Intermittent starting issue 2011 Yukon XL Denali [SOLVED]

[Dadnali68]

Hi all, just got the truck a few days ago. Previous owner said it was great but had some issues but he thought he had fixed it. He was wrong. No lights on the dash, turn key, no click no start. Sometimes it's a few minutes of turning the key until it starts, sometimes it starts right away. Sometimes remote start works, sometimes it doesn't. Last owner replaced battery, starter, transmission, and fuse block. I know I need to look at the wiring near the battery for corrosion. And next time is doesn't start I need to probe the starter to see if it's getting proper voltage. I'm going to redo the ground in the engine compartment soon as well. Any other ideas would be great. I also have an idea for a work around I'd like to toss out there. I used to crew for a drag car. We had a second starter switch on the firewall so we could bump the motor to check valve lash. Would I be insane to just say F-it and wire in a second starter on the firewall to bypass whatever the issue is and just use it when the truck refuses to start? Would love to know your thoughts. I really like this truck and I want it work for me. I got it for a great price and it's still really clean for the age and milage. I want to do right by it so it will do right by me and my newly expanded family.

 

[Fless]

Welcome to the forum from Colorado!

I would lean toward deeper diagnostics before wiring any workaround. The cause of the current (pun intended) symptoms could cause other issues down the road.

 

[Dadnali68]

Welcome to the forum from Colorado!

I would lean toward deeper diagnostics before wiring any workaround. The cause of the current (pun intended) symptoms could cause other issues down the road.

Thank you for the warm welcome from a cold place! Yeah I'd like to do it right. But if this thing ever leaves me stranded the gloves are coming off!

 

[j91z28d1]

if you've got one with weird issues and you want to try and track them down yourself, a 300$ clone tech 2 and a subscription to all data or something would be a good place to start.


for the no start, if it was mine I'd look at a scanner and see if the crank request is getting to the bcm and go from there. it could be anything from a bad security thing, immobilizer I think they call it it? to ignition switch.

short of that, battery cables looking good on the outside and being bad internally is pretty common around there, as well as look battery terminals. make sure he's replaced both recently and that you can't move the battery terminals by hand trying pretty hard. sounds silly but it happens.

 

[Dadnali68]

if you've got one with weird issues and you want to try and track them down yourself, a 300$ clone tech 2 and a subscription to all data or something would be a good place to start.


for the no start, if it was mine I'd look at a scanner and see if the crank request is getting to the bcm and go from there. it could be anything from a bad security thing, immobilizer I think they call it it? to ignition switch.

short of that, battery cables looking good on the outside and being bad internally is pretty common around there, as well as look battery terminals. make sure he's replaced both recently and that you can't move the battery terminals by hand trying pretty hard. sounds silly but it happens.

Thanks for this. Currently riding around with a simple scanner and a multi-meter. So far since I made this post it hasn't had the problem, but I will update as I figure things out!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

I had similar intermittent starting issues with my 97 Yukon (RIP), and it turned out to be a worn out ignition switch.

 

[Dadnali68]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

I had similar intermittent starting issues with my 97 Yukon (RIP), and it turned out to be a worn out ignition switch.

Thank you for the welcome, the advice on here has been great! I will update this thread as I find things out and will participate where I can in other conversations. Just know I'll be a slow poster, I work from home so I don't drive it very often and it just recently turned cold so I'm not being very proactive on diagnostics in my free time. Also, 8 week old baby. I like him a lot more than the truck so I spend time with him lol.

 

[petethepug]

Welcome & congrats from SoCal. My very tall giraffe wife was really happy when we got our 1st YXL Denali. She called it “the nap wagon”.

-/+ cables should be 1st on list to replace. Some batteries that fit our truck but not spec’d for it also have a post that’s a mm smaller than the post terminal can snug against.

You’ll know this if any of the battery cables are warm or hot from resistance. Look for the coupon from the local GM, Caddy, Chevy or Buick DLR for a free safety check on the truck.

Let them stumble into the potential problem for you (then run, lol). The Tech2 clone dealer diagnostic reader or Tech2 WIN 7/10 PC based VX nano SW is the keys to the city in that vehicle.

 

[Doubeleive]

Hi all, just got the truck a few days ago. Previous owner said it was great but had some issues but he thought he had fixed it. He was wrong. No lights on the dash, turn key, no click no start. Sometimes it's a few minutes of turning the key until it starts, sometimes it starts right away. Sometimes remote start works, sometimes it doesn't. Last owner replaced battery, starter, transmission, and fuse block. I know I need to look at the wiring near the battery for corrosion. And next time is doesn't start I need to probe the starter to see if it's getting proper voltage. I'm going to redo the ground in the engine compartment soon as well. Any other ideas would be great. I also have an idea for a work around I'd like to toss out there. I used to crew for a drag car. We had a second starter switch on the firewall so we could bump the motor to check valve lash. Would I be insane to just say F-it and wire in a second starter on the firewall to bypass whatever the issue is and just use it when the truck refuses to start? Would love to know your thoughts. I really like this truck and I want it work for me. I got it for a great price and it's still really clean for the age and milage. I want to do right by it so it will do right by me and my newly expanded family.

one other thing to consider in the mix is the ignition cylinder, that is where a tech2 would be handy, one giveaway is the no lights on dash, if the ignition switch is not working no lights on dash...... just food for thought

 

[Dadnali68]

Welcome & congrats from SoCal. My very tall giraffe wife was really happy when we got our 1st YXL Denali. She called it “the nap wagon”.

-/+ cables should be 1st on list to replace. Some batteries that fit our truck but not spec’d for it also have a post that’s a mm smaller than the post terminal can snug against.

You’ll know this if any of the battery cables are warm or hot from resistance. Look for the coupon from the local GM, Caddy, Chevy or Buick DLR for a free safety check on the truck.

Let them stumble into the potential problem for you (then run, lol). The Tech2 clone dealer diagnostic reader or Tech2 WIN 7/10 PC based VX nano SW is the keys to the city in that vehicle.

I also have a tall wife. We can both fit in the third row without our heads hitting the ceiling! She's also the one who told me "this truck, for that price? Go for it!" I see a few people are suggesting a tech2. Any reliable links to find one? Would a real one off ebay or marketplace be a bad call? Are there any more universal ones I could look for that work for more than just GM? Also tp those suggesting it could be the ignition switch, would remote start bypass the switch in the column? Because if it does that's not the issue because it has failed to remote start before. Not sure what asks for what electric wise when starting from remote vs key.

 

[Dadnali68]

one other thing to consider in the mix is the ignition cylinder, that is where a tech2 would be handy, one giveaway is the no lights on dash, if the ignition switch is not working no lights on dash...... just food for thought

I should rephrase. No lights as in no check engine lights. The dash lights up and everything works and looks as it should until key turns from run to start. Even remote start will put on the exterior lights, I can hear the fuel pump cycle, then no crank.... sometimes... more often then not so far it will start and run.

 

[Doubeleive]

I should rephrase. No lights as in no check engine lights. The dash lights up and everything works and looks as it should until key turns from run to start. Even remote start will put on the exterior lights, I can hear the fuel pump cycle, then no crank.... sometimes... more often then not so far it will start and run.

99% of the time a cel is smog equipment related and would not prevent the vehicle from starting or running (with the key).
very rare cases there could be something, but not much
what a cel "may" do is prevent a "auto start", or prevent "cruise" from working, that's sort a fail safe because it doesn't know if you are aware of whatever issue may be happening, or if the cel light is burnt out, etc
for instance if it was overheating..... and it caused a error on the dic such as low power, pull over and shut off engine then it would not auto start
or if there was a low oil level warning, cat inefficiency, etc things like that.... it just defaults to no auto start.
there could still a ignition issue though until it is ruled out, a tech2 would tell you what (it see's) as the key position in the case of no start.
for instance of you are turning it to start and the tech2 shows it is not changing (only showing run position) then you know

 

[Dadnali68]

99% of the time a cel is smog equipment related and would not prevent the vehicle from starting or running (with the key).
very rare cases there could be something, but not much
what a cel "may" do is prevent a "auto start", or prevent "cruise" from working, that's sort a fail safe because it doesn't know if you are aware of whatever issue may be happening, or if the cel light is burnt out, etc
for instance if it was overheating..... and it caused a error on the dic such as low power, pull over and shut off engine then it would not auto start
or if there was a low oil level warning, cat inefficiency, etc things like that.... it just defaults to no auto start.
there could still a ignition issue though until it is ruled out, a tech2 would tell you what (it see's) as the key position in the case of no start.
for instance of you are turning it to start and the tech2 shows it is not changing (only showing run position) then you know

Know of a good place to pick up a clone or a used real tech2? Might not be the worst idea to pick one up, I have an 08 cobalt as well it would work with.

 

[Doubeleive]

Know of a good place to pick up a clone or a used real tech2? Might not be the worst idea to pick one up, I have an 08 cobalt as well it would work with.

well.......they have gone up in price they used to be $300, now they are $400 and a pinch. some online places that sell them are SUPER sketchy
there was a reliable site called chinacardiag but they went under and now there are copycats that I would say are likely unsafe
I would say this one is a relatively safe buy, not too many places will cover you but ebay does if it does not arrive or is defective

Tech2 II scanner+candi module GM/SAAB/OPEL/SUZUKI/ISUZU/HOLDEN Free Shipping | eBay

GM TECH2 Scanner Support 6 Softwares (for GM,OPEL,SAAB ISUZU,SUZUKI,HOLDEN)for GM Tech 2 diagnostic tool. Tech2 Full Set With All the Accessories Without Plastic Box. For Gm tech2 product Features. Holden For HOLDEN-English 139.000 1999-2012.

www.ebay.com

 

[mikez71]

Starter relay? I know you said fuse box was replaced... not sure if that comes populated with new fuses/relays?

 

[Dadnali68]

well.......they have gone up in price they used to be $300, now they are $400 and a pinch. some online places that sell them are SUPER sketchy
there was a reliable site called chinacardiag but they went under and now there are copycats that I would say are likely unsafe
I would say this one is a relatively safe buy, not too many places will cover you but ebay does if it does not arrive or is defective

Tech2 II scanner+candi module GM/SAAB/OPEL/SUZUKI/ISUZU/HOLDEN Free Shipping | eBay

GM TECH2 Scanner Support 6 Softwares (for GM,OPEL,SAAB ISUZU,SUZUKI,HOLDEN)for GM Tech 2 diagnostic tool. Tech2 Full Set With All the Accessories Without Plastic Box. For Gm tech2 product Features. Holden For HOLDEN-English 139.000 1999-2012.

www.ebay.com

Thank you! I'll pick one of these up once I get some extra coin. Good call on using ebay for buyers protections!

 

[Dadnali68]

Starter relay? I know you said fuse box was replaced... not sure if that comes populated with new fuses/relays?

Starter relay was replaced, but I would like to carry a spare anyway. Does anyone have a part # for that relay?

 

[Doubeleive]

Starter relay was replaced, but I would like to carry a spare anyway. Does anyone have a part # for that relay?

there are only a couple different relays in the fuse box which can just be swapped around if needed, failures are somewhat rare

 

[Fless]

Starter relay was replaced, but I would like to carry a spare anyway. Does anyone have a part # for that relay?

Recommend you familiarize yourself with a few quality online vendors. If nothing else, parts lookup can be easier. If you have questions about if a specific relay matches yours, compare the pin diagrams that are on the parts.

 

[Gearz]

No security light flashing I assume not so I would look into the neutral safety switch
on the transmission and see if the inputs are correct. If it thinks it's in the wrong gear it won't start.