I installed E-fans on my 2001

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I highly recommend an OEM harness from a junkyard or even better, @ScottyBoy gets them, cleans and fixes them up and sells them. If he doesn’t chime in here, send him a private message. I went through 2 complete aftermarket harnesses and they kept melting. Once I was left stranded 100 miles from home in 100 degree heat because my truck overheated due to no fans and a melted relay pack. Since installing an OEM one, no issues at all.

Which aftermarket harnesses did you have? i have one from JustChevyTrucks, and I have had nothing but problems with it.
 

Rocket Man

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Which aftermarket harnesses did you have? i have one from JustChevyTrucks, and I have had nothing but problems with it.
I had one from www.ls1fans.com and it melted, left me stranded 100 miles from home in 100 degree temps. I rebuilt it completely with heavier wiring and heavier relays and relay blocks but it started melting both the 60 amp mega-fuse holders I upgraded to. The OEM harness has had no such issues.
 
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I had one from www.ls1fans.com and it melted, left me stranded 100 miles from home in 100 degree temps. I rebuilt it completely with heavier wiring and heavier relays and relay blocks but it started melting both the 60 amp mega-fuse holders I upgraded to. The OEM harness has had no such issues.

i think I may have to go the OEM route, then...
 

UmmScott

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Yeah...that write up about using AC pressure is overly complicated and in my opinion could be gone about a much simpler way.

Just use a pressure Switch, not a transducer. Wire it in series with the wire feeding the relay coil that gets activated with the AC signal.
Fan stays off when ac comes on...high side pressure rises...fan comes on.
Fan stays on till either ac is shut off or till high side pressure drops. (I'd find a switch that closes at 250psi and opens at 200. Seems ideal for automotive)

AND... for you guys that want the fan to shut off when driving down the road this will do that!.
It will eventually shut off at highway speeds and stay off till u get back to stop and go traffic.

No need to mess with more PCM configuration.
A simple switch gets it done :)

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I had one from www.ls1fans.com and it melted, left me stranded 100 miles from home in 100 degree temps. I rebuilt it completely with heavier wiring and heavier relays and relay blocks but it started melting both the 60 amp mega-fuse holders I upgraded to. The OEM harness has had no such issues.
I can confirm that the OEM harness is the way to go! Have not had any more issues. Got one that I pulled from an Avalanche for $20. Wish I had done this in the beginning instead of paying $160 for the BS harness from Just Chevy Trucks.
 

Tonyrodz

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I can confirm that the OEM harness is the way to go! Have not had any more issues. Got one that I pulled from an Avalanche for $20. Wish I had done this in the beginning instead of paying $160 for the BS harness from Just Chevy Trucks.
Don't they just deal with used oem parts?
 

Rocket Man

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I can confirm that the OEM harness is the way to go! Have not had any more issues. Got one that I pulled from an Avalanche for $20. Wish I had done this in the beginning instead of paying $160 for the BS harness from Just Chevy Trucks.
Theirs look even worse than the one I bought from ls1fans.com and way more expensive. Rip off.
 
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Don't they just deal with used oem parts?
As far as the engines they sell, yes...but the harnesses don’t use any oem parts. Cheap relays and cheap breaker switches (instead of fuses). The breaker switches kept activating, preventing my fans from working, so my car would start to overheat, especially on the hottest days. They may also sell some used oem harnesses, but the majority of the harnesses that they sell are made in-house with cheap parts.


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RAMurphy

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Thought I would add a post to this thread. I've been running electric fans on my 2002 Tahoe for over 100,000 miles (currently at 251,000). My setup was initially the flexalite fan and controller. About a year after installing I upgraded the controller to the BB harness. All was well until 3 months ago we were on our way to a family vacation on a very hot day (98 degrees +), got stopped in traffic and my temperatures started climbing. I was able to get out of traffic and things cooled back down. However, each time I stopped the temperatures climbed. If you ever installed the flexalite fans, they are quite loud but they move a lot of air. I knew they were not working because I could not hear them. We finally arrived at our mountain cabin and the trouble shooting began. One of the fans stopped working and was pulling a significant amount of amps and blowing my fuses. Luckily I was able to temporarily hotwire the other fan and was able to get home without any problems. Researched a replacement fan using this site and the web and decided to purchase the Dorman 162054. I should have listened to the reviews and this post. Installed this fan and initially very pleased. Much quieter than the flexalites. However, after a day of use, they stopped working. Blew the 40amp fuses. Replaced the fuses after checking the wiring and these fuses blew the next day. Replaced with 50 amp fuses, yep two days later these fuses blew too. Replaced with a resettable 60 amp fuses. These popped too. Checked the amp draw at this point and was surprised to see the draw when these fans kick on high was well over 60 amps. Sent the fan back and ordered the Dorman 162053 fan and have not had a problem since. Maybe I had a bad fan, but based on what I read I think I made the right choice of going with the Dorman 162053. With the 162053 I'm back down around 30amps when fans kick on high. For those concerned about the fans always kicking on and off with the compressor, I wired in a switch in the green wire a/c control signal so I can turn off that input when I'm driving on the highway or when the temperatures outside are low enough where the fan is not required. Works very effectively. I would also recommend an upgraded alternator - I have a 250amp alternator and I do not see any indications when the fans kick on.
 

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