LED Brake Light Repair

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
23,405
Reaction score
34,027
Location
Stockton, Ca.
I see not many have seen the wonders of a plastic welder, albeit the good one's are a little pricey
 

trailblazer

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2019
Posts
281
Reaction score
394
I was worried about this failing again that’s why I covered the repair with a small piece of electrical tape and globbed Dynaflex sealant over it. Definitely waterproof and able to handle four seasons. Plus I can scrap it off if I run into issues again (like me repairing this repair). Seems like the best repair would be to either use a humongous glob of solder or preferably a small copper wire so it can handle the flex that is going on in there. What a weird design.
 

justinb181

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jun 4, 2015
Posts
25
Reaction score
1
Just did this tonight. I pulled the drivers side unit and it appears to have already have had a repair that failed. Seems like you have to either jump it with a wire or use a much more rigid jumper than just soldering the cracks. I suppose globbing the hell out if it with solder would work.

I used a dremel tool with a grinding burr. This was 100x easier than a “hot knife”.
I'll be tackling this soon, what grinding burr did you use? I was thinking about using a cutting wheel but worried it may cut too deep.
 
Last edited:

trailblazer

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2019
Posts
281
Reaction score
394
I'll be tackling this soon, what grinding burr did you use? I was thinking about using a cutting wheel but worried it may cut too deep.
I had a carbide one laying in my toolbox and used that one with my Dremel. It is cone shaped. Just take your time and have a firm grip on the tool and light fixture.
 

BlaineBug

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Posts
1,062
Reaction score
559
Just did this tonight. I pulled the drivers side unit and it appears to have already have had a repair that failed. Seems like you have to either jump it with a wire or use a much more rigid jumper than just soldering the cracks. I suppose globbing the hell out if it with solder would work.

I used a dremel tool with a grinding burr. This was 100x easier than a “hot knife”.

If you're in there you may as well do both. Solder to bridge the gap and restore the structural integrity of the metal, but then add a secondary "fail safe" flexible copper wire for good measure too. Fix one cry once?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
128,786
Posts
1,805,384
Members
91,765
Latest member
AT4Hunter

Latest posts

Top