Idea On Cost To Replace 5.3 Engine? 2015 Yukon XL

[BringTheNoise]

I bought a 2015 GMC Yukon XL with 207k miles and drove it four times for less than 100 miles and the check engine light started flashing last Tuesday night. It was poring down rain and I was headed up about an incline on i75. The check engine light started flashing and I didn’t notice anything different in the way the car was driving. I pulled over into a gas station and plugged in my ODB reader. No Check engine light remained on but the reader showed a P0307 fault for a misfire in cylinder 7. Drove it another mile home and it was pouring rain. I was headed down an incline and had it in the RWD/4 wd flex mode where it’ll switch in and out of. It was lurching and shaking when I slowed down. I put it in park and the engine was sputtering. I shut it off and called this mechanic that I had booked to replace the struts and shocks. I told him what was going on and he said to just drive it to the shop about four or five miles away. The car drove rough but wasn’t terrible and seemed better at 40 plus mph of less noticeable.

The mechanic couldn’t get to it until Friday and pulled the spatk plug and it was soaked in fuel. I’m my head I figured maybe the injector stuck but I’m not a mechanic in the slightest degree. I brought new spark plugs and wires and same constant misfire. He did a compression test and it was at 0 psi in #7. He said I need a motor as with 207k he said it’s not worth trying to tear apart And fix.

I’m really upset at myself for not getting it checked out more thorough. I work at a dealership and took it on trade in. I always liked these and my I wanted something that looked a little fresher then my 2006 Infiniti. The used car manager said I could have one of the mechanics check it out before I bought it as he was going to charge me $381 for an inspection through the dealership. I went to a mechanic that had that same generation Yukon and figured he’d be the best to check it out. I paid him $50 to do a quick inspection. He said I needed to replace shocks and struts but it seemed solid otherwise. I signed an As Is form and know I’m SOL but the used car manager is a “friend” and I’ve worked at the dealership 13 years so I thought I’d at least let him know what happened. He shamed me and told me I was on my own. I asked if he could let me trade it towards something else and told me he wouldn’t give me anything unless I replaced the motor. I’ve sold many of cars that blew up soon after the owner bought it even as Id and we always either took back the car or fixed it or let them buy something else. I know I’m not owed anything but I’m just really hurt that I’m just getting the middle finger here.

But I don’t know what to do and kind of just want to fold this terrible hand before I lose more and more money. I don’t think I could ever trust this car even if I put a new motor in it. Im just worried the transmission will go next. How much should I expect to pay to replace the motor?

Someone told me to take it to the gmc dealer and get a legit diagnosis but I really don’t want to just keep losing money when I’ve realized that 207k miles just is more the. Most cars last. I redid all the wheels and made it look really good but I should have checked it out further before going that. I’ve got a good looking 3 ton paper weight I guess

Thank you for reading and I value and appreciate any knowledge and/or advice here.

 

[tritron]

I bet you need ignition coils and spark plugs replaced You could diy it did pull codes

 

[buckwild27]

I bet you need ignition coils and spark plugs replaced You could diy it did pull codes

Plugs and coils don't fix a 0 psi compression.

 

[OR VietVet]

You have two choices. Either get rid of it and lick your wounds or have a qualified tech/shop diagnose the actual problem. I would want to know WHY it has "0" compression in cylinder #7. Also, sounds like the problem came about after driving for a few miles. The truck may well have needed struts and shocks and was running fine but did that tech check for codes and history? That is a quick check and easily done in a realm of time for $50.

ANY inspection is only going to tell you what is happening NOW and what the scanner shows NOW.

Yes, you made a mistake by throwing looks $ at it before you had enough miles on it to see what happens.

After finding out correct diagnostics, then make a decision about an engine replacement. If you decide to keep the truck and do an engine, you might want to consider a transmission at same time. Lots of overlap labor there. Maybe @NickTransmissions can chime in with his thoughts on that transmission.

 

[buckwild27]

Those wheels and front clip would look sweet on my 2018 sierra.

 

[BringTheNoise]

I bet you need ignition coils and spark plugs replaced You could diy it did pull codes

I was hoping that so I bought new ones and still no action in 7. I love the way this truck looks and keep going back and forth between replacing the engine or buying something else. I’ve just realized I can’t truly afford to own this car. There are so many things that are going bad or are bad. It somehow still has the original transmission. Do I know that thing is on borrowed time. I’ve never tried driving it in weather that needs 4x4 so I have no idea how the transfer case is truly or the differentials for that matter. If I put an engine in it and had half a brain I’d sell it immediately and try and get some of my money back but I know I’ll want to drive it if I do that.

The Previous owner won’t return a phone call or text or email (not a good sign).

 

[buckwild27]

I was hoping that so I bought new ones and still no action in 7. I love the way this truck looks and keep going back and forth between replacing the engine or buying something else. I’ve just realized I can’t truly afford to own this car. There are so many things that are going bad or are bad. It somehow still has the original transmission. Do I know that thing is on borrowed time. I’ve never tried driving it in weather that needs 4x4 so I have no idea how the transfer case is truly or the differentials for that matter. If I put an engine in it and had half a brain I’d sell it immediately and try and get some of my money back but I know I’ll want to drive it if I do that.

The Previous owner won’t return a phone call or text or email (not a good sign).

Best paint that thing yellow cause you got a lemon. And the previous owner is still running from it.

 

[Fless]

You're throwing the baby out with the bath water. It shouldn't cost that much to have a competent mechanic diagnose 0 compression in a cylinder. It could be a broken spring or something wrong with the valve.

 

[OR VietVet]

Like @Fless and I said, start with why there is zero compression. You are running at the worst case scenario when you should walk to proper diagnostics.

 

[usaf27]

Have another well known mechanic look at it.

 

[tom3]

Zero compression on one cylinder would have to indicate a valve issue - unless there's a big hole in the engine block. Get someone to pull the valve cover and find out what's going on.

 

[adamztrucking]

It sounds like you're in a tough situation with the 2015 Yukon XL. Given the misfire and the 0 PSI compression in cylinder 7, it's understandable that the mechanic recommended replacing the engine, especially with the vehicle already having 207k miles. Here are a few things to consider:

1. Cost of Engine Replacement:
The cost of a new or remanufactured engine for a Yukon can range anywhere from $4,000 to $7,000 or more, depending on the source and labor costs. If you opt for a used engine, you might find a lower price, but you'll have to balance that with the risk of inheriting other problems. Factor in the labor costs on top of that, which can be substantial.

2. Further Diagnosis:
While it's frustrating to keep spending money, getting a second opinion or more thorough diagnosis from a GMC dealer could confirm whether an engine replacement is truly the best option or if there are alternative repairs that could be more cost-effective. This would also give you a clear idea of the total scope of the vehicle's mechanical health, including the transmission.

3. Transmission Concerns:
With 207k miles, the transmission could indeed be a concern in the future, especially if you end up replacing the engine. If you already have doubts about trusting the vehicle, the risk of future transmission issues might reinforce your hesitation about investing further.

4. Trade-In or Sell:
If you feel like you're ready to move on from this vehicle, you could try selling it as-is or trading it in at a dealership, but you'd likely get very little without fixing the engine. Another option would be to sell it privately as a project vehicle for someone who is willing to put in the time and effort to replace the engine themselves.

5. Next Steps:
Given that you're working at a dealership and have some insight into how these situations are handled, you could continue pushing for a more reasonable trade-in or assistance from your "friend" at the dealership. However, if that's not working out, moving on to cut your losses might save you from further financial strain.

In short, you're at a crossroads between investing in the vehicle or moving on. If you're concerned about future issues and feel like it's not worth the risk, letting go now might be the best option. If you decide to move forward with repairs, a clear diagnosis from a dealership could help prevent further surprises.

 

[BringTheNoise]

Best paint that thing yellow cause you got a lemon. And the previous owner is still running from it.

Lol that’s true

 

[BringTheNoise]

It sounds like you're in a tough situation with the 2015 Yukon XL. Given the misfire and the 0 PSI compression in cylinder 7, it's understandable that the mechanic recommended replacing the engine, especially with the vehicle already having 207k miles. Here are a few things to consider:

1. Cost of Engine Replacement:
The cost of a new or remanufactured engine for a Yukon can range anywhere from $4,000 to $7,000 or more, depending on the source and labor costs. If you opt for a used engine, you might find a lower price, but you'll have to balance that with the risk of inheriting other problems. Factor in the labor costs on top of that, which can be substantial.

2. Further Diagnosis:
While it's frustrating to keep spending money, getting a second opinion or more thorough diagnosis from a GMC dealer could confirm whether an engine replacement is truly the best option or if there are alternative repairs that could be more cost-effective. This would also give you a clear idea of the total scope of the vehicle's mechanical health, including the transmission.

3. Transmission Concerns:
With 207k miles, the transmission could indeed be a concern in the future, especially if you end up replacing the engine. If you already have doubts about trusting the vehicle, the risk of future transmission issues might reinforce your hesitation about investing further.

4. Trade-In or Sell:
If you feel like you're ready to move on from this vehicle, you could try selling it as-is or trading it in at a dealership, but you'd likely get very little without fixing the engine. Another option would be to sell it privately as a project vehicle for someone who is willing to put in the time and effort to replace the engine themselves.

5. Next Steps:
Given that you're working at a dealership and have some insight into how these situations are handled, you could continue pushing for a more reasonable trade-in or assistance from your "friend" at the dealership. However, if that's not working out, moving on to cut your losses might save you from further financial strain.

In short, you're at a crossroads between investing in the vehicle or moving on. If you're concerned about future issues and feel like it's not worth the risk, letting go now might be the best option. If you decide to move forward with repairs, a clear diagnosis from a dealership could help prevent further surprises.

Thank You for taking the time to give me such detailed advice. This has been very stressful and these are all great points. I talked to the bank today and a lawyer. It’ll be interesting to see what happens especially with me being an employee. I’m worried they will retaliate against me. At least I know where I stand with the company I guess.

 

[Geotrash]

I'll add some perspective from a longtime owner of these trucks to weigh in your thinking. My first was a 2002 Suburban that now has 310K on it. I know this because I sold it to a friend with 228K on it and he's still driving it every day. Our '07 has 248K, and our '12 has 143K. There are lots of guys here with 350K+ with at least a few here running them past 400K on their original engines, with AFM still active. And lots of examples on the interwebz of these things going well beyond 500K.

Yours looks like a beautiful, well-kept example. It's unfortunate to me that the dealer won't help take care of one of their own, but that's a topic for another day. My guess is that the truck didn't come into the dealer with the problem, but that the timing of the problem developing is just unfortunate. That said, I think it's well worth pulling the valve cover to have a look.

If the engine isn't knocking, then my guess is you have a broken valve spring. You will be able to see this with the valve cover off. If the engine *is* knocking, then I would suspect a collapsed lifter and/or bent pushrod. Both are fixable with the engine in the vehicle if you're at all handy and it hasn't been run too long in that condition. The cam can receive damage and need replacing if so, but that can also be done with the engine in the vehicle. Lots of documentation here from others on how to do this, and plan on a long weekend for a first-timer if you have the tools. If it is indeed just the valve spring and there is no damage to the piston or valve then you can replace the spring without removing the head. A cheap inspection camera can help you decide.

Yes, the transmission will eventually need attention, but that could be 1K or 100K from now - longer if the PO had any work done on it already. But either way, investing some money now to get it back in good running order will net you the best, most comfortable family hauler/road trip cruiser/camping rig on the planet. If I were in your shoes knowing what I know about these, I wouldn't hesitate to invest in it. Check back in here with whatever you decide and we can help you either get through it, or offer perspective on other things worth doing "while you're in there".

 

[vcode]

FWIW, my friend just had the engine in her 14 Suburban replaced. $8500 at a local shop. Dealer wanted $11K.

 

[fozzi58]

You need to go to a mechanic that know how to scope the cylinder. If he's worth his mettle, he should be able to see if the valve is open and causing the 0 psi or if there is a hole in the piston.

 

[2015TahoePPV]

#7 is one of the Active Fuel Management cylinders (#1, #7, #4, #6) so you likely have a collapsed lifter there. Take the valve cover off and manually move your rocker arms on that cylinder to confirm (or have a mechanic do it).

Being a couple of months into my engine swap on my Tahoe, I can offer some financial insights.

-There are tools available to "unstick" your lifter, which you could possibly get away with, but you'd have to program out the AFM immediately or you'd be starting over again shortly. This is going to require the removal of the intake/ direct injection/ injectors, and could probably be accomplished for around $1000 or less. I've seen examples of the lifters failing even after being programmed out, so think of this as a temporary solution at best.

-pull the heads/ valve job/ Delete AFM. You're looking at around $5k, but I didn't want to spend $5K on a 200k mile engine.
-lower mile junkyard engine. This would be a complete pull out, then labor to reinstall. A 130K mile engine in my neck of the woods is around $2000, and the local shop that I trust wanted 30 hours of labor (@$100/hr) to do the job, so $5K.

-reman engine. I went this rounte with a deleted reman engine for $4k, and am doing the labor myself.

Either way, you're probably in for a bit of a ride, so buckle up. Good luck!

 

[2015TahoePPV]

Thank You for taking the time to give me such detailed advice. This has been very stressful and these are all great points. I talked to the bank today and a lawyer. It’ll be interesting to see what happens especially with me being an employee. I’m worried they will retaliate against me. At least I know where I stand with the company I guess.

You're going to end up unemployed if you rock the boat on a wholesale purchase from your employer. You won't win.

There's a reason they put "as is" on that stuff, consider this a life lesson and move on. (or at least go out spectacularly, lol)

 

[RET423]

I would check out the driver side head, I think that's where your problem is; if the oil pressure is still strong that is; the leaking injector may have just washed the cylinder wall down & once that's fixed the rings will come back around

This is the kind of rig I buy for nothing because people are afraid to pull heads, but a DOD/VVT delete for the cost of the parts & the head repaired will probably net another 125k out of that engine