valley o-rings not help at all?
A friend mentioned a mellings oil-tube bracket/brace? Or a high flow oil pump (should I while Im in there?)
The valley pan is a likely source of oil pressure bleed-off, but not as likely as the pickup tube O-ring. No need for the brace or a new pump, just the o-ring.
 
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carrmann

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The valley pan is a likely source of oil pressure bleed-off, but not as likely as the pickup tube O-ring. No need for the brace or a new pump, just the o-ring.
ok thank you. No reason to change the pump while in there? How long do they normally last?
Anyone know what these 2 connectors are? 3 photos, 2 connectors at diff angles.
 

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Geotrash

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ok thank you. No reason to change the pump while in there? How long do they normally last?
Anyone know what these 2 connectors are? 3 photos, 2 connectors at diff angles.
To change the pump is probably another half a day's worth of work. Gotta pull the timing chain off, which means the radiator's gotta come out, the crank pulley has to come off, the VVT actuator has to come off... it's a whole chain of events that gets put into motion that you don't have to mess with when you just change the o-ring. The oil pump will last the life of the engine as long as no shrapnel from a lifter failure or anything else takes it out.

No idea on the connectors but I'm sure someone will. Looks pretty gnarly though!
 
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carrmann

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To change the pump is probably another half a day's worth of work. Gotta pull the timing chain off, which means the radiator's gotta come out, the crank pulley has to come off, the VVT actuator has to come off... it's a whole chain of events that gets put into motion that you don't have to mess with when you just change the o-ring. The oil pump will last the life of the engine as long as no shrapnel from a lifter failure or anything else takes it out.

No idea on the connectors but I'm sure someone will. Looks pretty gnarly though!
oh!! yea I don't want to do that lol.
 
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