Looking at buying this 2004

[YukonLover]

Hey guys, found a relatively clean and affordable 2004 XL. Its a few hours away from me. Its got a 5.3L and about 240K. The idle RPM along with the IDLE and under load OIL PSI readings. These shown videos with readings are all from the seller and gauges I haven't touched the truck yet. I realize gauges can be wrong, especially ones that are 20 years old. But the readings are still there, and the motor does sound loud. These motors are all low idlers, ive never seen an idle above 600, most around 400-500 range. This dude is sitting at like 900 at idle. Oil psi at idle is like normal high, warm is like 55-60 PSI, undler laod its dropped to 45 and average of 50-65 PSI. He was at idle in one clip, in park raised the RPMS, and the oil sending unit displayed 80 PSI and dropped after he left off the gas.

I am afraid with high idle, and high RPM we could be looking at blocked oil passages or lifter issues. But I don't hear the lifter in the videos. I attached the links to the videos, what do you guys think?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XZml7uM2OFDhVXeNUJPH3LPy-fPsUJfk/view?usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XbjDoT-_86QU0ilKxSMoSBQKXUKNmNlP/view?usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Xbz7Ie796sVSVJaOTOgPxz8lp9fskFt8/view?usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XlvgeWTy8prIhGWswhQ9kpvXFxWQ6TXz/view?usp=drive_link

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XpbtdyTXLk5FHD3GmNJXBT_dgYiiDMMO/view?usp=drive_link

 

[GMCChevy]

I cant access the videos. Its normal for oil pressure to be lower warmed up and at idle and fluctuate with rpm and the dash guage isn't as accurate as a mechanical test guage. The big issue is if it has lifter tick and oil pressure light on or flickering at idle.

 

[YukonLover]

Sorry. I fixed the permissions on the video. One of them will show you the PSI gauge registers at a pretty high 80PSI and holds. I have NEVER seen a gauge that high in my life. I know as oil gets warmer the PSI will drop as the detergents wear down and the viscosity changes. But this gauge is WILD. I have never seen a truck that idles at 55/60 warm. Most I've seen warm idle is about 45. My other engines have different values, but 10 PSI difference, this one is double, like 25 PSI difference. Let me kno what you think. I told this dude tomorrow I may come look. We've been planning this since before Christmas because he was out of town for a few weeks.

I cant access the videos. Its normal for oil pressure to be lower warmed up and at idle and fluctuate with rpm and the dash guage isn't as accurate as a mechanical test guage. The big issue is if it has lifter tick and oil pressure light on or flickering at idle.

 

[Scottydoggs]

my 05 is 60 cold start, 40 hot idle, will hit 70 psi when hot wot driving down the road and stay there till i lift. so the oil pressure is just fine.

 

[strutaeng]

Is the truck in a cold area? I recently noticed my 06 Suburban idles kinda high in the mornings when it's cold, but haven't actually paid attention to the tach. Once I put it in gear it drops. I think that's kinda normal when they are cold.

I did bump up the idle a bit on the tune via HP Tuners. I installed a mild cam last spring when I freshen up my engine.

I wouldn't really be too concerned about the oil pressure readings TBH. I mean, doesn't seem like it's got low oil pressure, which is the biggest concern with an older/higher mileage engine.

 

[YukonLover]

my 05 is 60 cold start, 40 hot idle, will hit 70 psi when hot wot driving down the road and stay there till i lift. so the oil pressure is just fine.

Several others have said they WOT at 70, and idle 55/60... but I've never seen or heard anyone hit 80 and it stays until they lift. That video, the engine had no qualms about getting to 80, shot right up there. I'm concerned with a pickup tube clog or lifters or maybe an oil galley clog with sludge.

 

[YukonLover]

Is the truck in a cold area? I recently noticed my 06 Suburban idles kinda high in the mornings when it's cold, but haven't actually paid attention to the tach. Once I put it in gear it drops. I think that's kinda normal when they are cold.

I did bump up the idle a bit on the tune via HP Tuners. I installed a mild cam last spring when I freshen up my engine.

I wouldn't really be too concerned about the oil pressure readings TBH. I mean, doesn't seem like it's got low oil pressure, which is the biggest concern with an older/higher mileage engine.

Not really. Those videos were taken at a temp of about 50-53 degree and full sun. Low for night was prob 33-36 degrees. I've heard of some people doing HP tuners. Hes owned it awhile and alleges nothing was done to it from him, however we've all seen the movie Matilda.

Several others have said they WOT at 70, and idle 55/60... but I've never seen or heard anyone hit 80 and it stays until they lift. That video, the engine had no qualms about getting to 80, shot right up there. I'm concerned with a pickup tube clog or lifters or maybe an oil galley clog with sludge.

 

[Scottydoggs]

if anything the sensor is off. id say nothing is wrong with the o/p its self. or a blocked up anything.

when they go bad like not working at all, they stay at zero, or are pinned all the way to the right full time.

if there was a blockage the engine would be dead already.

 

[adriver]

Those gauges looked perfect to me. The 80psi when flooring it is what I get. That idle looked at about 700 to me, that's fine. The temp was right where it should be. I would have wanted to see a cold start, and in a perfect world a video of underneath. If that's from the top half of the United States, then leaks and lots of rust, would be EXPECTED.

When they finally got around to the engine bay, that sounded loud. Broken exhaust bolts are pretty common on these, especially if that's somewhere it gets salt or rust.

There are lots of easy fixes on these vehicles. If you can do the work yourself, then great. If not, I wouldn't buy an NBS. It's cheaper now, but won't be in the long run.. just sayin. It's going to have plenty of small problems at 240K, but if you're willing to put in the work, it's almost all pretty cheap and easy.

Also, not sure what your NBS experience is (99-06 full size), but since you're new. The XL is the GMC badged Suburban. If you want the longer version great, but there are also options with a 6.0L engine that is more fun, and better towing depending on how you're going to use it. There's an Escalade version of this, and there's a GMC Yukon Denali that both have 6.0 with AWD

 

[Tonyrodz]

Also--the stepper motor for the oil pressure gauge could be bad. They do/can go bad.

 

[YukonLover]

Also--the stepper motor for the oil pressure gauge could be bad. They do/can go bad.

I spoke to several gauge repair experts. They all stated the stepper motors are the only thing that fails on these. And the LCD dims. Most of that a cluster is not going to fail on these without something major happens, the failure rate is just too small. Does it happen, yes, but its like winning the lotto. They also stated the 1999-2002 clusters do not have stepper motors. They are similar to an oil gauge and magnet/coil and sometimes can lose strength; which leads to poor or inaccurate readings. The parts availability for 1999-2002 clusters are still made, but rare and expensive. Some can be repaired, but to be honest, I called at least 8 shops all GM certified. Only one would perform the repair, if needed. I asked him if the cluster for 1999-2002 could be converted to a 2003 type. He stated yes, but oil PSI and battery voltage would not work. He also stated the 1999 is not compatible with 2000-2002.

 

[strutaeng]

I spoke to several gauge repair experts. They all stated the stepper motors are the only thing that fails on these. And the LCD dims. Most of that a cluster is not going to fail on these without something major happens, the failure rate is just too small. Does it happen, yes, but its like winning the lotto. They also stated the 1999-2002 clusters do not have stepper motors. They are similar to an oil gauge and magnet/coil and sometimes can lose strength; which leads to poor or inaccurate readings. The parts availability for 1999-2002 clusters are still made, but rare and expensive. Some can be repaired, but to be honest, I called at least 8 shops all GM certified. Only one would perform the repair, if needed. I asked him if the cluster for 1999-2002 could be converted to a 2003 type. He stated yes, but oil PSI and battery voltage would not work. He also stated the 1999 is not compatible with 2000-2002.

I think that's correct on the 99-02 not having stepper motors. I think their are air core motors IIRC. I replaced the cluster on my 99 Silverado to gain the transmission temperature gauge. I don't remember what year it came from TBH.

But I'm kinda confused. You stated the vehicle you are looking at buying is an 04. Are you just starting what the shop told you regarding the 99-02 clusters? Because that wouldn't apply to the 03-07 classic clusters. If so, then acknowledged.

@OR VietVet recently got a replacement for his 2500HD GMT800. I can't remember where he got his, but I had looked at that site and they looked reasonably priced, in case you need a cluster.

 

[YukonLover]

Those gauges looked perfect to me. The 80psi when flooring it is what I get. That idle looked at about 700 to me, that's fine. The temp was right where it should be. I would have wanted to see a cold start, and in a perfect world a video of underneath. If that's from the top half of the United States, then leaks and lots of rust, would be EXPECTED.

When they finally got around to the engine bay, that sounded loud. Broken exhaust bolts are pretty common on these, especially if that's somewhere it gets salt or rust.

There are lots of easy fixes on these vehicles. If you can do the work yourself, then great. If not, I wouldn't buy an NBS. It's cheaper now, but won't be in the long run.. just sayin. It's going to have plenty of small problems at 240K, but if you're willing to put in the work, it's almost all pretty cheap and easy.

Also, not sure what your NBS experience is (99-06 full size), but since you're new. The XL is the GMC badged Suburban. If you want the longer version great, but there are also options with a 6.0L engine that is more fun, and better towing depending on how you're going to use it. There's an Escalade version of this, and there's a GMC Yukon Denali that both have 6.0 with AWD

It sounded loud to me too. But knock on wood, I have had 2 of these trucks and driven many more and inspected a lot. All original gaskets and bolts, never a leak. It was in his garage, maybe thats why it was loud? Garage hard surfaces, garbage cellphone mic maybe? I may be new to forums, but not to these trucks or cars in general. Theres a lot I dont know, but can fix most small or medium repairs.

I'd rather stay away fro the AWD esclaades or denalis. They are also poorly treated compared to your SLE ot SLT trims, which is more than enough. Hardware and gear rations are different than their counter-parts. Also, the repairs on the "higher-end" trucks are just a nightmare compared to a RWD truck. I had a 4x4 SLT Yukon XL 1500, and the repairs were more lengthy as compared to the standard RWD. I only used my 4x4 twice in the 5 years I had the truck in use. But it made many more repairs more expensive and time consuming. Even a new transfer-case, was 690 plus labor and thats me digging around for the best price for a new unit. The 2500s are too heavy for me to lift on my own and work under comfortably and dont really offer any additional need than what i can do with the 1500 series. They are also a lot more expensive going in and parts are more $$. I LOVE the yukon XLs, I know the Yukon XL is a suburban 1500, and the yukon is a tahoe. TBH I dont know why they made a smaller version NON XL or Tahoe. For big families that use the 3rd row, there is no trunk space on the non XL or Tahoe.

 

[YukonLover]

I think that's correct on the 99-02 not having stepper motors. I think their are air core motors IIRC. I replaced the cluster on my 99 Silverado to gain the transmission temperature gauge. I don't remember what year it came from TBH.

But I'm kinda confused. You stated the vehicle you are looking at buying is an 04. Are you just starting what the shop told you regarding the 99-02 clusters? Because that wouldn't apply to the 03-07 classic clusters. If so, then acknowledged.

@OR VietVet recently got a replacement for his 2500HD GMT800. I can't remember where he got his, but I had looked at that site and they looked reasonably priced, in case you need a cluster.

I have a 2001 as well, and asked, because the OIL PSI was reading relatively low and inconsistent, You commented on the post prior with it, thats the one that lead me down the rabbit hole of oil manufactures and ZINC and running the truck so long while I was delivering packages. Because during that the gauge decided it was going to start reading 5-10 PSI lower than what it was before I started delivering packages. And then the change oil soon light started coming on and after 10 seconds of being on it would turn off, even after you start driving. That continued even after a change and reset of the cluster.

I do like some small differences on the 2001 as compared to my 2003. I don't mind not having steering wheel controls in my 01,I feel more connected to the main purpose of the wheel. But I do miss the infotainment center on the cluster from my 2003, I don't have it in the 2001. However, I do like the full length and width of the center console in the 2001, and the separate compartments, I like the (3) in a row 12V cigarette lighter ports on my 2001, and I like the rear cargo area has a door lock switch, where my 2003 does not.

Why do you think the Engine was so loud in the video? Any thoughts?

 

[strutaeng]

I have a 2001 as well, and asked, because the OIL PSI was reading relatively low and inconsistent, You commented on the post prior with it, thats the one that lead me down the rabbit hole of oil manufactures and ZINC and running the truck so long while I was delivering packages. Because during that the gauge decided it was going to start reading 5-10 PSI lower than what it was before I started delivering packages. And then the change oil soon light started coming on and after 10 seconds of being on it would turn off, even after you start driving. That continued even after a change and reset of the cluster.

I do like some small differences on the 2001 as compared to my 2003. I don't mind not having steering wheel controls in my 01,I feel more connected to the main purpose of the wheel. But I do miss the infotainment center on the cluster from my 2003, I don't have it in the 2001. However, I do like the full length and width of the center console in the 2001, and the separate compartments, I like the (3) in a row 12V cigarette lighter ports on my 2001, and I like the rear cargo area has a door lock switch, where my 2003 does not.

Why do you think the Engine was so loud in the video? Any thoughts?

Ah, ok. Gotcha.

I'll look at that video later and let you know what I think.

 

[OR VietVet]

I think that's correct on the 99-02 not having stepper motors. I think their are air core motors IIRC. I replaced the cluster on my 99 Silverado to gain the transmission temperature gauge. I don't remember what year it came from TBH.

But I'm kinda confused. You stated the vehicle you are looking at buying is an 04. Are you just starting what the shop told you regarding the 99-02 clusters? Because that wouldn't apply to the 03-07 classic clusters. If so, then acknowledged.

@OR VietVet recently got a replacement for his 2500HD GMT800. I can't remember where he got his, but I had looked at that site and they looked reasonably priced, in case you need a cluster.

Digital Dash Solutions

 

[adriver]

Yeah, 99-02 have air core motors, (that need to be calibrated with equipment when fixed). The stepper motors are 03-07, you can find those everywhere, and you can reset those yourself.