I can’t get a break I just got this damn thing fixed

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LordWayback

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from the photo to me it looks like the plastic got brittle and broke right where they always break (the weak spot), it looks brownish and discolored like a old one would. if that was a new one that sucks
Either way $70 later
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LordWayback

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well at least you got the "cd" version which means "changed design" which means it was re designed from the original design.
I’m stuck trying to get the inner plastic off the heater core
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LordWayback

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well at least you got the "cd" version which means "changed design" which means it was re designed from the original design.
The 800 409 hp is stuck it’s the wrong connector for rear ac
 

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I’m stuck trying to get the inner plastic off the heater coreView attachment 392228
This is what I am talking about, you put a metal one on there and it will probably not ever come off, to get that piece off that you are stuck on use some long pliers and break the thin plastic piece off that holds the clip in place or just tear it off piece by piece I hate those bastards they never come off like they should
 
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LordWayback

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This is what I am talking about, you put a metal one on there and it will probably not ever come off, to get that piece off that you are stuck on use some long pliers and break the thin plastic piece off that holds the clip in place or just tear it off piece by piece I hate those bastards they never come off like they should
The new connector will not seal against the heater core tube so I’m gonna hook my hoses to my rear heater and use it as a bypass
 
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LordWayback

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I hooked up all the new stuff like it’s supposed to be and coolant sprayed out of the new connector on the heater core side
 

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I hooked up all the new stuff like it’s supposed to be and coolant sprayed out of the new connector on the heater core side
then the connector is not seated properly, I don't recall if the dormans have a o-ring inside if so then it might have gotten pinched, in either case you will have to take the connector off and correct it and try again
 

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then the connector is not seated properly, I don't recall if the dormans have a o-ring inside if so then it might have gotten pinched, in either case you will have to take the connector off and correct it and try again
I changed mine out in the barber shop parking lot. Had to get Dorman from NAPA, as they were open and the closest. I got the plastic parts, not the metal...

I do believe they have an o-ring in them. They did click and seat properly. No leaks. No issues.
 

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that looks scary, you might put that on and never get it off
Ford uses a plastic version of that metal one they are also designed like your fuel line quick disconnect.

So this tool will get it off and it's much easier then the other design with that inner clip
 

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Doubeleive

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Ford uses a plastic version of that metal one they are also designed like your fuel line quick disconnect.

So this tool will get it off and it's much easier then the other design with that inner clip
ya try one of those tools on one of these "T"'s that has been on for 10 years, chances are pretty slim it will come off with it.
what usually happens is it doesn't work, because the plastic is not the same shape it was when new and you fight with it for 2 hours, easier to just use a pair of pliers and break the thin plastic part off and take it off that way
you are not going to re-use the 10 year old connector so may as well do it the easy way.
fuel line connectors are different they use metal and the metal retains it's shape.
 

Joseph Garcia

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As @Doubeleive stated, when I had to replace my Tees, I bought several tools, including the set displayed above, and not one single tool worked to disengage the couplings. I had to use a hacksaw blade and cut the thin pieces of plastic on the couplings to get them off.
 

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As @Doubeleive stated, when I had to replace my Tees, I bought several tools, including the set displayed above, and not one single tool worked to disengage the couplings. I had to use a hacksaw blade and cut the thin pieces of plastic on the couplings to get them off.
a good pair of long slightly curved needlenose pliers work well, you just shark bite at it and the plastic comes off, I'm too frisky with a hacksaw lol there would be cut marks all over
 
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LordWayback

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then the connector is not seated properly, I don't recall if the dormans have a o-ring inside if so then it might have gotten pinched, in either case you will have to take the connector off and correct it and try again
The metal pipe on the heater core is bent
 
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LordWayback

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I haven't, but I refuse to use anything Dorman. Never had anything work well from them.
I run a lot of Dorman parts they’re not my preferred part supplier but it’s what was available
 

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