Leaks
- Thread starter DTan21
- Start date
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which part?
your photo shows the starter & heatsheild, corner of the oil pan, corner of the bellhousing, and part of a support bracket
your photo shows the starter & heatsheild, corner of the oil pan, corner of the bellhousing, and part of a support bracket
There is a whole other thread about these leaks, started by the OP.
east302
Full Access Member
It’s easier to stick to one thread (helps everyone keep track of things), but there isn’t going to be a coolant leak originating at that drip point on the starter. It’s coming from somewhere else - either above or from in front and being blown back by the fan and while driving.
First suggestion is to hose it all off and let it dry. If it’s leaking as bad as you mentioned in your other thread, it should be easy to spot the leak source.
Alternately, a parts store will rent a coolant pressure tester that you install in place of the radiator cap. Pressurize the system (it should hold) and watch for leaks. This helps find leaks that may not be easily identified with the engine on and fan blowing. YouTube should have some videos on how to do that if you’re not too familiar with it.
Easy things to check are...
-Two radiator hoses, one up top and one below. Also the cap and hose to the expansion tank at the passenger firewall.
-Does your radiator have an unused port below the radiator cap and line to the expansion tank? Aftermarket ones tend to use these and have a cheap rubber cap and clamp installed to plug them. They crack and leak.
-Radiator leak. Look at the bottom of the radiator through the fan shroud, see if it’s wet or if coolant is collecting in the supporting bracket below.
-Two heater hoses going into the firewall on the passenger side. Follow them both up to the engine. You’ll also have a black plastic water valve about 6-12 inches from the firewall. Two lines in, two out. It can leak as well.
-Water pump which is where the fan connects. See if it is leaking from the bottom.
-Knock sensor which is the round plug with an electrical connector just in front of the starter on the bottom side of the block. It looked dry in the photo on your other thread but would be easy to see if it’s leaking. Odds are lower on this.
-Intake manifold. When did the previous owner last change the gaskets? If they’re vintage 1996 then they’re probably (likely) leaking. For that you’ll just look for wet spots between the valve covers and intake and along the front and back seams where the intake meets the block. How does the oil look - is it like chocolate milk?
None of the above are particularly difficult to repair. An intake leak would be more expensive ($800-1000?) if a shop did it. Maybe $100 and a weekend if you did it yourself.
Then there are the freeze plug and head gasket moments of pure awesomeness, but I’d start with the usual suspects first.
First suggestion is to hose it all off and let it dry. If it’s leaking as bad as you mentioned in your other thread, it should be easy to spot the leak source.
Alternately, a parts store will rent a coolant pressure tester that you install in place of the radiator cap. Pressurize the system (it should hold) and watch for leaks. This helps find leaks that may not be easily identified with the engine on and fan blowing. YouTube should have some videos on how to do that if you’re not too familiar with it.
Easy things to check are...
-Two radiator hoses, one up top and one below. Also the cap and hose to the expansion tank at the passenger firewall.
-Does your radiator have an unused port below the radiator cap and line to the expansion tank? Aftermarket ones tend to use these and have a cheap rubber cap and clamp installed to plug them. They crack and leak.
-Radiator leak. Look at the bottom of the radiator through the fan shroud, see if it’s wet or if coolant is collecting in the supporting bracket below.
-Two heater hoses going into the firewall on the passenger side. Follow them both up to the engine. You’ll also have a black plastic water valve about 6-12 inches from the firewall. Two lines in, two out. It can leak as well.
-Water pump which is where the fan connects. See if it is leaking from the bottom.
-Knock sensor which is the round plug with an electrical connector just in front of the starter on the bottom side of the block. It looked dry in the photo on your other thread but would be easy to see if it’s leaking. Odds are lower on this.
-Intake manifold. When did the previous owner last change the gaskets? If they’re vintage 1996 then they’re probably (likely) leaking. For that you’ll just look for wet spots between the valve covers and intake and along the front and back seams where the intake meets the block. How does the oil look - is it like chocolate milk?
None of the above are particularly difficult to repair. An intake leak would be more expensive ($800-1000?) if a shop did it. Maybe $100 and a weekend if you did it yourself.
Then there are the freeze plug and head gasket moments of pure awesomeness, but I’d start with the usual suspects first.
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