Intake manifold repair help.

[unabashedpraise]

1999 suburban k1500, 5.7 vortec

I think I'm doing pretty good. However I have a couple issues. This is it's current state. I'm going to be replacing spider injectors, plugs, wires, and distributor... And everything else that breaks along the way.

Current issues:
-what is the best obd2 program for checking retard for the new distributor?

-How the heck are you supposed to get the ac brace out of the way?

-what the heck is part number 23 called? Mine snapped like a dry twig.

Thanks.




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[east302]

For the CMP retard, I used a BAFX model 34t5 OBD Bluetooth adapter and CarGaugePro or DashCommand android app. I couldn't find one that worked with and iPad (the one advertised by Palmer Performance definitely did not ) so I bought a cheap RCA android tablet from Walmart. For the DashCommand, you have to buy the extra extended PIDs package for your year model.

After flopping the compressor over, you have to loosen the bolts that hold the bracket on and pry it forward to allow the lower intake to be removed. It doesn't have to come out much, but will shift enough. Here's a video that may help, he does the compressor bracket at around 7:00...

You may have done it right, but when the compressor is folded over make sure you remove the AC hoses from the clamp at the alternator. I didn't, snapped a hose and my refrigerant said goodbye.

The vacuum line (23) looks like the one that goes over to the solenoid on the firewall. This controls the heater valve, so when you select the AC temperature dial to "max" it closes the heater valve and shuts off coolant flow to the heater core for better cooling. You could probably get some vacuum line and make it work, just route it away from any direct heat. Or, just splice the breaks together with it.

When you swap the injectors, don't forget the two little o-rings that go on the fuel lines at the firewall.

Hope this helps.




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[east302]

One more thing, I want to say there was another bolt on that AC bracket that had to come out to get it to shift. I think it was down at the bottom and wasn't shown in that video. I think I had to take off the front skid plate...it was buried up in there at the very bottom of the bracket.


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[Kenny D]

One more thing. When you go back on with the lower intake, be sure to run your torque sequence over and over until all the bolts stay tight. When I did mine a while back, it took about 5 rounds before all the bolts stayed torqued. I learned the hard way. I had the leaky gasket like the 5.7 did and I replaced the gasket. Did everything according to the repair manual and did the sequence twice. I didn't make it 10 miles before the gasket failed and ended up costing me 2 new heads and another weekend working on the beast. Sorry for the long story, but trust me, do the sequence UNTIL all the bolts hold torque.

 

[Kenny D]

One more thing, I want to say there was another bolt on that AC bracket that had to come out to get it to shift. I think it was down at the bottom and wasn't shown in that video. I think I had to take off the front skid plate...it was buried up in there at the very bottom of the bracket.


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The GM engineers from that generation must have had a sadistic side to them. They put fasteners in places that contourtionist could only reach.

 

[unabashedpraise]

For the CMP retard, I used a BAFX model 34t5 OBD Bluetooth adapter and CarGaugePro or DashCommand android app. I couldn't find one that worked with and iPad (the one advertised by Palmer Performance definitely did not ) so I bought a cheap RCA android tablet from Walmart. For the DashCommand, you have to buy the extra extended PIDs package for your year model.

After flopping the compressor over, you have to loosen the bolts that hold the bracket on and pry it forward to allow the lower intake to be removed. It doesn't have to come out much, but will shift enough. Here's a video that may help, he does the compressor bracket at around 7:00...

You may have done it right, but when the compressor is folded over make sure you remove the AC hoses from the clamp at the alternator. I didn't, snapped a hose and my refrigerant said goodbye.

The vacuum line (23) looks like the one that goes over to the solenoid on the firewall. This controls the heater valve, so when you select the AC temperature dial to "max" it closes the heater valve and shuts off coolant flow to the heater core for better cooling. You could probably get some vacuum line and make it work, just route it away from any direct heat. Or, just splice the breaks together with it.

When you swap the injectors, don't forget the two little o-rings that go on the fuel lines at the firewall.

Hope this helps.




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That video shows a bracket hindsight the rear of the power steering pump on. That's exactly what I needed!

I'll look into the apps for Android.

May have to buy some vacuum line. Can't find that part anywhere.


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[unabashedpraise]

The GM engineers from that generation must have had a sadistic side to them. They put fasteners in places that contourtionist could only reach.

Truth. Or they just assumed that an engine disassembly was required for random minor repairs.


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[unabashedpraise]

This is helpful stuff. Thanks. I'll post up with progress/more issues.


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[east302]

Do you have the torque specs for upper and lower intakes?


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[unabashedpraise]

Do you have the torque specs for upper and lower intakes?


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My Haynes manual has them. I think. Not sure about this upper and lower unless they are talking about the plenum and intake.

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[unabashedpraise]

Should I worry about looking at anything specific while the valve covers are off?


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[east302]

Here are the torque patterns and tightening sequences...

Lower intake

Upper intake

Note that the evap purge solenoid is also 89 in-lbs and requires the thread sealant like the other manifold studs...

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[east302]

Should I worry about looking at anything specific while the valve covers are off?


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I didn't, just made sure that no debris fell in.

As for the lifter valley under the lower intake, if it's full of oil crud it may be best to leave it alone lest you accidentally get oil debris into the passages, potentially clogging the oil pickup screen.

Others may know of a way to get it cleaned if it is really gunked up.




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[unabashedpraise]

Here are the torque patterns and tightening sequences...

Lower intake

Upper intake

Note that the evap purge solenoid is also 89 in-lbs and requires the thread sealant like the other manifold studs...

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Fantastic!

Do you have the part numbers for the fuel rings and spacers?


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[unabashedpraise]

I didn't, just made sure that no debris fell in.

As for the lifter valley under the lower intake, if it's full of oil crud it may be best to leave it alone lest you accidentally get oil debris into the passages, potentially clogging the oil pickup screen.

Others may know of a way to get it cleaned if it is really gunked up.




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Shop vac?


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[east302]

I switched to the MPFI while I was in there (Delco 217-3029) which came with all gaskets, o-rings and spacers. But, when ordering I didn't know it came with everything so also picked up a kit...

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=88862&cc=1303614&jnid=454&jpid=2

Lucky I did, I dropped a spacer and never found it so was glad I had the spare.




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[east302]

Shop vac?


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Probably so, if you're careful since the passages may have gunk on top of them. The lifter guide retainer tray can be removed for better access. Those bolts are torqued to 18 ft-lbs.

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[unabashedpraise]

Love these alldata pages!


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[east302]

Subscriptions are not bad, $20-something per year per vehicle. I've gotten a lot of use from them.

Alldatadiy.com


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[wolfeman2120]

looks like your doing the lower intake, my advice on the lower intake bolts is just to hand tighten them and give them an 1/8th of a turn once they tighten up. I've broken a couple in the head before. they are just aluminium and can snap pretty easily.

As for the distributor, you don't necessarily need OBD2 to set the timing right. If you got a good quality distributor like I did from Standard Motor there should be a small arrow pointing to where the rotor should be for TOC. Then just rotate the engine to TOC and you should be fine. You can then twist the distributor a tiny bit here and there if your getting a code. Mine ran perfectly once I figured this out.

The AC bracket if I recall correctly has 3 bolts and 1 nut holding it in place. one bolt is near the bottom and can be a pain to get to. removing the fan could make it easier but who has that tool lying around. Then you can just wiggle the bracket forward enough to pull the intake off.

getting the intake out will be kinda hard if it was sealed in good, so you may want some help getting it out.

I know getting it back on was tricky too. I removed the oil pressure sensor on the back by the distributor. You will likely want someone to help you put it in cause the angles and wires can make things a nightmare when doing it yourself and you have RTV on the front and rear that needs to be pressed down evenly.