More MagnaRide delete questions

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wreedps

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Let us know what you decide to go with and any ride quality updates and photos are a bonus.

Happy Holidays


I ordered the rear foxes and I am going to order the Shock Sim simulators .

problem i have is i just replaced the fronts about a year and and they are still good. I am collecting all the parts because next time they blow again they are getting deleted.

my father just retired and wants to keep this Tahoe. Replacing mag shocks every 50k @ 300/ shock or something like that isn't going to fly
 

Boatguy272

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Hopefully some aftermarket company will step up. Like on my DD Denali has the Arnott air ride conversion instead of dropping the cash for GM shocks and pump.
 

1denali5

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Hey I had the same issues with my 15 Denali it is factory height but rode horrible we first tried to re program the mag shocks that did not work I replaced them with a new set of Acdelco mag shocks found the set for. 900 with shipping trucks rides amazing now
 
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00Bullitt

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Ok, Xineering full delete kit on the way along with Fox front struts (985-02-018). Not sure what I wanna do with the rear yet.....Fox's to match or AC Delco non-magnetic air rears.

Will circle back once the front is done. Going to put the rear shock resistors on the rear to start and leave the compressor connected. We tow a 4500# boat so the air level is sorta nice, but kinda want matching Fox on all 4 corners.
 

olyelr

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Ok, Xineering full delete kit on the way along with Fox front struts (985-02-018). Not sure what I wanna do with the rear yet.....Fox's to match or AC Delco non-magnetic air rears.

Will circle back once the front is done. Going to put the rear shock resistors on the rear to start and leave the compressor connected. We tow a 4500# boat so the air level is sorta nice, but kinda want matching Fox on all 4 corners.

yea, if you are gonna delete the rear air then I would put a set of fox shocks back there. I kept the air shocks... come in too handy imo.

let us know how much lift you end up getting with the fox struts up front. Pretty sure I got over 3” at the preset location.
 
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00Bullitt

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Ok, folks....installed the Xineering delete resistors. Lemme tell ya.....ride is superb! Havent installed the Fox struts yet as I wanted to see what a difference just taking the electric current away from the MRC was. Left my rear ride sensors connected so that my auto level still works. Pulled my trailer today and it leveled right up.

I can highly recommend just doing the resistor delete for ride correction; very plush. Literally went from horse and buggy to the hooptie float. Curious as to how much change I see with the Fox struts.
 
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Oh Kee Pah

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Ok, folks....installed the Xineering delete resistors. Lemme tell ya.....ride is superb! Havent installed the Fox struts yet as I wanted to see what a difference just taking the electric current away from the MRC was. Left my rear ride sensors connected so that my auto level still works. Pulled my trailer today and it leveled right up.

I can highly recommend just doing the resistor delete for ride correction; very plush. Literally went from horse and buggy to the hooptie float. Curious as to how much change I see with the Fox struts.


Great to know! Thank you.
I've seen many folks here in the TYF looking for answers to a smoother ride. You've given people a great place to start. I have NOT read of anyone just trying the MRC delete sensors and keeping the Mag ride setup.

I would recommend the ride height sensor trim procedure.
Any Chevy dealer should be able to run the module or you can speak with Xineering and they can help you out. This computer module procedure just "locks" in your new voltage values for the computer.
However; if you think you are going to change to the Fox's then I would wait until those are installed.

Happy trails.
 

SteveMansur

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I have a 2015 Tahoe LTZ (100k miles, so far out of warranty). It has the MagnaRide on all 4 corners with the air assist rear; Z95 I think.
The truck has a 3" Rough Country lift and 305/55/20's. At one point in time, it rode decent/acceptable considering the lift. The ride height sensors were properly relocated. Now, its always hit or miss.
Sometimes it starts out stiff, almost like the shocks are locked up - like horse and buggy rocking down the road feel. Other times its intermittent. Sometimes I will cross a bridge on the highway and it has that smooth bounce and floats across - you know, like its supposed to; others it hits so stiff it almost gets uncontrollable in a rock back and forth buggy like feel. Most every morning or the first time I drive it during the day, it feels like its on light rumble strips and then calms down after a few miles and bumps later. This is not the torque converter clutch issue folks speak of, as that was a separate issue and I can easily tell between the two now that it has occurred and been fixed.

I'm sure GM had the best of intentions with MagnaRide as it sounds good on paper, but man, its almost dangerous now. I want it OFF of that truck and I'm trying to figure the best possible solution.

I was considering the Rancho RS999901 Quicklift front struts that come pre-assembled with springs. That way I do not have to disassemble the factory strut and can just remove it and reinstall the new assembly.
They list a non standard qualifier that they are for use on trucks without Z95 MaganRide and/or self leveling rear.

I assume the above is just because of the sensors that need to be bypassed? Does anyone have experience? I know I will need to get the resistors that counter the DTC's and negative effects they cause.
Xineering Electronics sells a bypass kit; although pricey at nearly $500. Does anyone know of a more cost effective solution or is the Xineering kit the way to go for bypassing the shock and ride height sensors?

Also, given I have the magnetic self leveling rear, should I buy the AC Delco non magnetic self leveling shocks as to maintain that capability or just pull it all off and put the RS9000X on the rear?

Last scenario....would just buying the Xineering bypass kit produce satisfactory results by removing any electrical current to the Magnaride Shocks? My assumption says yes, but the ride may be too soft.
Has anyone gone this route prior to replacing Magnetic shocks with non-magnetic variants?

I've read alot of threads on this topic, but still have not arrived at any firm answers based on others' prior experience.

Any help is appreciated!

From experience, the best thing to do in order to remove magnaride and keep the truck handling like stock is to get some oem springs and top mounts along with a lofted strut (bilstein 5100 / eibach/ rancho) and put it all together along with a set of ebay resistors to cancle the suspension warning light. You can also go for the bilstien 6112 series which has been in development for many years but is still new. These come with springs so you'll need a top mount and you're good to go.
 

rockstar143

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So I'm not crazy...
sold an 04 XL that rode GREAT
for a 15 LTZ and holy lord is the front rough going over bumps.
I might delete and see how it rides...I wonder if it's the physical struts OR
the current being fed to them. I have a service suspension warning and
am waiting on a sensor to come in from GM whenever they decide to stop
their strike. Small dealer I bought it from was stand up as hell and ordered
that and the 2nd row Monitor ribbon for me since they were failed.

I am looking forward to addressing the suspension.
I might just go unplug the damn thing now to see how the thing
rides. Maybe I'll ask him to cancel the order for the sensor and just
have him put that money toward a delete kit. $450 is a bit steep...I guess
I'd only need to do the front for now and can add the rear later if needed.
The ebay $30 for all 4 resistors is pretty cheap...if I could find what male/female
ends solder on that would be the most cost effective way, obviously.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html

I do like to support small business and forum enthusiasts/vendors though.
 

rockstar143

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I just went outside and unplugged all things magnaride up front and my goodness does
the car drive so much better without that input. Like, shocks are fine...don't need it...feels
how smooth and happy like I remember my 04 feeling going over bumps. I'll be looking into
deleting for sure.
 

olyelr

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I just went outside and unplugged all things magnaride up front and my goodness does
the car drive so much better without that input. Like, shocks are fine...don't need it...feels
how smooth and happy like I remember my 04 feeling going over bumps. I'll be looking into
deleting for sure.

well, sounds to me like you just deleted it already LOL.

never thought about unplugging the damn things.... we slammed around in my wifes denali for about 5000 miles before I finally swapped em out. Should have just unplugged the damn things!
 

Edward Medina

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I just went outside and unplugged all things magnaride up front and my goodness does
the car drive so much better without that input. Like, shocks are fine...don't need it...feels
how smooth and happy like I remember my 04 feeling going over bumps. I'll be looking into
deleting for sure.
After you unplugged all the sensors, did you get any codes on dash? “Service suspension” or anything like that?
 

olyelr

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Yea you will definitely get a service suspension code. Your vehicle will also be limited to 85 mph.
 

DirtyBlackHoe

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From experience, the best thing to do in order to remove magnaride and keep the truck handling like stock is to get some oem springs and top mounts along with a lofted strut (bilstein 5100 / eibach/ rancho) and put it all together along with a set of ebay resistors to cancle the suspension warning light. You can also go for the bilstien 6112 series which has been in development for many years but is still new. These come with springs so you'll need a top mount and you're good to go.
Why do you need to change the OEM springs? This is the first I have heard about this?

Also do you have a part number for the top mounts that need to be ordered?
 

ThisIsLivin

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I just replaced my OEM Magneride struts/shocks with units from Arnott SK3354 and AS3066. They maintain the air leveling and have a built in resistor that fools the ride control. They were $1300 at Rockauto. The shock is an Eibach unit and the ride is incredible. I wish I knew about these when the truck was new, I would have replaced them then.
 

olyelr

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I just replaced my OEM Magneride struts/shocks with units from Arnott SK3354 and AS3066. They maintain the air leveling and have a built in resistor that fools the ride control. They were $1300 at Rockauto. The shock is an Eibach unit and the ride is incredible. I wish I knew about these when the truck was new, I would have replaced them then.


Great to hear!

The rear air shocks just showed up for my wifes denali. Cant wait to get these babies on!

36CD3253-86E4-4BAB-B269-56F4893C77C1.jpeg
 

Thuhreb

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Just got a front resistor kit in. I'm going to first try just installing that before I purchase strut assemblies & see how the ride is. When I look at front strut assemblies that aren't for magnaride suspensions, they all also mention something like this - without Magnetic Ride Control Suspension; Except Electronic Adjustable Suspension; without 22 in Wheels.

Problem is I'm working with a 2015 Yukon Denali with 22" factory wheels. I don't know if it's saying that because having 22" wheels means the vehicle must have magnaride so they don't want folks to purchase the wrong part or if there's actually going to be a compatibility issue in my case.
Thoughts?

Preferably, I'd like to get a set of strut assemblies that also provide approx 2" lift. Looking for recommendations.
 

Oh Kee Pah

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Just got a front resistor kit in. I'm going to first try just installing that before I purchase strut assemblies & see how the ride is. When I look at front strut assemblies that aren't for magnaride suspensions, they all also mention something like this - without Magnetic Ride Control Suspension; Except Electronic Adjustable Suspension; without 22 in Wheels.

Problem is I'm working with a 2015 Yukon Denali with 22" factory wheels. I don't know if it's saying that because having 22" wheels means the vehicle must have magnaride so they don't want folks to purchase the wrong part or if there's actually going to be a compatibility issue in my case.
Thoughts?

Preferably, I'd like to get a set of strut assemblies that also provide approx 2" lift. Looking for recommendations.




They are mentioning the "WITHOUT MAGNERIDE CONTROL" so that people do not purchase an incorrect strut/coil assembly to replace their magneride struts. The magneride struts literally "plug in" at the top of the strut assembly. I'm guessing this is where your resistors may be installed...
FYI - when you're doing your searching for parts, DO NOT enter LTZ as your trim, use LT. Basically, with the resistors installed, the magneride is "deleted" up front and you've gone passive, just like the LT and LS trims.

Once you've bypassed the computer with your resistor kit, you can put on any passive strut/coil combo that fits the 2015-2020 Tahoe/Yukon/Eskie models up front.
The LTZ and Denali can come with 22" wheels - specs on the door sticker: 22" diam x 9" width and 20" diam x 9" width are GM OE wheel sizes.

I don't think you really would want to go over a 22" wheel, even with a 2"+ level up front. You will have very minimal sidewall running and with the 2"+ level the front struts will be riding rough compared to factory.

My recommendation for the 2"+ front level, improved ride quality and overall product quality: Fox 2.0 Adjustable Coilovers (0-2" lift) or Fox 2.5 Coilovers w/Remote Reservoir
You can also look at a company called Freedom Off-Road out of SC. The owner has a Tahoe and has his vehicle lifted up with their products.
They have several different front strut assemblies (offering increased ride height) as well as an 0-4" adjustable coilover.
I currently am running their UCA's for 2-4" lift and have been very pleased so far.

Fox Shocks Part #985-02-018
https://www.ridefox.com/product.php...C&model=Sierra+1500+&year=2018&position=Front
OR https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/fox-2-0-performance-series-coilovers-985-02-018

Freedom Off-Road Shocks
https://www.freedomoffroadusa.com/shocks.html
 

charles dodd

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look at Monroe 139104 strut. with the 22" wheel you have to be sure the tire clears the plate at the bottom of the spring on the strut. you can get a tire with a smaller outside diameter. ( must change all four at the same time.) it does alter the speedometer reading slightly. check this site; https://tiresize.com/comparison/ . also look at :
.
 

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