adventurenali92
Full Access Member
I agree I don’t like chrome bumpers either. I think color matched look SO much better! Haha
jarydM’s 2005 Tahoe Build/Rebuild
- Thread starter jarydM
- Start date
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The hunt for a drivers side fender is coming up bunk. Literally every truck is smashed one or both of them. And don’t even get me started on the incredible luck of finding a bumper...
anyways, part of the plan a LONG time ago was to do a full HD front conversion, including the bumper. Not just a 1500 bumper with the cut out for the grille.
but the problem lies in that the bumper mounts put the bumper ~1.25” too high on the body. I’m not willing to cut and or re-weld my frame horns, so instead I’m doing part one of the lift, which will be 1.5” body lift and front level. Parts are ready to be installed next time I have a break.
thoughts/advice for future: is it cheaper to have transmission rebuilt, or buy a built transmission? Mine isn’t done, but it was having slip issues before she got parked (infrequently)
anyways, part of the plan a LONG time ago was to do a full HD front conversion, including the bumper. Not just a 1500 bumper with the cut out for the grille.
but the problem lies in that the bumper mounts put the bumper ~1.25” too high on the body. I’m not willing to cut and or re-weld my frame horns, so instead I’m doing part one of the lift, which will be 1.5” body lift and front level. Parts are ready to be installed next time I have a break.
thoughts/advice for future: is it cheaper to have transmission rebuilt, or buy a built transmission? Mine isn’t done, but it was having slip issues before she got parked (infrequently)
Several more parts arrived today, including the headlight hangers, so i got to test fit that
and also installed a new power steering cooler to replace the one the deer nearly broke in half. I bent it back straight, and it wasn’t leaking while unpressurized, but I felt it “give” when it bent back, and a brand new one was only ~$40
also fitted the new part today of the drivers side fender. Had to drive 100 miles to get it
also put the new hood on, and let me tell you friends, don’t do that job alone! Damn near killed my fool self!
also got the rotors and pads to do the NNBS brake upgrade but now have to work for 8 days straight, so time for a break...
also fitted the new part today of the drivers side fender. Had to drive 100 miles to get it
also put the new hood on, and let me tell you friends, don’t do that job alone! Damn near killed my fool self!
also got the rotors and pads to do the NNBS brake upgrade but now have to work for 8 days straight, so time for a break...
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
Dang you’re gettin a move on it! I Like the updates!
thanks! I’m glad to finally be able to make it look the way I wanted.
Radiator came today a full week early, and blessedly pristine and undamaged.
Body lift kit also came today, will have to get a few more of the longer size bolts, and that’ll be good to go.
so time off next week
1) assemble parts back onto fenders, and reattach all accessories and engine compartment parts
2) install new radiator.
3) check for leaks under pressure.
4) install brake upgrade, new rotors and new pads
5) install wheel spacers
6) body lift
7) prep and paint bumper, grill, esky vent covers then install
8) drive!
actually I’ll have to replace the drivers door at some point in there, but I think I’m gonna have it professionally painted, then move all the wires/etc from old door to new door.
Body lift kit also came today, will have to get a few more of the longer size bolts, and that’ll be good to go.
so time off next week
1) assemble parts back onto fenders, and reattach all accessories and engine compartment parts
2) install new radiator.
3) check for leaks under pressure.
4) install brake upgrade, new rotors and new pads
5) install wheel spacers
6) body lift
7) prep and paint bumper, grill, esky vent covers then install
8) drive!
actually I’ll have to replace the drivers door at some point in there, but I think I’m gonna have it professionally painted, then move all the wires/etc from old door to new door.
Awesome news.
New radiator and new power steering cooler mounted and hooked up. Topped off, bled air, and checked for leaks.
got a little concerned because the fans didn’t cut on for almost ever, and started to get worried that I must’ve messed something up, but then they finally cut on.
Drove it around the block (mostly to wash the truck off) and found some new issues:
AC compressor I think gave out when it started this time. It made an awful noise when it started, then there wasn’t any cold air, or noise when you turned it on or off. I added some refrigerant and the pump made some noise, but the lines were under pressure already, and nothing changed.
as if that wasn’t frustrating enough, the blend door for the front AC has apparently quit again, so I’ll have to change that (again). Additionally I tried to replace that part for the rear AC unit only to find out it had broken off and feel down into the unit, so maybe I’ll take that apart too.
radio connection is shorting out (wife reminded me it was doing that before I parked it) so I’ll take the dash off to fix that.
And now almost all the lights in the gauge cluster are out, so I’ll be looking for someone to rebuild it, or put the esky cluster I always wanted in.
still trying to find someone to paint the new door for me, and then figure out how to move all the parts and electronics from one door to the other..
Struck out on the bolts for body lift to replace the ones for the truck bed in the kit, so I’ll just order them.
all the body parts are installed, except the wheel flares waiting on new body clips, and the bumper and grill which are waiting on paint and the body lift.
got a little concerned because the fans didn’t cut on for almost ever, and started to get worried that I must’ve messed something up, but then they finally cut on.
Drove it around the block (mostly to wash the truck off) and found some new issues:
AC compressor I think gave out when it started this time. It made an awful noise when it started, then there wasn’t any cold air, or noise when you turned it on or off. I added some refrigerant and the pump made some noise, but the lines were under pressure already, and nothing changed.
as if that wasn’t frustrating enough, the blend door for the front AC has apparently quit again, so I’ll have to change that (again). Additionally I tried to replace that part for the rear AC unit only to find out it had broken off and feel down into the unit, so maybe I’ll take that apart too.
radio connection is shorting out (wife reminded me it was doing that before I parked it) so I’ll take the dash off to fix that.
And now almost all the lights in the gauge cluster are out, so I’ll be looking for someone to rebuild it, or put the esky cluster I always wanted in.
still trying to find someone to paint the new door for me, and then figure out how to move all the parts and electronics from one door to the other..
Struck out on the bolts for body lift to replace the ones for the truck bed in the kit, so I’ll just order them.
all the body parts are installed, except the wheel flares waiting on new body clips, and the bumper and grill which are waiting on paint and the body lift.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
For the ac, check the ac belt AND ac tensioner. It tends to seize up from sitting. Happened to mine, and from seizing up it broke the belt.
belt was still spinning, I think it might be the clutch on the compressor.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
That sux. I'd rather it be the belt or tensioner!
Update:
got to spend two days this week working in the car. As the virus picks up in my area my free days from work are gonna become less and less..
anyways, got a few things done. Installed the rear wheel spacers
peeled the stickers off the rear window, and took the pin striping off the sides.
prepped the calipers and painted them for the NNBS brake upgrade
then put all new rotors on the front, and put the new (to me) calipers on.
Didn’t take anymore pictures, but also put bigger torsion keys on to level the front, and added the wheel spacers to the front as well. Stance is much improved.
While trying to prep brakes after install the pedal Unexpected went to the floor and there was a sound like air. The pedal kept going to the floor, but would eventually push back. I thought maybe i had some air in the system, and decided to work on the AC.
replaced the orafice port between the high and low pressure lines, vacuumed the system out, and then repressurized. Ac is colder now, but I’m still having an issue with the actuators not giving me cold air on passenger side and rear. I’ve replaced the front one once before, and tried to replace the rear. The rear one actually broke the door off, and had it fall down into the system, so I’m not real sure how I’m going to fix that.
As I got out of the car, I noticed a dripping puddle behind the drivers side rear door, and at first thought it must be condensation off the ac units, but it was on the wrong side. Reached down... brake fluid. Looks like the line burst on the drivers side while trying to repressurize the system. I guess the stainless steel lines just got moved up from a “later” upgrade to a “now” upgrade
got to spend two days this week working in the car. As the virus picks up in my area my free days from work are gonna become less and less..
anyways, got a few things done. Installed the rear wheel spacers
prepped the calipers and painted them for the NNBS brake upgrade
While trying to prep brakes after install the pedal Unexpected went to the floor and there was a sound like air. The pedal kept going to the floor, but would eventually push back. I thought maybe i had some air in the system, and decided to work on the AC.
replaced the orafice port between the high and low pressure lines, vacuumed the system out, and then repressurized. Ac is colder now, but I’m still having an issue with the actuators not giving me cold air on passenger side and rear. I’ve replaced the front one once before, and tried to replace the rear. The rear one actually broke the door off, and had it fall down into the system, so I’m not real sure how I’m going to fix that.
As I got out of the car, I noticed a dripping puddle behind the drivers side rear door, and at first thought it must be condensation off the ac units, but it was on the wrong side. Reached down... brake fluid. Looks like the line burst on the drivers side while trying to repressurize the system. I guess the stainless steel lines just got moved up from a “later” upgrade to a “now” upgrade
Hopefully the master didn’t get damaged when the pedal went to the floor. You should put a piece of 2x 4 under it if you’re gonna bleed them using the pedal method to keep that from happening.
I know the brakes and bleeding on these trucks are a little different than some other trucks/cars, but why would it have damaged the master cylinder?
there’s been a leak on this truck at the brake booster for years now, but fluid has never run low, so hopefully all will remain well.
On our trucks, if the pedal goes all the way to the floor it damages the seals on the MC. Everybody says to either be super careful or better yet put a piece of wood on the floor to keep the pedal from going to the floor when bleeding using the pedal. I use a Motive pressure bleeder so I haven’t had a problem. If you can’t get the brakes bled afterward you’ll know where to look, unfortunately.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
Apparently the seal between the master cylinder and the hydro boost unit is a common leak point on the GMT800s. I replaced both mine a couple years because it was leaking brake fluid like crazy and and it was splattering all over the inside of my drivers side wheel well. Couldn’t tell if it was leaking from the hydro boost side of the seal or the master cylinder side of the seal. So I said screw it let’s replace both cuz I don’t want to have to tear this apart again. Lol.
I might do that anyways, everything in the drivers side wheel well is covered in brake fluid.
That’s a bummer, it might’ve blown then. I did the bleed with the car off until I got some pedal resistance, but when I started it, it went all the way down. I think it may have blown before that even. But there wasn’t any new fluid leaking near the firewall or engine bay, just a huge puddle at the back door drivers side. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
not that replacing lines will be a comparative cake walk
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