High mileage cam swap ?’s

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by Tide, Jun 11, 2019 at 6:50 PM.

  1. Tide

    Tide Member

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    Tossing around the idea of doing a cam swap and permanently deleting the VVT stuff. Just rolled over 155k on my 2013 6.2l.

    What other items should I consider doing while everything is torn apart? I do not want to tear back into this thing a year or two down the road.

    If I were to put a supercharger on would that change what mods I do now? I do not want big loping cam that’ll require a new converter. Definitely want some exhaust note to it but it is an Escalade, not a hot rod.

    BTR seems to have the most complete options for swaps. Any others I should look at?

    Thanks




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  2. ivin74

    ivin74 05 Yukon Denali

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    If you plan on adding a supercharger in the future make sure the cam is compatible with the supercharger.
     
  3. Tonyrodz

    Tonyrodz Resident resident

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    I'd also do the chain and oil pump.
     
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  4. thompsoj22

    thompsoj22 Supporting Member

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    Just my opinion but the cam bearings are wear items and throwing a new cam at it is equal to replacing a crankshaft and keeping the original rod/main bearings and reinstalling them, Sounds scary? I know it is done all the time but it really isnt a "longevity" repair. It is simply the fact that the block must be removed to do the cam bearings "properly". I dont want to rain on your day but i would baby what you have in it's current config and get a salvage longblock and start building your project motor?
     
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  5. Rocket Man

    Rocket Man Sometimes A Dumbass

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    Not really. He’s replacing the cam not because the current one is bad or has worn out the bearings but just because he wants a different cam. When removing a crank, the bearing caps must be removed so you’re already there plus you’re disturbing the bearings. A cam can be R&R’d from the front of the engine without touching the bearings and is done all the time. He will have the timing chain and oil pump off so those should be replaced though. Also, @Tide , you’ll want new, hardened ,pushrods and possibly dual valve springs as well as some quality Vitron valve guides. I bought all my stuff from Vinci High Performance. Roger Vinci consulted with me and I told him exactly what my future mods were including a blower and headers. He helped me make decisions, answered questions through many emails, and helped me through the installation. My engine had over 150k and now about 170k and it is a monster.
     
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  6. thompsoj22

    thompsoj22 Supporting Member

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    I realize cam swaps are done all the time without changing the bearings, do you think it is because the bearings themselves wear at a lesser rate than crank/rod or is it based upon the work involved in replacing them? Anytime you R&R a camshaft you are definnitley "disturbing" the bearings. Im not trying to be right in my opinion just giving one, I do like your engine history as it proves how robust the LS design is and at 135k on mine i simply want to see how far it will go when maintained/operated responsibly. I was young once too and go fast/sound fast meant alot to me also!
     
  7. Cb2004mj

    Cb2004mj TYF Newbie

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    BTR is great to deal with, ive done many swaps on LS motors over 150k plus. care must be taken when removing and installing new cam. inspect the bearings carefully best you can. if all looks well, no chunks, gouges, etc etc then move on. have a turbo truck motor with cam and 267k miles stock bearings throughout. these will hold up great IF maintained and cared for properly. as for parts, as mentioned, do oil pump, pickup tube O-ring, camshaft retainer plate seal, valve seals when you do springs. now pushrods and dual vs single valve springs depends on the cam and size you get. call BTR and they will set you up with exactly what you need and no extra frills. they are great and not pushy on "extra crap" if you will. might i suggest doing the trunnion bearing upgrade for the rockers at the same time. they are a known failure and higher lift cam will expedite that failure. besides that you should be good to go.
     
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  8. PeteCT

    PeteCT Member

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    good thing you don't need to remove the front in order to do that. just pull the radiator.
     
  9. Rocket Man

    Rocket Man Sometimes A Dumbass

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    What do you mean? You have to pull the front of the engine apart. Water pump, timing cover, timing set, harmonic balancer, oil pump, etc.
     
  10. PeteCT

    PeteCT Member

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    You're right.
    I was saying no need to pull bumpers, and etc.
     
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