Hydroboost questions...

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99Yuk

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EDIT: Never mind...I got it.
EDIT2: hehe.. what about ABS, after bleeding the ABS pump, does hydroboost affect ABs functions?

Other than whipple2dr, does anyone else here run hydroboost?
 
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puckhead

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Never heard of it. Is it better than regular fluid? or am i just way off lol
 

puckhead

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Interesting read, thanks for the link! If I had any more mods or maybe towed, i might do it
 

95TwinTT

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I have been running the Hydro Boost for several years. It is just a way to increase the mechanical advantage over vacuum boost. Should not have any affect on the ABS..

What kind of trouble are you having?
 
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99Yuk

99Yuk

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I have been running the Hydro Boost for several years. It is just a way to increase the mechanical advantage over vacuum boost. Should not have any affect on the ABS..

What kind of trouble are you having?

I don't have that mod installed, it was suggested in the 1ton caliper thread. I had heard the word here and there, so today I decided to investigate it a bit more.

Thanks for clearing up the ABS question.
If I understand it correctly, because were making changes above the ABS pump, then it will have to cycle a few times to bleed the air out of it. But that's the only thing to worry about with it.

And I think that Hydro boost is using the power steering pump to provide the braking power instead of vacumn. It looked like the OBS 2500 pickups had this installed as an option?

If I wanted to do this, the only good HB thread on here was from wipple2dr, and jeepers, it looked complicated. I think that a fella could homebrew this like he did, or just buy a kit.

I guess, I'm trying to figure what parts would have to be swapped out to make this work.
 

95TwinTT

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The diesel trucks have used them for a long time, since diesels have no vacuum. I had my first one in a 1979 diesel half ton Chev Pickup.

As far as the ABS goes, yes it must be part of the bleeding procedure. The ABS unit itself works the same with the added pressure. It just thinks you are pushing harder on the pedal.

I bought the kit for mine. I know the master cylinder had to be swapped because of the bore size. Just to know that it is important to have the correct master cylinder to get the best results.

The plumbing is straight forward. It is just a matter of re-routing the power steering fluid. If you are on a budget, it would be best to find a “donor truck”.

I was looking at increasing brake performance and realized that squeezing the disc harder is the same as going to a larger disk. Plus the fact that I was running forced induction, not as much vacuum available. So I have stock brakes with just the hydro boost added. It’s all I need and then some.
 
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99Yuk

99Yuk

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Perfect! You've so answered my questions.

So if a fella wanted to start looking for parts, he would start by looking for a diesel OBS truck, then grab all the parts that you can find from it. Or I can start pricing out new parts from partssource. But at least I know what direction to head in.

Thanks!
 

95TwinTT

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A word of caution……………

I don’t read about concerns of caliper displacement. When these systems come from the factory (with thousands of engineers making caculations), they are matched with master cylinder and caliper and rear brake capacity. So the right amount of brake fluid feeds from the master cylinder to satisfy the brake fluid displacement. It only makes sense.

If there is mixing and matching, going on with ¾ ton calipers and 1 ton calipers, I would think those fluid capacities must be recognized in order to insure the pedal travel will be proper. Yes, No?

I would suggest asking more questions of the experts before bolting it all together.

I have stock front calipers and drums in the rear and I can easily lock them up and send the ABS into the famous pulsing emergency stop. I don’t know how it could stop any faster than that. Just my humble opinion.

Just seems like I read about a lot of folks mixing all kinds of odd combinations of brake components and I can’t believe they are getting their monies worth.
 

AtomicHoe094

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Del, did you need to change out your factory brake pedal when you did the swap? Curious since ive heard the hole sizes are different?
 

95TwinTT

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The brake pedal was not changed. If I undestand it, the change of the master cylinder is because the actuator uses a shorter stroke than the vacuum. The larger bore supplies the same amount of brake fluid and the hydro boost's added power makes it feel the same on the pedal.

It's been quite a while and my memory is getting fuzzy on the swap, but I seem to remember the actuator connection to the pedal may have been changed out. I will see if I can find the paperwork on the kit and see if there was a parts break down..............:)
 

AtomicHoe094

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sweet thanks. This was one thing i wanted to get done before this summer hit and ive been trying to track down all the parts and numbers before ordering anything. I cant justify doing this swap and being some junkyard hoses that are rusted to shit
 
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99Yuk

99Yuk

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sweet thanks. This was one thing i wanted to get done before this summer hit and ive been trying to track down all the parts and numbers before ordering anything. I cant justify doing this swap and being some junkyard hoses that are rusted to shit

Just ask longstand about reusing power steering hoses. :)

Hey what part numbers do you already have? And how soon are you thinking about doing this? I'm kinda interested in this myself.
Thanks.

EDIT: And 95TwinTT, thanks for answering our questions. I probably wouldn't even be contemplating this without your answers! :Handshake:
 
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95TwinTT

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You guys should know that the plumbing on these systems is not a big deal. I had to cut and fit all the hoses on mine.

I used that 3/8” stainless mesh covered high pressure tubing for the feed side and rubber “Transmission oil cooler hose” 3/8” 400 psi, (SAE J1019) for the return lines.

I cut the stainless lines by wrapping tape tight around it and then cutting it with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder. The tape keeps the stainless wrap from unraveling.

The pressure feed from the steering pump goes directly to the brake unit, then daisy chains to the power steering sector. The return lines are just “T’d” together on the return from each.

Most major cities have hydraulic services that carry all the hoses and fittings needed.

Hope this helps……….
 

AtomicHoe094

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haha what about Longstand??

No "part numbers" yet per-say. Im just trying to part it all together to make it work. like i know basically all these chevy truck hydro-boosters will work, its just the mounting plate you'll have to fabricate yourself or get one made up out of alum or steel.. Theres a guy on FSC that sells complete kits, but again, rusty and atomic dont no go together.. but hes asking like 250 plus shipping for everything besides the pedal..

what do you have so far?? and how soon, umm during the winter :) lol how about you?
 

steamroller

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http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewt...=0&postorder=asc&highlight=hydroboost&start=0

If the hydroboost is offset between the mounting bolts then get the brake pedal with it for a bolt in swap, or change out the mounting plate and cut/thread the pushrod that comes with the hydroboost unit to keep the stock pedal.
The attachment point for the pushrod on the pedals is different and the aftermarket kits address this by using their own adapter plate and threading the rod for you.


There are measurements for a plate in this thread by Hquick that allow you to get around cutting/threading the pushrod using thicker material for the adapter while centering the booster in the mounting location

http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewt...0&postorder=asc&highlight=hydroboost&start=20

Not an expert just wanna pass along the info to try save someone a buck or 2 :)
 
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99Yuk

99Yuk

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haha what about Longstand??

No "part numbers" yet per-say. Im just trying to part it all together to make it work. like i know basically all these chevy truck hydro-boosters will work, its just the mounting plate you'll have to fabricate yourself or get one made up out of alum or steel.. Theres a guy on FSC that sells complete kits, but again, rusty and atomic dont no go together.. but hes asking like 250 plus shipping for everything besides the pedal..

what do you have so far?? and how soon, umm during the winter :) lol how about you?

Oh, longstand says
I cut the hoses off the old pressure side pipe and clap it down.. TWICE. it blow up on my face when my friend started the engine.. HAHA
from this thread. That's dangerous stuff.

I don't have any part numbers at all yet. I'm just starting this week. I was hoping to get part numbers from you! HAHA I was going to start up mods again in the spring. I'm done now for winter, getting the truck Krowned. But I'm keeping an eye out for a donar diesel all winter.

It really looks like that mounting plate is an issue if you want to keep your old brake pedal.
 

AtomicHoe094

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Oh, longstand says
I cut the hoses off the old pressure side pipe and clap it down.. TWICE. it blow up on my face when my friend started the engine.. HAHA

LMAO!! haha shit i was hoping for you to help me! TwinTT needs to post up some pics for the dumb ppl over here. or well just me!!

Im thinking of getting a hydro boost from a newer chevy 3500 or something like that. i was hoping to grab on in a yr range from 00 on up.
Also buying one of these things brand new is a pretty damn pricey. but you get good results with lotss of money lol
 
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99Yuk

99Yuk

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...shit i was hoping for you to help me! TwinTT needs to post up some pics for the dumb ppl over here. or well just me!!

Im thinking of getting a hydro boost from a newer chevy 3500 or something like that. i was hoping to grab on in a yr range from 00 on up...

Nope, not just you. I'm gonna need some pics too.

Why you picking the new body style 3500? Why not stick with OBS? What am I missing?
 

95TwinTT

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I don’t think pictures from my truck would help much. I could not use a stock power steering pump because it had to be in an inaccessible place. My power steering pump has no reservoir on it. I have a stand alone reservoir that was from a chev van.

I did find a picture of the unit I used. Same bolt holes on as the vacuum power brake. Just plug and play……… Hope this helps...
 

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