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Is there much difference in the GMT 800& 900 master cyclinder/brake pedal setup. The conversions for the gmt800 are not that expensive and not much involved to fix a hydroboost. Biggest issue I've seen is the failed $6 seal.
Not to take anything away from Wilwoods since there's no doubt they are bad ass brakes, but hydroboost isn't just better leverage it also applies more force. Now if I were to tow heavy or run mountains passes I would run a more aggressive brake pad to suit that situation. I've run my brakes pretty hard since installing them from triple digit numbers and I'm not seeing any fade, the most I got was the smell of brake pads and they still stopped great. My brakes seem to work better the hotter than get. JMO and since we don't have any mountains in TX I got nothing to compare, but it would take a hellevua mountain pass to fade my brakes unless I was doing spirited driving and pushing them. I get the whole heat dissipation and surface area thing..
Force/leverage is pretty much along the same lines. You're pushing the pads against the rotors harder. The problem is, they're the same surface area. Heat can only get disdipated so fast. But drive one of our trucks down a one-lane road about 4-5,000 feet elevation drop in a few miles and you'd be scared with our stock size rotors, I guarantee you. I had literally zero brakes about three quarters of the way down, and if I'd come upon an uphill vehicle as I came around a corner I'd have been screwed. I wasn't driving that fast but as soon as I would let off the brakes I would be doing 30-40 again. So like I said, it depends on what you need from your brakes. In no way would hydroboost have done much but in normal city driving it does help.
