Mikeyss Build Thread

[Rocket Man]

Can you post the video when you get a chance, just so we can see the moment? That had to be pretty violent.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Damn. That sucks and must have been helluva hole. I'm glad you kept it under control. That could've been way worse. Hopefully they'll cover your repairs.

 

[Fosscore]

Good job keeping it under control. Hopefully you can get it claimed out somehow.

 

[mikeyss]

Can you post the video when you get a chance, just so we can see the moment? That had to be pretty violent.

I will post it once I get the camera back. I only took overnight essentials out, tomorrow once I meet the dealership it got towed to, I'll pick up my cam

 

[adventurenali92]

Ouch!! Oh man what a day! Glad you’re ok though!

 

[swathdiver]

Had a bad day today... Was travelling back from NC Outer Banks back home to Colorado... And hit a huge pot hole in Topeka, Kansas. It took out my driver's side lower ball joint, may have damaged the CV axle, may have taken out the strut, and it DESTROYED the wheel. These are OEM Sierra all terrain wheels I bought a few years ago, so matching up one should be fun. I'm 600 miles from home, I'm incredibly frustrated, as I replaced EVERYTHING a few years ago to prevent this.

View attachment 353582View attachment 353583

Looks like the Michelin held up fine too! Tire is tougher than the wheel! Or is it?

 

[mikeyss]

Looks like the Michelin held up fine too! Tire is tougher than the wheel! Or is it?

The Michelin is the ONLY thing that looks like it is not damaged. The wheel is definitely f*cked, the lower control arm ate into the inside of the wheel, the CV axle is trash because I can see grease slinged onto the inside of the wheel. I wish I could have gotten a few more pics, but I was only 5' off of I-70 with cars flying by at 75-80mph, I feared for my life, lol

 

[swathdiver]

The Michelin is the ONLY thing that looks like it is not damaged. The wheel is definitely f*cked, the lower control arm ate into the inside of the wheel, the CV axle is trash because I can see grease slinged onto the inside of the wheel. I wish I could have gotten a few more pics, but I was only 5' off of I-70 with cars flying by at 75-80mph, I feared for my life, lol

Glad you are ok man, get more pics later. Is it going to be towed home for repair or fixed near the crash site?

 

[mikeyss]

Glad you are ok man, get more pics later. Is it going to be towed home for repair or fixed near the crash site?

Since I'm 600 miles from home, I'll have them make it drive-able, and have them throw the spare tire on it. I'll drive it home and then go from there.

*Members Beware*

Be CAREFUL of what you're buying from RockAuto.... I replaced all of my front end stuff from them, the parts SAID Acdelco... But I didn't realize that they sell acdelco 'professional' which is s*it quality and it isn't true genuine parts from GM. I didn't research this when I spent 2k on the front suspension 3 years ago. I already had both front hubs fail under 10k mileage, which I THOUGHT were genuine parts, and now this lower control arm issue. I literally WASTED money and time on INFERIOR parts that I thought I was buying the real deal, while all I was buying crap. I do my own work and I THOUGHT I had genuine parts that would last as long as the OEM stuff....

 

[swathdiver]

Since I'm 600 miles from home, I'll have them make it drive-able, and have them throw the spare tire on it. I'll drive it home and then go from there.

*Members Beware*

Be CAREFUL of what you're buying from RockAuto.... I replaced all of my front end stuff from them, the parts SAID Acdelco... But I didn't realize that they sell acdelco 'professional' which is s*it quality and it isn't true genuine parts from GM. I didn't research this when I spent 2k on the front suspension 3 years ago. I already had both front hubs fail under 10k mileage, which I THOUGHT were genuine parts, and now this lower control arm issue. I literally WASTED money and time on INFERIOR parts that I thought I was buying the real deal, while all I was buying crap. I do my own work and I THOUGHT I had genuine parts that would last as long as the OEM stuff....

Often times ACDelco Professional parts also has a GM part number but that is still not a GM OE part. Many GM OE parts carry a different ACDelco number. It takes a lot of research to be certain. I go to GMPartsDirect and GMPartsGiant and check those numbers against ACDelco's Parts Catalog and RockAuto.

For example:

Control Arm, Lower, Driver's Side
GM OE = 20869201
ACDelco Professional = 45D2471 which is also GM 19313224 which is also Moog CK620956

 

[Rocket Man]

Since I'm 600 miles from home, I'll have them make it drive-able, and have them throw the spare tire on it. I'll drive it home and then go from there.

*Members Beware*

Be CAREFUL of what you're buying from RockAuto.... I replaced all of my front end stuff from them, the parts SAID Acdelco... But I didn't realize that they sell acdelco 'professional' which is s*it quality and it isn't true genuine parts from GM. I didn't research this when I spent 2k on the front suspension 3 years ago. I already had both front hubs fail under 10k mileage, which I THOUGHT were genuine parts, and now this lower control arm issue. I literally WASTED money and time on INFERIOR parts that I thought I was buying the real deal, while all I was buying crap. I do my own work and I THOUGHT I had genuine parts that would last as long as the OEM stuff....

The Advantage line is GM’s budget line. They’re only available as an alternative to cheap knockoffs which they actually are themselves. The Professional is the middle grade ACDelco line but they’re not OE which is the upper level.

 

[mikeyss]

The Advantage line is GM’s budget line. They’re only available as an alternative to cheap knockoffs which they actually are themselves. The Professional is the middle grade ACDelco line but they’re not OE which is the upper level.

I wish I knew this a few years ago.... I feel like I learned the hard way. Oh and btw... Don't consider the 'professional grade' as middle grade of acdelco, it's junk. Having 2 hubs fail and now a lower ball joint (I bought the entire lower control arms originally) fail, these parts are JUNK!! As soon as it's home, I'll again have to replace my UCA's because I just found they are also the S*it 'professional' grade as well. How soon will these fail and roll my tires up in to the fenders?!! I hate that I was so naive when I bought all these s*itty parts from rockauto

 

[swathdiver]

I wish I knew this a few years ago.... I feel like I learned the hard way. Oh and btw... Don't consider the 'professional grade' as middle grade of acdelco, it's junk. Having 2 hubs fail and now a lower ball joint (I bought the entire lower control arms originally) fail, these parts are JUNK!! As soon as it's home, I'll again have to replace my UCA's because I just found they are also the S*it 'professional' grade as well. How soon will these fail and roll my tires up in to the fenders?!! I hate that I was so naive when I bought all these s*itty parts from rockauto

When doing my research, the ACDelco Professional and CK Moog controls arms were well thought of by folks here and lasted about 80K miles, very few reached 100K, most who even wore theirs out went at least 50K.

The ball joint is designed to fail so as not to transfer more energy to the passengers in the event of an accident.

When your hubs were replaced, did they use a new spindle nut and torque it to 177 foot pounds? When folks don't torque them down right, they fail soon after.

 

[mikeyss]

When doing my research, the ACDelco Professional and CK Moog controls arms were well thought of by folks here and lasted about 80K miles, very few reached 100K, most who even wore theirs out went at least 50K.

The ball joint is designed to fail so as not to transfer more energy to the passengers in the event of an accident.

When your hubs were replaced, did they use a new spindle nut and torque it to 177 foot pounds? When folks don't torque them down right, they fail soon after.

You asked me this before, and yes, I used 177 or 175..something like that, BOTH times I replaced them. The 'professional grade' ball joints have less than 10k on them and here I am, stranded with a broken one. I put 60 miles a week on it, and take up to 2 summer trips in it. This vehicle is pretty much pampered, other than the occasional quick 0-60mph fun

 

[Tonyrodz]

Sux! Hopefully you'll be up and running asap.

 

[mikeyss]

Sux! Hopefully you'll be up and running asap.

I had it towed to a GM dealer here in Topeka, so hopefully they either have a lower ball joint for a aluminum lower control arm, or have an entire arm in stock.

 

[Rocket Man]

You asked me this before, and yes, I used 177 or 175..something like that, BOTH times I replaced them. The 'professional grade' ball joints have less than 10k on them and here I am, stranded with a broken one. I put 60 miles a week on it, and take up to 2 summer trips in it. This vehicle is pretty much pampered, other than the occasional quick 0-60mph fun

But didn’t it break when you hit a big pothole on the freeway? Maybe that’s what’s supposed to happen, kinda like James was saying?

 

[mikeyss]

But didn’t it break when you hit a big pothole on the freeway? Maybe that’s what’s supposed to happen, kinda like James was saying?

But didn’t it break when you hit a big pothole on the freeway? Maybe that’s what’s supposed to happen, kinda like James was saying?

I couldn't see exactly where the lower BJ broke. The Tahoe was pretty much laying on the ground, and there was crazy traffic next to me and was unsafe to examine. What I could see is the lower control arm was laying inside of the wheel, grease slung all over, and HUGE gouges on the inside of the wheel. I can't see where the hubs or their torque specs help in this situation. These ball joints have less than 10k on them.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Your rim might be repairable if it's in the inner barrel.

 

[mikeyss]

Your rim might be repairable if it's in the inner barrel.

I'll get a pic for you tomorrow, but the rim is totally f*ucked. The LCA made sure of that, lol