HELP—2018 Yukon rear pads/rotors DESTROYED after dealer rotation

[Eighthtry]

You said in your initial post that a Yukon SLT is front wheel drive. Wrong. It might be 4 wheel, or all wheel drive, but not front drive.

Rear brakes should not wear out before the front brakes unless you have been towing, then maybe. At 92,000 miles they may need replacement. Do not cut your rotors. Buy quality rotors. No slots. No holes. I stay OEM.

From what I read you have limited knowledge. DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF!!! You have a serious problem. This truck has been in an accident. If it was totaled, then it was likely bought at an auction and repaired for resale. These guys are not always the most transparent about what they are doing/have done. I assume you do not know what was fixed, but there are plenty of damaged areas that will not show in an initial inspection. It was not clear to me what was repaired and is coming loose, but if it is in the rear, that is suspicious.

Get away from this dealer. No more business there. They have a hook in your mouth. Too much conveniently wrong. I'm not saying what he says doesn't need repairing, but lots of coincidental things all of a sudden.

If you do not have the experience you need a tech you can trust to dig into this further. I realize I am spending your money, but I may also be saving a life or two.

I would also get a CARFAX on it. It is $50 or so, but will identify the accident and where the damage was. The dealer should have done, and probably did, a CARFAX when they bought it. I cannot imagine that was not done, but stranger things have happened. I it would not be surprised if that information was withheld from you.

This is a really long shot, but if your dealer failed to disclose this intentionally he may carry some liability. Collecting may be a different problem.

The time bomb may be additional axle damage that is not yet showing. Wheels should be inspected for runout. If one or more is out then that may provide further evidence. If the wheels are custom wheels, then they may have been changed to conceal the damage. Damaged factory wheels may have been changed. Further evidence of an accident can be if new tires were fitted. I realize there are too many miles down the road to come to these conclusions, but you have a problem on your hands, potentially with greater problems to come.

You should also flush your brake system with all the heat they have generated.

Dealers have all the incentive to upsell.

I don't mean to scare the hell out of you. I just am suspicious of what you are saying. It's homework time. This truck is grounded until I find the cause of the brake problems. I would get a second opinion on the ball joint. My 2011Yukon XL Denali went 203,000 miles over 12 years. I did a single pad and rotor change. No front end work ever. Replaced the rear magnarides. I know what can go wrong.

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

@Eighthtry Thank you for your honest advice, I can tell you that I appreciate each one I get.
Being that I am new, and want to align myself with everyone here, there are some things that do make me question the over all condition of this 2018 certified-pre owned vehicle.

 

[Double J]

Historically the brakes on these trucks (Esky’s excluded) are under engineered the size/weight of the truck. Suggest as others have, that the OP have a conversation with your mobile mechanic/indy about possible upgrade to a higher quality or performance brand such as Powerstop for improved longevity but stay with OEM pads/rotors at a minimum. And concur with the recommendation to install new pads and rotors rather than having them lathed out. New material in addition to a brake fluid exchange will give you a new safety baseline for the future

As for the frozen caliper, I have found that that issue has been a more frequent than it should be occurrence, especially with the passenger rear, despite regular slide pin lubrication when the pads are changed out. (But a minor occurrence in those older models when compared to the drivetrain headaches in today’s newer models). The slide pins should also be lubed when the pads are changed out.

I agree a main seal, if that is the cause, should be $800-$1000 +/- If it’s just seeping and something you can live with, it can be something simply done if /when the transmission needs a rebuild (with your mileage, it may be awhile)

Lose that dealer who is trying to shake you down as they are putting the steal in stealership. Is that a Chevrolet or GM dealer? If so, such egregious behavior might be of interest to GM customer ombudsman at corporate and possibly state regulators.

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

@Double J
Thanks for your advice, I like how everyone gets along and recommends there honest advice. I think that’s pretty cool. I have to run an errand in another car, but stay tune. I appreciate all the advice.

 

[Double J]

Wish I was there to help out as it’s a pretty easy job especially without a rust factor…

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

@Eighthtry Yes, you are right it’s a real wheel drive my mistake. Mine is RWD, not 4-Wheel Drive.

I think that with each vehicle you have to adopt, because each car company has different characteristics from another. I will not let this dealership experience ruin my experience with GMC as a company.

So you all want to hear a something interesting, read on. Yesterday Monday the 26, January I got up early and headed off to the dealership to explain the situation to the service manager.

Bad idea, immediately I was greeted with an ugly attitude, like why you here crying over this, type of thing. The lady I talked to was not even a service manager, not sure who she was.

That lady slipped up and told me that the tech is no longer there since this happened. Why, I have no clue. After a long conversation going back and forth, she said, wait here and went to get the real service manager.


He immediately brushed off any responsibility, even after knowing the bad history of mess up at the dealership by his techs.

The first lady and the service manager BOTH admitted the tech did not perform a proper checkup, and kind of went from there. He began to kind of give me that feeling, I’m a tech myself, that I was simply an uneducated guy. Which is true, but the professionalism is non existent there.

They get the truck on a lift and then go to, recommend those repairs I shared here.

This is a GMC dealership and the service advisor told me that the front brakes were still healthy at 5mm.

We baby this Yukon, don’t drive it hard at all, we don’t abuse it or tow anything. But again, I’m not a tech.

I’m going to dump this dealer, only problem is they still need to do warranty on the AC that went out, yes again after repair.

I strongly feel that there is more wrong with this truck, that they aren’t disclosing to me. They sold it awfully cheap too, it was $50,500.00 total, plus interest. It only had 36k miles which is a steal, of course I had to grab it.


It also this buzzing sound coming from rear, which is like near the suspension. They replaced those parts, but that buzzing sound is back again. The service advisor at that time, told me that buzzing sound should not be there.

The thing is, I told the service advisor this. If we fix the brakes and the main issue is not fixed they’re just going to wear out fast again.

I am proud to own this truck, but honestly after 5 years I have not been able to actually enjoy it. Love the Yukon, but this dealership has really given the GMC name a bad reputation.

Moral of the story, get a Carfax. Do not jump in, like I did. Now I’m driving a truck that, who knows what will brake next. It put me in a bind, but again I still love GMC as whole and will get another Yukon down the road.

But regarding this vehicle, I don’t know because of non disclosure what has been replaced or if any body frame damage. Now all these issues arise before the 100k miles, it has me really confused. But like I said, still GMC, can’t hate them for a dealers mess up.

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

@Double J

Thanks for the tip on getting better quality brakes and rotors.

According to them the calipers are good, they said the truck was dragging due to caliper piston pushing out the brake pad due to wear.

Thanks for the tip on estimate for engine oil leak, that way I won’t get over charged.

Regarding calling GM customer service, one agent said that all they can do is schedule a service appointment and then they (GM) calls dealer to see what’s going on. Another agent, said they can’t force the dealer to take responsibility at all.

Before owning the Yukon, we had a 2018 Durango with rocker arms problems in the engine and after days of back and forth with Dodge they finally forced the dealer to replace them.

No worries man, honestly I appreciate the help. Just feels bad when the dealer shanks you, and treats me like that especially when my families I have purchased vehicles totally $96,000k, no loyalty to customers at all.

 

[Ken Casher]

2018 Yukon rear pads/rotors DESTROYED after dealer rotation, fronts still 5mm, constant drag, no noise.

Yukon family. We have a 2018 GMC YUKON we purchased certified-pre owned at a dealership in 2021 with 36k miles. It now has 92k miles.

ISSUES 1: Build quality, loose overhead console with trunk opening door was loose fixed. It was not fixed properly as it’s now loose again.

ISSUE 2: After getting high insurance rates, I called my insurance only to have them tell me this truck was in a wreck that the dealer failed to tell me. Now I have to pay more for insurance. Lucky me.

ISSUE 3: AC went out, fixed under extended warranty, now it stopped cooling.

ISSUE 3: Rims were scratched during tire rotations: Dealer fixed them.

ISSUE 4: Had oil change and tire rotations done.

Wednesday I’m driving all normal all of a sudden the brakes are curbing against the metal. Then I notice smoking coming from the rear brakes.

I took it to dealer Thursday only to have the service advisor to tell me the rear brakes are completely destroyed along with the rotors. WOW.

The truck brakes were fine no issue before I took it in.
It feels like the truck rear brakes are dragging the truck, like holding it from rolling smoothly.

Now dealer wants to sell me a new brakes with rotors for $1,100.00!

Anyone else dealt with this?

Service advisor told me the front brakes are fine still at 5mm. How can the rear be completely abolished, when I don’t tow or load anything heavy on it. Considering this is a front wheel drive vehicle. The the main brake is at the front, not back. Truck still dragging of of today and have no braking from back at all, all in a couple of days after tire rotations.

My 2001 Tahoe LS 4x4 had 210k miles when i bought it 8 years ago. It has 320k now and still going strong. It was made in Canada so it has dual piston rear calipers. I never have to change the front pads. I put new rotors and padsd on it last year. I changed the front pads but they had plenty of life left. The same year Tahoe made here has single piston rear calipers.

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

@Ken Casher

Thanks for sharing, I know other members report longer pads. Still love the Yukon. Will an independent mechanic be able to tell me if there is frame damage? I’m still going to get a carfax too.

 

[Doubeleive]

shh....t I'm lucky if I get a year and half out of premium ceramic pads, but I drive these things I don't waste my time sitting behind the wheel
most people are petrified to ride with me lol

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

@Doubeleive Haha, I can tell you enjoy your vehicles, nothing wrong with that.

 

[MrMonte]

Did you find out what the accident the insurance company said it had? If it was sold as a certified vehicle & the accident wasn't disclosed there should be some liability but too much time may of passed.

Brake life varies greatly with driving style but getting close to 100K miles is pretty good. There are places that do full vehicle inspections that are usefull before buying a used one. You should take your Yukon to one to see what you are really dealing with.

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

@swathdiver thanks man, for the advice.
The Yukon is running again smoothly, finally. Forum family, I need to take the truck to dealer for workmanship warranty performed under GMC Protection Plan Platinum. I know everyone has different opinions, if they can’t fix the AC, after second time. How does that work?

Also there is a buzzing coming from the suspension, they fixed it under the same extended warranty but it’s bussing again. Any idea what that is?

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

@MrMonte Yes, I called the insurance company they said they couldn’t tell me exactly where it had been wrecked. I don’t understand why they have to be so secretive, what if it’s a safety concern.

 

[Rygrego]

2018 Yukon rear pads/rotors DESTROYED after dealer rotation, fronts still 5mm, constant drag, no noise.

Yukon family. We have a 2018 GMC YUKON we purchased certified-pre owned at a dealership in 2021 with 36k miles. It now has 92k miles.

ISSUES 1: Build quality, loose overhead console with trunk opening door was loose fixed. It was not fixed properly as it’s now loose again.

ISSUE 2: After getting high insurance rates, I called my insurance only to have them tell me this truck was in a wreck that the dealer failed to tell me. Now I have to pay more for insurance. Lucky me.

ISSUE 3: AC went out, fixed under extended warranty, now it stopped cooling.

ISSUE 3: Rims were scratched during tire rotations: Dealer fixed them.

ISSUE 4: Had oil change and tire rotations done.

Wednesday I’m driving all normal all of a sudden the brakes are curbing against the metal. Then I notice smoking coming from the rear brakes.

I took it to dealer Thursday only to have the service advisor to tell me the rear brakes are completely destroyed along with the rotors. WOW.

The truck brakes were fine no issue before I took it in.
It feels like the truck rear brakes are dragging the truck, like holding it from rolling smoothly.

Now dealer wants to sell me a new brakes with rotors for $1,100.00!

Anyone else dealt with this?

Service advisor told me the front brakes are fine still at 5mm. How can the rear be completely abolished, when I don’t tow or load anything heavy on it. Considering this is a front wheel drive vehicle. The the main brake is at the front, not back. Truck still dragging of of today and have no braking from back at all, all in a couple of days after tire rotations.

I can pretty much assure you at 92,000 miles these are not the original front brake pads. I am at 97,000 miles on my Yukon and have just started my 3rd front set and second rear set. Just because they are GM pads does not mean they are the original pads. Everything you have mentioned is totally normal. The brake squealers had to have been making some noise.

 

[MrMonte]

I can pretty much assure you at 92,000 miles these are not the original front brake pads. I am at 97,000 miles on my Yukon and have just started my 3rd front set and second rear set. Just because they are GM pads does not mean they are the original pads. Everything you have mentioned is totally normal. The brake squealers had to have been making some noise.

I recently upgraded to Brembo brakes on my 2018 Yukon Denali with 134K miles on the original brakes that still had 40% pad life left. Brake life is so driver dependent.

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

hey fellas, our 18 Yukon has these buzzing noise coming from rear by tire suspension area? I told dealer to fix it under warranty gmc protection plan platinum and I don’t recall what they did. The buzzing did stop but now it came back. Any idea what the buzzing sound is and is this normal?

 

[Doubeleive]

hey fellas, our 18 Yukon has these buzzing noise coming from rear by tire suspension area? I told dealer to fix it under warranty gmc protection plan platinum and I don’t recall what they did. The buzzing did stop but now it came back. Any idea what the buzzing sound is and is this normal?

Suspension air pump if it comes on when you start it, runs for a few seconds and then shuts off

 

[2018YUKONSLT]

Guys, I’m getting ready to battle dealership on GMC plan warranty work that was not properly diagnosed. In August 14, 2024 they replaced condenser (leaking) but they never fixed evac core. Long story short, I already know they going deny my warrant work becuse the protection expired, it has 2 years warranty for AC. Wish me luck.

 

[West 1]

shh....t I'm lucky if I get a year and half out of premium ceramic pads, but I drive these things I don't waste my time sitting behind the wheel
most people are petrified to ride with me lol

I had missed this quote, when Ceramic brakes are worked hard they wear extremely fast. They still work but wear out super quick.
Aggressive driving or racing pushes the Ceramics out of the normal temperature range where they like to work.
In normal driving the Ceramics often last 90,000 miles..

Semi Metalic brakes are the first step up if you want to work brakes hard.
These offer better braking while towing and are a step up towards performance

Carbon Metalics are the material used for Police Duty. I have run these for a few years. They provide great stopping power when needed. Negatives. On cold stops you need to push harder on the brake pedal to build heat to get them working. Not a lot harder but you will notice it at first as will new drivers to your rig. Carbon Metalics are also the hardest on your rotors, they will wear maybe 40% more than with Ceramics.