I knew I bragged too much on my Z71

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iamdub

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You are correct. I have already looked up all the needed parts and have plans to do the major a/c overhaul, when and if the system has a problem. I am going to do my inspection process tomorrow. My girl has given me strict orders to get the grass cut, front and back yards, while the temps are low. I sitting at 57 degrees right now. Also have to do my dry rub on some sirloin and tri tip steaks for grilling later today for our surf and turf dinner plans here. I think my a/c noise inspection will be tomorrow and my trailer light concerns as well, since she will be here to run the lights while I am under the back of rig. I have another thread started about that concern.

I don't recall if it was with the '800 or '900, but there's an actuator on top of the plenum (maybe the one in question?) that, with a few easy tricks, is replaceable without all the hassle outlined in the shop manual. I'm pretty sure I recall someone posting pics and describing how to do it. It might be something as minor as low headroom and a 7mm (or is it 8mm? I always use a 9/32") nut driver bit in a 1/4" box end ratchet is the trick.

One of these:

s-l1600.jpg


In something like this:

09225557.jpg


It makes for a really low-profile nut driver. I use such a setup at work for one specific task. I have a zip tie on the shank of the bit that extends through the ratchet wrench. I had planned on drilling the bit to press a roll pin through to lose the zip tie and make it even more low-profile. But I like being able to easily remove the bit as needed.
 

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I don't recall if it was with the '800 or '900, but there's an actuator on top of the plenum (maybe the one in question?) that, with a few easy tricks, is replaceable without all the hassle outlined in the shop manual. I'm pretty sure I recall someone posting pics and describing how to do it. It might be something as minor as low headroom and a 7mm (or is it 8mm? I always use a 9/32") nut driver bit in a 1/4" box end ratchet is the trick.

One of these:

View attachment 400436


In something like this:

View attachment 400437


It makes for a really low-profile nut driver. I use such a setup at work for one specific task. I have a zip tie on the shank of the bit that extends through the ratchet wrench. I had planned on drilling the bit to press a roll pin through to lose the zip tie and make it even more low-profile. But I like being able to easily remove the bit as needed.
the actuator bolts should all be 7mm, a couple are 5.5mm
 
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Multnomah Falls
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I have all those sizes and tools in my collection. I have been buying older SK and MAC 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets that I used to use when wrenching in the shops. They don't make them any more and I remember that they felt great while using.
 

iamdub

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the actuator bolts should all be 7mm, a couple are 5.5mm

Thanks. I can never remember. I just know the 9/32" socket works on the 7mm. It's a little loose, but them screws don't require a lot of torque. Now that I have factual numbers, I should add these specific sizes to my Tahoe-specific toolbox.
 
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Just to let you know, I did try to diagnose this yesterday but there was no noise at several different settings.
 

iamdub

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Just to let you know, I did try to diagnose this yesterday but there was no noise at several different settings.

These actuators tend to start out failing intermittently before they completely fail. Yours might've wiped the electrical contacts clean with all of its cycling. Or the gear clicked back to its home position again. For now.
 
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These actuators tend to start out failing intermittently before they completely fail. Yours might've wiped the electrical contacts clean with all of its cycling. Or the gear clicked back to its home position again. For now.
Let's hope so.
 

ivin74

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Just to let you know, I did try to diagnose this yesterday but there was no noise at several different settings.
Mine did the same thing, some days you could hear it clicking and other times I would not hear it for days or even weeks, the issue was very random.

The best time to diagnose it is when you hear the noise. I know that would not be the ideal time but that would rule out buying the actuator and not being the root cause of the problem.

I bit the bullet, bought it, installed it and have not heard any noises since. That was 2 years ago. I've taken several 8hr road trips and no issues yet.
 
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Mine did the same thing, some days you could hear it clicking and other times I would not hear it for days or even weeks, the issue was very random.

The best time to diagnose it is when you hear the noise. I know that would not be the ideal time but that would rule out buying the actuator and not being the root cause of the problem.

I bit the bullet, bought it, installed it and have not heard any noises since. That was 2 years ago. I've taken several 8hr road trips and no issues yet.
Questions: Was the noise you heard coming from right behind the glove box? Which actuator did you replace to fix that noise? Time it took to replace? Was it easy access or PITA access? Thanks.
 
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