LED Brake Light Repair

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AzCoronaDog

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I just bought a 2017 Yukon XL Denali and I discovered the passenger side brake light was not working. (Shame on the dealer for not catching this!)
What would have been a $2 bulb on my 1990 Suburban is a $500+ assembly on this one!
So, Google being my best friend, I discovered this is a common problem for this model series. A manufacturing defect in my opinion, but GM will never admit that.
I also discovered you can fix it yourself pretty easily, or at least try before you shell out the big bucks.

I found a good YouTube video (after I did it the harder way carefully removing the lens... LOL), titled "2016 GMC Yukon LED Brake Light Repair"
Here is the link:

Be sure to watch it all the way through, the guy realized he should have been neater about sealing the holes.
 

Miami-Dade

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I just bought a 2017 Yukon XL Denali and I discovered the passenger side brake light was not working. (Shame on the dealer for not catching this!)
What would have been a $2 bulb on my 1990 Suburban is a $500+ assembly on this one!
So, Google being my best friend, I discovered this is a common problem for this model series. A manufacturing defect in my opinion, but GM will never admit that.
I also discovered you can fix it yourself pretty easily, or at least try before you shell out the big bucks.

I found a good YouTube video (after I did it the harder way carefully removing the lens... LOL), titled "2016 GMC Yukon LED Brake Light Repair"
Here is the link:

Be sure to watch it all the way through, the guy realized he should have been neater about sealing the holes.

Thank you for posting all that information Jeff!
 

BG1988

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Remember do it in a well ventilated area don't want to breath in the plastic fumes


also that soldering is total armature slightly incorrect

as he is going to be doing that job again in the future


you will need like some flexible wire ( not a solid core wire )


also soldering FLUX

good leaded solder
 
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BG1988

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I just bought a 2017 Yukon XL Denali and I discovered the passenger side brake light was not working. (Shame on the dealer for not catching this!)
What would have been a $2 bulb on my 1990 Suburban is a $500+ assembly on this one!
So, Google being my best friend, I discovered this is a common problem for this model series. A manufacturing defect in my opinion, but GM will never admit that.
I also discovered you can fix it yourself pretty easily, or at least try before you shell out the big bucks.

I found a good YouTube video (after I did it the harder way carefully removing the lens... LOL), titled "2016 GMC Yukon LED Brake Light Repair"
Here is the link:

Be sure to watch it all the way through, the guy realized he should have been neater about sealing the holes.
i though about upgrading mine with 35 watt leds headlights
Update as of 2020: These tail lights are now covered under a warranty extension for 6 years or 72,000 miles through the dealers. I just had my 2016 tail lights replaced for free at 64,000 miles. Saved over a $1000.
a dremel would be better to open it instead a iron i would use 3d printer plastic to seal it back up with an soldering iron.....
 

Rygrego

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i though about upgrading mine with 35 watt leds headlights

a dremel would be better to open it instead a iron i would use 3d printer plastic to seal it back up with an soldering iron.....
And a Dremel cut open tail light is better than a free new tail light?
 

trailblazer

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Just did this tonight. I pulled the drivers side unit and it appears to have already have had a repair that failed. Seems like you have to either jump it with a wire or use a much more rigid jumper than just soldering the cracks. I suppose globbing the hell out if it with solder would work.

I used a dremel tool with a grinding burr. This was 100x easier than a “hot knife”.
 

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trailblazer

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I should note that I covered the exposed area with black electrical tape before globbing it with Dynaflex sealant (auto parts store had just closed and I didn’t want to dig out the RTV).
 

BG1988

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Just did this tonight. I pulled the drivers side unit and it appears to have already have had a repair that failed. Seems like you have to either jump it with a wire or use a much more rigid jumper than just soldering the cracks. I suppose globbing the hell out if it with solder would work.

I used a dremel tool with a grinding burr. This was 100x easier than a “hot knife”.
Yes i was thinking a Hot glue gun could be used to insert 3d printer plastic to melt it instead of a soldering iron... i think 30watt would do the trick(outside of course )
 

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