Let's sift through every square inch of a 2013 Tahoe PPV

[Caddylack]

Shit… I might just sell it…

I’m not in a rush to sell to somebody looking for a cheap cop car, but I would probably be okay with passing this truck off to another enthusiast at the right price.

I’m not looking to make money or even break even, but I know what I have. Keep in mind the following:

1. I’m the only person who has owned this thing besides one singular police department in Arizona. There is NO rust.

2. Performance tuned by Speed, Inc. in the Chicago suburbs and will run great on whatever gas you pour in it. DOD was disabled just after 100k miles, and the engine and trans are as strong as they get. Like 123k or something now on the odometer, I’ll have to check.

3. $1100 in recent brand new tires, plus the 18” Silverado rims.

I’m thinking about asking like $12.5k or something with the brand new sway bar package included.

 

[Caddylack]

If I’m not able to get what I want then I will just keep it and continue on with my plans. I own a parking lot, so it’s not like it’s taking up space or anything.

 

[blackelky]

If I’m not able to get what I want then I will just keep it and continue on with my plans. I own a parking lot, so it’s not like it’s taking up space or anything.

Sell the audi. Those are headaches and a half i liked my v8 s4 but dammit if i didn't want to set that thing on fire 6 mos out of the year.

 

[Caddylack]

Sell the audi. Those are headaches and a half i liked my v8 s4 but dammit if i didn't want to set that thing on fire 6 mos out of the year.

Ha!

My Audi is twin turbo, AWD, and manual trans… There are very few cars in that category. Not to mention Audis don’t rust.

They are definitely maintenance-intensive, but they aren’t unreliable if you are willing to deal with all of the tedious work.

I already have the car completely torn apart and the engine is on a stand. I’m about to run 20 psi on an engine with 250k miles.

I’m also doing a wide body conversion with Allroad parts… I’ve only seen it done in Germany… I don’t know of any Allroad-swapped sedans in the US.

I have bigger Audi plans down the road but I will keep quiet until I’m at that point.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Ha!

My Audi is twin turbo, AWD, and manual trans… There are very few cars in that category. Not to mention Audis don’t rust.

They are definitely maintenance-intensive, but they aren’t unreliable if you are willing to deal with all of the tedious work.

I already have the car completely torn apart and the engine is on a stand. I’m about to run 20 psi on an engine with 250k miles.

View attachment 423089
View attachment 423090

I’m also doing a wide body conversion with Allroad parts… I’ve only seen it done in Germany… I don’t know of any Allroad-swapped sedans in the US.

View attachment 423088

I have bigger Audi plans down the road but I will keep quiet until I’m at that point.

Should do a build thread on the Audi!

 

[blackelky]

Ha!

My Audi is twin turbo, AWD, and manual trans… There are very few cars in that category. Not to mention Audis don’t rust.

They are definitely maintenance-intensive, but they aren’t unreliable if you are willing to deal with all of the tedious work.

I already have the car completely torn apart and the engine is on a stand. I’m about to run 20 psi on an engine with 250k miles.

View attachment 423089
View attachment 423090

I’m also doing a wide body conversion with Allroad parts… I’ve only seen it done in Germany… I don’t know of any Allroad-swapped sedans in the US.

View attachment 423088

I have bigger Audi plans down the road but I will keep quiet until I’m at that point.

Gives me nightmares of when my timing chain failed on the audi

 

[Caddylack]

Gives me nightmares of when my timing chain failed on the audi

Yeah the chain motors had some issues but this is a belt motor that basically doesn’t fail internally. Almost 100% of 2.7T failures are due to either the belt or cam chain guides failing. A few are due to running the engine out of oil. This is an engine that can be tuned to 500+ awhp without even touching the engine internals.

 

[Caddylack]

Should do a build thread on the Audi!

Stage 2 at 250k miles: A case study

Hello all! I have been meaning to get a build thread started, and I can't seem to get back to sleep. So, why not now? The back story on this car can be found in my intro thread, here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/936927-New-to-this-forum-and-new-to-Audi-C5-2-7T-01E The...

www.audizine.com

Just keep in mind that the game plan changed a little bit along the way, so the introduction post isn’t completely accurate anymore.

I got brand new turbo cartridges from Mellet in the UK and I’m now completely overhauling the engine as far as gaskets, seals, and all maintenance items.

I will be running an old forum tune that is basically aimed at pushing the stock K03 turbos as far as you possibly can. The tune peaks at 20 psi and tapers to 15 psi. I should be well into the mid 300s as far as power, and the car only weighs like 3800 lbs. Oh, and it has a Torsen-based AWD system that is 100% mechanical.

Additionally, the 2.7T is a great example of how peak horsepower and torque numbers don’t tell the whole story. You can feel it when you drive the car. A stock 2.7T makes it’s peak 250 ftlbs at only 1200 rpm.

 

[blackelky]

Yeah the chain motors had some issues but this is a belt motor that basically doesn’t fail internally. Almost 100% of 2.7T failures are due to either the belt or cam chain guides failing. A few are due to running the engine out of oil. This is an engine that can be tuned to 500+ awhp without even touching the engine internals.

Can't do it lol. I thought the v8 s4 was supposed to be fool proof too. My r32 was always an issue too thankfully i sold it for higher than i paid for it. I used motul for oil changes back then. No clue what the issue was.

 

[Caddylack]

I thought the v8 s4 was supposed to be fool proof too

Well there is your problem.

 

[Caddylack]

I just figured I would mention that K&N intakes, with metal tube, are on closeout on Rock Auto for $250 right now:

AND… I’m lowering the Tahoe like maybe 2” or something. Woohoo!

 

[Caddylack]

Okay... On the subject of lowering...

I am probably okay with dropping 2-3" from the current ride height. Given that the PPV is already 1" lower than normal, then I have to be careful about the parts that I use.

In the rear, I'll be making the adjustment by replacing the coil springs with lowering springs. If I want to drop by 2-3", then what I actually need are springs listed as 3-4".

In the front, there are more options for adjusting ride height in addition to lowering springs.

You can drop the front strut down slightly by bolting it to the bottom of the control arm rather than the top.

You can use DJM control arms to drop 2-3" with OEM struts. In this case, the advertised drop would be the same with a PPV.

Then there are drop spindles. Again, the drop is the same for a PPV and a civilian model.

Adjustable coilovers will be out of budget for me.

DJM has their 3" rear coil springs on sale, so I might do that and then get their shocks to go with them. They have a rear hardware kit with end links and relocation brackets for both the shocks and the lower trailing arms.

I'm not sure what I should do in the front. I really like the DJM control arms, but I'm hesitant to replace the aluminum LCAs that the PPV comes with.

I'm leaning towards drop spindles with OEM springs and OEM-replacement struts.

 

[kbuskill]

Okay... On the subject of lowering...

I am probably okay with dropping 2-3" from the current ride height. Given that the PPV is already 1" lower than normal, then I have to be careful about the parts that I use.

In the rear, I'll be making the adjustment by replacing the coil springs with lowering springs. If I want to drop by 2-3", then what I actually need are springs listed as 3-4".

In the front, there are more options for adjusting ride height in addition to lowering springs.

You can drop the front strut down slightly by bolting it to the bottom of the control arm rather than the top.

You can use DJM control arms to drop 2-3" with OEM struts. In this case, the advertised drop would be the same with a PPV.

Then there are drop spindles. Again, the drop is the same for a PPV and a civilian model.

Adjustable coilovers will be out of budget for me.

DJM has their 3" rear coil springs on sale, so I might do that and then get their shocks to go with them. They have a rear hardware kit with end links and relocation brackets for both the shocks and the lower trailing arms.

I'm not sure what I should do in the front. I really like the DJM control arms, but I'm hesitant to replace the aluminum LCAs that the PPV comes with.

I'm leaning towards drop spindles with OEM springs and OEM-replacement struts.

Struts are a solid option but not the cheapest.

Rough Country sells a 2" drop kit for the front which is a 1/4" spacer and Grade 9 hardware to bolt the struts under the control arm.

I contacted them and bought just the hardware without the spacer for around $20, although that was several years ago, so now with inflation it is probably closer to $500.... lol

Anyway, it is the cheapest/easiest way to get 2" and the ride is the same since you aren't losing any strut travel like with springs.

 

[89Suburban]

Struts are a solid option but not the cheapest.

Rough Country sells a 2" drop kit for the front which is a 1/4" spacer and Grade 9 hardware to bolt the struts under the control arm.

I contacted them and bought just the hardware without the spacer for around $20, although that was several years ago, so now with inflation it is probably closer to $500.... lol

Anyway, it is the cheapest/easiest way to get 2" and the ride is the same since you aren't losing any strut travel like with springs.

I didn't think they sold them anymore. I had to make my own kit.

 

[kbuskill]

I didn't think they sold them anymore. I had to make my own kit.

I'm not sure. I bought mine several years ago and haven't had any contact with them recently... you may be correct. If so, it is just Grade 9 hardware. Grade 8 would probably be sufficient but for the added safety factor, why not get the Grade 9.

 

[Caddylack]

They sell grade 12 at Farm and Fleet, so, yeah.

I got impatient and placed a couple of orders. One from DJM and the other from Rock Auto.

DJM:

2" drop front springs
3" drop rear springs
Rear hardware kit
Rear shocks

Rock Auto:

Bilstein B6 front struts
Moog UCAs
Dorman "Rugged Duty" tie rod ends
Moog front poly end links

I still plan to mount the front strut from the bottom. The 3" rear springs should be a 2" drop for a PPV. The 2" front springs should be a 1" drop. I don't like the "leveled" look; I would rather have the rear just slightly higher than the front. This is a "sport truck", and I haul stuff sometimes.

I'm still kind of uncertain about the front. I'm not sure if springs + mounting from the bottom is a better option than doing drop spindles, mounting the strut normally, and keeping the PPV springs.

Do drop spindles change the angle of the sway bar, or no?

 

[kbuskill]

They sell grade 12 at Farm and Fleet, so, yeah.

I got impatient and placed a couple of orders. One from DJM and the other from Rock Auto.

DJM:

2" drop front springs
3" drop rear springs
Rear hardware kit
Rear shocks

Rock Auto:

Bilstein B6 front struts
Moog UCAs
Dorman "Rugged Duty" tie rod ends
Moog front poly end links

I still plan to mount the front strut from the bottom. The 3" rear springs should be a 2" drop for a PPV. The 2" front springs should be a 1" drop. I don't like the "leveled" look; I would rather have the rear just slightly higher than the front. This is a "sport truck", and I haul stuff sometimes.

I'm still kind of uncertain about the front. I'm not sure if springs + mounting from the bottom is a better option than doing drop spindles, mounting the strut normally, and keeping the PPV springs.

Do drop spindles change the angle of the sway bar, or no?

No, drop spindles don't change the front-end geometry, which is the big selling point. No negative camber to worry about because everything else remains in stock location.

 

[Caddylack]

No, drop spindles don't change the front-end geometry, which is the big selling point. No negative camber to worry about because everything else remains in stock location.

As life would have it, the McGaughy's drop spindles are on sale for $289.

 

[Caddylack]

So these "drop struts" that are sold by Belltech, McGaughy's, etc.... Am I understanding correctly that they lower the front end up to 3" without any other mods? It says to use factory coils only.

Since my struts and shocks are at the end of their life anyway, that might be cheaper for ME in this particular situation.

Of course, I already bought stuff, because I'm impulsive.

 

[kbuskill]

So these "drop struts" that are sold by Belltech, McGaughy's, etc.... Am I understanding correctly that they lower the front end up to 3" without any other mods? It says to use factory coils only.

Since my struts and shocks are at the end of their life anyway, that might be cheaper for ME in this particular situation.

Of course, I already bought stuff, because I'm impulsive.

Yes, they move the lower spring mount closer to the bottom of the strut, thereby lowering the front-end. The Belltechs use spacer rings to achieve differing levels of drop. So no rings equals max drop, all rings equals stock height or whatever, and anything in between.

The downside is negative camber will be induced by spring/strut lowering VS a spindle drop.

Spindles are essentially a "Free" drop, meaning no (or very little) change in suspension geometry. Anything else and you start messing with Camber which will eat tires if not corrected.