Looking at 2011 Yukon Denali

[WillEngineer]

So, full disclosure. I am a Honda guy and by marriage a Ford guy.

My DD is a 2014 MDX. I also have an 03 Tacoma and an 06 Odyssey.

The Tacoma is not useful for my 3 kids, so I end up borrowing trucks when I need to take my kids places. I recently came upon an otherwise nice 2007 F150 5.4 with a blown motor. I am wrapping up that rebuild now and it will take the place of the Tacoma.

The Odyssey is showing her age, so I have started looking around for options. Right now I am scoping out an Excursion with a blown 6.0 and a 2011 Yukon Denali with an unspecified engine issue. I am thinking about going and checking it out Saturday. Hopefully the fact I pulled the F150 engine and rebuilt it at least shows I am either not afraid of challenges (or too stupid to refuse them)...but what might I be getting myself into with a Yukon? I wouldn't even be particularly scared of a full engine tear down, even though in this case I doubt it is required. Based upon pictures alone, the vehicle is in fine shape. It has a clean title, pictures indicate it is clean inside and out, and it has 182,000 miles.

I KNOW full well what I am getting into with an Excursion 6.0!!! If I go that route, I have already spec-ed out a professional to provide a create motor replacement.

Thanks for helping out a Honda/Ford guy that is falling backwards into potential GMC ownership.

 

[Shooter]

If you go 6.0, go to Powerstroke Specialties Powerstrokehelp.com.
If you go Denali, do a crate motor and tranny.

 

[kbuskill]

So, full disclosure. I am a Honda guy and by marriage a Ford guy.

My DD is a 2014 MDX. I also have an 03 Tacoma and an 06 Odyssey.

The Tacoma is not useful for my 3 kids, so I end up borrowing trucks when I need to take my kids places. I recently came upon an otherwise nice 2007 F150 5.4 with a blown motor. I am wrapping up that rebuild now and it will take the place of the Tacoma.

The Odyssey is showing her age, so I have started looking around for options. Right now I am scoping out an Excursion with a blown 6.0 and a 2011 Yukon Denali with an unspecified engine issue. I am thinking about going and checking it out Saturday. Hopefully the fact I pulled the F150 engine and rebuilt it at least shows I am either not afraid of challenges (or too stupid to refuse them)...but what might I be getting myself into with a Yukon? I wouldn't even be particularly scared of a full engine tear down, even though in this case I doubt it is required. Based upon pictures alone, the vehicle is in fine shape. It has a clean title, pictures indicate it is clean inside and out, and it has 182,000 miles.

I KNOW full well what I am getting into with an Excursion 6.0!!! If I go that route, I have already spec-ed out a professional to provide a create motor replacement.

Thanks for helping out a Honda/Ford guy that is falling backwards into potential GMC ownership.

Some more specifics, like what symptoms the Denali has, would make it easier to give better answers.

Over all the LS engines are pretty reliable.

The Denali will have the 6.2L and 6L80E 6 speed transmission.

Being that it's a 2011 it will have AFM/DOD (active fuel management/displacement on demand) which is known to be problematic if frequent oil changes are not done.

A cam and lifter swap to NON-AFM components is the best way to fix this and avoid future problems but it does require pulling the heads and reprogramming the ECM to turn off AFM.

If it has low oil pressure then it is a good possibility that it just needs a new O-ring on the oil pickup tube.

I would suggest taking a bluetooth OBD2 reader with you, if you have one, so you can check for potential codes that might give you additional info about the problem.

Once you go look at it, post up some more info on here and maybe we can give you some better insight.

 

[iamdub]

You're pretty much up to speed as far as possible issues. If you can tear down and rebuild a Ford 5.4, an LS would be a cakewalk.

 

[WillEngineer]

It was actually 172,000 miles when I had a 2nd glance at the CL ad.

A lot of die hard Honda guys don't like the cylinder deactivation too on the V6. There are hacks on cars like the Odyssey to trick the computer to thinking the engine is a couple of degrees cooler than optimal in order to bypass the deactivation. I guess I shouldn't be surprised the same gripe carries over to the GM motors.

Thanks for the advice so far. I'll get back when I know more. Hopefully the guy can wait until Saturday afternoon for me to be able to get over there and look at it.

 

[WillEngineer]

Here are a few of pics from my F150 rebuild if anyone is curious. With the oil pan off I found the culprit...a spun/failed thrust bearing. By the time I took it out I just decided that since I spent $800 on the truck I'd blow the motor apart, get it machined, and put it back together. Basically new engine in a 6 passenger truck for about $3000.

Mostly a fun project. Particularly when your father-in-law has a shop.

Newly cleaned heads and a block...they all look so cool.

Glad to know this level of effort far exceeds that of a small block GM.

While my father in law is a Ford guy, he has snuck in two GMCs since I've been married. He had a 67 3/4 ton with a 283 V8 and a 00s Sierra with a 4.8 V8. He'd still claim me I think.

 

[iamdub]

An LS is so simple that it's fun. About the only particular points with it are the oil pan and front and rear cover alignments.

 

[kbuskill]

It was actually 172,000 miles when I had a 2nd glance at the CL ad.

A lot of die hard Honda guys don't like the cylinder deactivation too on the V6. There are hacks on cars like the Odyssey to trick the computer to thinking the engine is a couple of degrees cooler than optimal in order to bypass the deactivation. I guess I shouldn't be surprised the same gripe carries over to the GM motors.

Thanks for the advice so far. I'll get back when I know more. Hopefully the guy can wait until Saturday afternoon for me to be able to get over there and look at it.

There are ways to disable the AFM electronically on the GMs as well... (Range device plugs into OBD2 port and programming it out with a Diablo tuner or some other means) BUT that leaves the hardware (collapsible lifters, etc.) Inside the engine which is still subject to fail, just not as likely.

5.4L Fords aren't that bad... the hardest part is making sure that both cams and the crank are in the proper orientation... and dealing with 2 timing chains that are 3 feet long... lol

 

[WillEngineer]

So I found out more. I went and looked at the car tonight. First of all, the owner was a salt of the earth guy. Very kind and generous. Gave me free meals at his restaurant for just showing up. gave me a big pack of quail eggs because we both raise chickens. Pretty cool.

The car was immaculate inside, and outside only had a few visual blemishes. Leather was clean with no tears. No stains. No dents. He has owned the vehicle since new and it was his wife's DD. Outside, one automatic step was malfunctioning so he turned it off. And someone stole the door trim of a door in Mexico. No other visible issues outside.

So about the engine issue. His wife took the Yukon to a local service place for oil changes. Best he can tell it wasn't filled properly and after driving it for months after the oil change it started developing a noise. It already had the typical small block lifter noise when cold, but all the sudden it sounded like it is about to knock itself apart. His wife took it straight home when the noise started, and the oil was not registering on the dip stick. I asked if he took it back to the service center and he felt it had been too long since the oil change to register a complaint, if indeed it was even them that filled it incorrectly. They had been talking about selling it in a year or so anyway, so in their mind "oh well, engine issue, this just accelerates our plans."

He fired it up and we agreed that it sounded horrible and the engine will have to be pulled out. I mean it sounded like "bang, bang, bang."

He gave me a strong indication he'd work with me as he wants it to go to a family that would use it.

So my question, if I can come to an agreeable price, would a crate be the way to go? Any recommendations?

If I were to pull it out and take it apart, is there sufficient clearance to have the block machine and have the cylinders bored? As a reference, when I took the Ford 5.4 to be machined, the shop charged me about $2000 to check the heads (check valves and springs), machine the block deck, bore out the cylinders, do a line bore, machine the rods, and get all new bearings and such. Let's say I spent another $500 or so on head bolts, gaskets, main bolts and such. I just had to put it together.

In trying to find out if this is worth it, which is the best alternative?

 

[iamdub]

It's all in how much you wanna spend. I'm one to be skeptical of "engine mills" that mass-rebuild engines. In my mind, their rebuilding process isn't as precise as someone having the components refurb'ed at specialty machine shops. A crate would be quick and easy, but you pay for that convenience. Sourcing a used, low-mile engine can be the cheapest route if you get a good deal, and it'd also be quick since it'd be ready to go. But, you may wanna invest more into it (reseal it, maybe AFM delete, etc.) before dropping it in.

You can safely bore the L94 out .015", but it probably won't need anything over a .005" honing if it was well-maintained. The question is the condition of the rotating assembly. You could always use it as an excuse to swap in a 4" crank and bore it .015" for more stroke and cubes.

 

[WillEngineer]

So another point, I did show the video to my father-in-law who has a solid knowledge of engines. His comment was "sounds like lifters, definitely valve train".

 

[iamdub]

So another point, I did show the video to my father-in-law who has a solid knowledge of engines. His comment was "sounds like lifters, definitely valve train".

If that's all it is, then AFM delete it and let 'er rip.

 

[WillEngineer]

I guess I'm naive on pushrod issues and idiosyncrasies.

I've been in one guys Chevy truck that had a lifter sound...this sounded like 10x that noise.

 

[avalonandl]

I would be prepared to put in a new/rebuilt long block. I bet a bearing spun.

 

[swathdiver]

Go at it slow so you're not wasting money. I bet it was lifter failure due to low oil and pressure but listen to your FIL, here's there and I'm here in my chair. Them 5.4 Fords have no power, spin lots of rpms and have no torque. Had two '99 stake bed 1-tons, one Ford, one Chevy. The cab in the Ford was bigger so I would drive it more often. It had less power, less gas mileage than the old 350 small block chevy and rode like a Mack. May not be so bad in a 1/2 ton PU though, idk, it's a Ford. Old school Fords were great motors, almost as good as GM! Went downhill after that IMO!

Once you tear into this motor, convert it to L9H by deleting AFM and having BlackBear tune the engine and transmission computers. You'll then have a 400+ horsepower hot rod truck that can 7 or 8 around in luxury and turn 14s at the drag strip.

 

[WillEngineer]

Well, the price is the next thing. I have to assume the cost of a full rebuild when I give a bid.

Having just done the Ford 5.4, I have a clue what I'm up against there.

KBB seems to about $11,500 for a good example with 172,000. His initial offer is $7800 obo.

 

[Charles Land]

Some more specifics, like what symptoms the Denali has, would make it easier to give better answers.

Over all the LS engines are pretty reliable.

The Denali will have the 6.2L and 6L80E 6 speed transmission.

Being that it's a 2011 it will have AFM/DOD (active fuel management/displacement on demand) which is known to be problematic if frequent oil changes are not done.

A cam and lifter swap to NON-AFM components is the best way to fix this and avoid future problems but it does require pulling the heads and reprogramming the ECM to turn off AFM.

If it has low oil pressure then it is a good possibility that it just needs a new O-ring on the oil pickup tube.

I would suggest taking a bluetooth OBD2 reader with you, if you have one, so you can check for potential codes that might give you additional info about the problem.

Once you go look at it, post up some more info on here and maybe we can give you some better insight.

All ogod advice. We have a 2011 Denali xl with 205,000 miles. Engine runs a little hot when towing, but hasn't been a problem. Trannys seem to be the weak point. Had to overhaul at 140k. My experience with Suburbans is to plan on a tranny overhaul every 100 to 150k. Going price for a tranny overhaul $2k to $2.5k. We have had to do work on suspension - replace compressor and rear air shocks. There is just a lot of stuff on this vehicle to keep working. You and Rock Auto will be best of friends.

 

[91RS]

I would plan on putting in a used L92 or L9H engine from an 07-10 that never came with AFM. I'd bet money it has lifter failure but no oil on the dipstick means it also has oil consumption from stuck piston rings. Unless you planned on modifying it, the time you'll safe from not having to rebuild the engine is worth a little extra cost (and after you buy all the parts it may not even be that much more). Plus, the old engine is still worth something because it's a 6.2L and it's desirable.

The main thing to consider in this case is how much other stuff does the truck need? At 170k+ miles the suspension will be tired and the mag ride shocks are expensive, ball joints and bushings could be worn, etc. Interior pieces aren't cheap either like the common cracked dash, console lid, steering wheel (the wood falls off when people pick at them), etc. If you don't care about any of that then I guess you don't have to worry about it but I'm a perfectionist.

 

[petethepug]

Didn’t see the year of the 6.0 you were looking over & assume they were all 4x2. 05 Eddie B would be the top pic. Earlier models had know issues involving the heads, studs and coolant contamination from casting sand left in the block.

The 11 Denali is susceptible to infrequent oil changes leaving the cyl fuel control (AFM) prone to failure. The Denali will be AWD or 2WD with that lovely 400+ hp 6.2 and possibly be loaded with features. Is it XL?

The 6.0 motor will need a good local mechanic to advise of proper service and diagnostic. Without it, it’s a crap shoot. The MPG factor will be slightly higher but you’ll walk to the rhythmic beat of fuel quality weariness and absolute maintenance schedules. The motor may be at end of life as 20 years is fast approaching them. It’s got room if you need it but you will not have the Cadillac ride of the Denali.

The 6SP o/d in the Denali is tried, true and it loves to handle the hp/tq of the 6.2. It handles towing well and with regular tows an updated trans cooler is wise.

I [emoji3590] oil burners, but when they go south, your married to an investment that’s hard to recoup. If it’s for family and towing, get the Denali. It’s turning radius, features, quieter, better ride is superior and the wifey will want to drive it. I’d rather spend the additional dough on the AWD maint portion of a Denali w/ a crate motor vs known Diesel issues on an older truck.

Lastly, three kids. The 3rd row on the Denali was either fought over to get or avoid. It’s not as comfortable as the 2nd row bench seat. The bench seat is not as comfy as the front row captains chairs. The ideal set up is 1st & 2nd row capt chairs for ez access to 3rd row and comfort. There’s a slim chance it may have 1st or 2nd row a/c seats. We have the XL bench on our 08 Denali. The girls usually fall over and sleep on long trips while my 6’3” son sprawled across the entire 3rd row with a blanket and iPhone.

Bring your kiddos to see what they like best for comfort on both. Happy wife (+ kids) is happy life [emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WillEngineer]

Didn’t see the year of the 6.0 you were looking over & assume they were all 4x2. 05 Eddie B would be the top pic. Earlier models had know issues involving the heads, studs and coolant contamination from casting sand left in the block.

The 11 Denali is susceptible to infrequent oil changes leaving the cyl fuel control (AFM) prone to failure. The Denali will be AWD or 2WD with that lovely 400+ hp 6.2 and possibly be loaded with features. Is it XL?

The 6.0 motor will need a good local mechanic to advise of proper service and diagnostic. Without it, it’s a crap shoot. The MPG factor will be slightly higher but you’ll walk to the rhythmic beat of fuel quality weariness and absolute maintenance schedules. The motor may be at end of life as 20 years is fast approaching them. It’s got room if you need it but you will not have the Cadillac ride of the Denali.

The 6SP o/d in the Denali is tried, true and it loves to handle the hp/tq of the 6.2. It handles towing well and with regular tows an updated trans cooler is wise.

I [emoji3590] oil burners, but when they go south, your married to an investment that’s hard to recoup. If it’s for family and towing, get the Denali. It’s turning radius, features, quieter, better ride is superior and the wifey will want to drive it. I’d rather spend the additional dough on the AWD maint portion of a Denali w/ a crate motor vs known Diesel issues on an older truck.

Lastly, three kids. The 3rd row on the Denali was either fought over to get or avoid. It’s not as comfortable as the 2nd row bench seat. The bench seat is not as comfy as the front row captains chairs. The ideal set up is 1st & 2nd row capt chairs for ez access to 3rd row and comfort. There’s a slim chance it may have 1st or 2nd row a/c seats. We have the XL bench on our 08 Denali. The girls usually fall over and sleep on long trips while my 6’3” son sprawled across the entire 3rd row with a blanket and iPhone.

Bring your kiddos to see what they like best for comfort on both. Happy wife (+ kids) is happy life [emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Denali is not an XL and it is AWD.

My towing needs would likely max out at 6000 lbs. My F150 can also handle that if need be....if I were towing something by myself I almost certainly would use the F150.

The biggest demerit against the Excursion right now to me is the fact that the most straightforward way to pull the engine is to take the cab off, and I don't have a lift to do that. So pulling the engine would get complicated.

Regarding the Denali, it really isn't drive-able more than a few mph, so testing the shocks and transmission are not really in the cards. I suppose I could ask the answer for any maintenance done on both of those items as he has owned it since new.

I went back and looked at the pics I took when I went and saw it. Although I wasn't looking for flaking steering wheels or cracking dashboards, I can't see any evidence of such in the pics and videos. This is Arizona we are talking about here, so I also didn't see any evidence of any clear coat issues or leather cracking (biggies in Phoenix). The exterior color is some sort of white pearl.