Lower Control Arm Bushings

[Tahoe_96]

So my local Firestone says my bushing need replaced. So I figured I would do it myself.

My Chiltons book says they mine cannot be replaced and that the whole lower control arm has to be replaced. But I cannot find a lower control arm for my Tahoe.

1996 Tahoe LT 4x4

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I plan on replacing all the following during this process.

pitman arm
idler arm
upper control arm bushing and ball joint

 

[Rangel]

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php

 

[SunlitComet]

The shells are likely welded in but you should be able to press the bushing out. My complete vehicle kit from energy suspension even includes the top and bottom set. Stores even sell them.

 

[arveetek]

I just ordered and received a set of upper and lower control arm bushings for my '95 4wd, so yes, they are definitely available.

I will be replacing everything on the front end next week. I'll let you know how it goes.

Casey

 

[Tahoe_96]

I just ordered and received a set of upper and lower control arm bushings for my '95 4wd, so yes, they are definitely available.

I will be replacing everything on the front end next week. I'll let you know how it goes.

Casey

I plan on replacing my idler and pitman arm and lower control arm bushings.
Any tips on what you have most problem with would be greatly appreciated

---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:10 PM ----------

Yeh I ordered bushing before I read the book so I got a little scared.

Bushings: MOOG K6329
Idler: TRW 190142
Pitman: TRW 190121

 

[SunlitComet]

moog parts for sure. They do a better job of making problem solvers compared to private label house brand stuff. You have a 4wd so I think your biggest issue will be the pitman arm. Not only is it very difficult or near impossible to get a good puller on it if needed. you will also have to mange putting a 175#'s of torque on the nut during install.

 

[Tahoe_96]

moog parts for sure. They do a better job of making problem solvers compared to private label house brand stuff. You have a 4wd so I think your biggest issue will be the pitman arm. Not only is it very difficult or near impossible to get a good puller on it if needed. you will also have to mange putting a 175#'s of torque on the nut during install.

You are correct I spent all day trying to get the pitman arm to release from the drag link and I was unsuccessful so far. Why does it require that much torque.

 

[SunlitComet]

Removal of the pitman arm from the center link should not be difficult with a pickle fork. Only need about 40lbs to tighten the nut holding the pitman arm to center link on afterwards. Torque on the nut holding the pitman arm on the gearbox would be much higher as it has a lot of rotational torque put on it from steering actuation. High torque on the nut keeps it from coming loose.

 

[arveetek]

I plan on replacing my idler and pitman arm and lower control arm bushings.
Any tips on what you have most problem with would be greatly appreciated

When replacing the pitman arm, make sure to have a quality pitman arm puller. Also, to gain access to it, remove the three bolts holding the steering gear box to the frame, and then drop it down just enough to get the puller on it. On my 2 door, there is a crossmember that is welded in place just under the pitman arm that prevents access to it without moving the gear box.

The control arm bushings are a real pain to replace. I had access to a 20 ton hydraulic press, and it was still a lot of work. If you don't have a good press, plan on taking the control arms to a shop who can press the old bushings out and the new ones in.

Casey

 

[Tahoe_96]

so finally got it all done. replaced the idler and pitman arm myself

paid a local mechanic $500 to install my lower bushing and ball joints. really glad I did after hear how much trouble he had with the bushings