How necessary are lift control arms?

[FromRGV]

I recently ordered 2.5" upper front spacers, and even though they haven't arrived yet, I am considering buying 1.5" lower spacers to lift my truck 4". I noticed the better kits such as the rough country come with control arms and extended sway bar links but plenty kits don't include those items in their 4"-2.5" lift kits.

How necessary are the lifted control arms on a daily driver?

 

[Jonah52]

Anything over 2.5" you're gonna need control arms and differential drop down brackets. You can't stack spacers, you will destroy your differential and cv's

 

[FromRGV]

I installed my 2.5" front spacers today and you are correct, the joints are definetely being pushed to their limit... Do you think the rough country 3-3.5" lift control arms will work with 4 inches of spacers? Those are the highest lift arms I was able to find...

 

[Jonah52]

I have 2.5" of front lift (spacer top and bottom) and my angles are actually really good. I'd be interested to see your angles? In reference to the rough country kit are you actually off-roading it or just for looks?

 

[FromRGV]

Well I drive every day 40 minutes to uni and I jump a curb everyday and park offroad... I'm planning to get muddy tires for that same reason, it gets pretty muddy around here.

I took pictures of the upper control arm joints but the cv joints were about the same...

and here is a after and before* picture... truck is a bit dirty because it has been raining quite a bit.

 

[01Konvict]

With those angles def get some UCAs! Here is a pic of mine with a 7" FTS kit.

 

[Zed 71]

I installed my 2.5" front spacers today and you are correct, the joints are definetely being pushed to their limit... Do you think the rough country 3-3.5" lift control arms will work with 4 inches of spacers? Those are the highest lift arms I was able to find...

You indicate lift control arms. Do you mean spindle? Control arms do not provide any lift.

In any case those ball joints look like they are at a pretty good angle. I will need to check mine, but IMO at on 2.5" they should not be at that angle.

Well I drive every day 40 minutes to uni and I jump a curb everyday and park offroad... I'm planning to get muddy tires for that same reason, it gets pretty muddy around here.

I took pictures of the upper control arm joints but the cv joints were about the same...

Is your rig 2WD?

 

[FromRGV]

I was just wondering if I could go higher than 2.5 without getting adjusted control arms for the height increase by adding a 1.5 bottom strut spacer, but after adding the top 2.5 strut spacers I noticed the joints certainly did change...

I asked an ebay seller about their control arms and they mention they are good for a 2-4 inch lift but I'm not sure how I feel about that product...

My truck is 2wd and I think I might as well get lifted spindles as another member did to his suburban. The lifted spindles wouldn't increase the angle of the joints would they?

 

[01Konvict]

No you cannot go higher than the 2.5" lift now without UCAs

 

[Zed 71]

I was just wondering if I could go higher than 2.5 without getting adjusted control arms for the height increase by adding a 1.5 bottom strut spacer, but after adding the top 2.5 strut spacers I noticed the joints certainly did change...

I asked an ebay seller about their control arms and they mention they are good for a 2-4 inch lift but I'm not sure how I feel about that product...

My truck is 2wd and I think I might as well get lifted spindles as another member did to his suburban. The lifted spindles wouldn't increase the angle of the joints would they?

Since you are 2WD (that is why I asked) you do not have CVs, but still have other issues to address. IMO I still would not do the spacer on top and bottom of the strut. Jack it up, remove the tire and see for your self what/how other components are affected by just increasing the total strut length only. You need to have a proper lift > 2.5".

IMO at a minimum an upper control arm that can maintain the proper alignment (typically caster) and a uniball (instead of ball joint) to minimize binding at full articulation (uniball not so important in your case since you do not take the rig offroad); an extended spindle/knuckle to maintain the proper geometry between the UCA and LCA; and extended sway-bar links.

Do not get extended length UCAs. Those are associated with long travel kits and require more modifications like matching LCAs, extend brake lines, longer bumpstops, limit straps, etc.