I have a 2004 Tahoe 4wd. While changing my spark plugs on passenger side I broke off the heater hose from water pump to the firewall I got the connector off but the nipple to the tee is also broke should I replace the tee and connector or is there anyway for my to take the tee off and connect it straight to the firewall
Help!!! Broken heater hose on firewall
- Thread starter kns0517
- Start date
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strutaeng
Full Access Member
Those tees get brittle with age. At least it broke in your time to fix it, not while driving!
They do make a tool to remove them. It's like a split aluminum ring quick connect removal tool.
But just break them off and get replacements. Use GM Genuine replacements. I got mine from Amazon. They are different sizes IIRC.
They do make a tool to remove them. It's like a split aluminum ring quick connect removal tool.
But just break them off and get replacements. Use GM Genuine replacements. I got mine from Amazon. They are different sizes IIRC.
I hate to ask but anyway you might could post pictures of which part there are so many different varieties even if I look up the gm parts I'm so confused
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
If you're interested in durability upgrades:
www.gruvenparts.com
www.gruvenparts.com
Billet GM Heater Core Coolant Tees
Welcome to Gruven Parts, your online home for custom auto parts.
Billet Heater Core Outlets
Welcome to Gruven Parts, your online home for custom auto parts.
strutaeng
Full Access Member
Yes!
Here you go. And there's the removal tool if you want to get that as well.
Those were for my 06 Suburban, but I'm pretty sure it should also fit an 04 model.
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Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
Gruven parts will outlast GM parts in this case.If you're interested in durability upgrades:
Billet GM Heater Core Coolant Tees
Welcome to Gruven Parts, your online home for custom auto parts.Billet Heater Core Outlets
Welcome to Gruven Parts, your online home for custom auto parts.
That removal tool is almost useless for plastic that has been in place for 20 years, easier to just cut them off with some needle nose pliers, the plastic just cracks apart or will tear like it softened up, break the short piece off and then you can just pull them off
No doubt… they may outlast the vehicle
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@kns0517 Moved you here from 2021+section.
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As @Doubeleive stated, the removal tools generally don't work well. I tried every removal tool that I could find, and none of them worked. I just broke them and removed them as he stated. Also, if you don't go with the Gruven recommendation above, purchase only OEM GM Tees.
One method that was discussed in this Forum after I changed my Tees out that seems to work for some folks is to first push the Tee further onto the pipe (not a lot of force) and rotate the Tee on the pipe to break the set position of so many years, and then to squeeze the tabs and pull straight off.
Note: Wear a pair of gloves when working with those Tees, as the firewall insulation is very aggressive, and your hands will be itching for a few days afterwards, if you don't.
One method that was discussed in this Forum after I changed my Tees out that seems to work for some folks is to first push the Tee further onto the pipe (not a lot of force) and rotate the Tee on the pipe to break the set position of so many years, and then to squeeze the tabs and pull straight off.
Note: Wear a pair of gloves when working with those Tees, as the firewall insulation is very aggressive, and your hands will be itching for a few days afterwards, if you don't.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Yup, removal like Joseph Garcia said above. Push in a bit, squeeze tabs and turn left/right while pulling out.
For the price of the Gruven parts you can replace with OE parts a few times every couple years. Their billet "Ts" are nice, but I don't like the use of silicone hose and worm drive clamps to connect them. First off it introduces twice the amount of failure points at the 3 connections (hose with 2 clamps on each connection) then the OE quick connects. Second, in my experience, worm drive clamps tear up silicone type hoses. The softer silicone will also push out through the slots in the clamp if tightened too much. If you go this route, get some spring clamps or fuel injection style clamps.
For the price of the Gruven parts you can replace with OE parts a few times every couple years. Their billet "Ts" are nice, but I don't like the use of silicone hose and worm drive clamps to connect them. First off it introduces twice the amount of failure points at the 3 connections (hose with 2 clamps on each connection) then the OE quick connects. Second, in my experience, worm drive clamps tear up silicone type hoses. The softer silicone will also push out through the slots in the clamp if tightened too much. If you go this route, get some spring clamps or fuel injection style clamps.
bonegunner
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Luckily the wife's '07 broke while she was near home. I pluuged the return hose and took it to a shop, and had both connectors and hoses replaced. I'm too old and am done repairing issues that are not easy. I would recommend replacing both connectors and hoses, as the other connector probably will soon fail as well.
jjohnsonlta
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08 Tahoe and one of mine just broke. Temp got to 260 before I pulled into the garage at home. It was a real battle to get the plastic tees off but I did. Considered getting Dorman or the like but now thinking OEM style. Just saw the billet metal ones and don't know if that would be best considering they way they install or just buy the plastic stock Chevy ones. Any thoughts to each thanks?
Tìt for tat. Def go with Delco over the Dorman. Billet ones depend if you want to spend that much, that is up to you.
I am running new Delcos. And don't over look the one plastic nipple connector on the one heater hose. That sucker gets brittle and snaps off too. So you got 3 pieces you should be replacing actually.
jjohnsonlta
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Thanks for your opinion. I am leaning toward the Delco's now. I'll look at that 3rd piece too.
It's the black piece on the right plugged into the white tee.
Gruven heater core T-connectors
Nice ! Always go metal when you can. https://www.gruvenparts.com/shop-by-car/gm-truck
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
jjohnsonlta
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It's the black piece on the right plugged into the white tee.
Gruven heater core T-connectors
Nice ! Always go metal when you can. https://www.gruvenparts.com/shop-by-car/gm-truck
That third piece is white like the connector on mine. It is held in with a plastic collar on the end of the factory hose. I can't see a way of releasing it to install a new one. Not sure if that comes with a new hose or not I haven't looked.
I might just bite the bullet and go metal.
You can cut the hose and clamp it onto the new nipple. (Use spring clamps).
Or:
Here are the hoses with the pieces installed. Which would not hurt to replace either:
Or:
Go with the metal Gruvens.
OR:
The man with the plan @iamdub got this different brand of metal tees:
Parts link:
Transitional Hose Tee
Transitional hose tees can be used for custom cooling system hose connections.You must choose the measurements for the three hose sizes A, B and C. Choose A and B from the pulldowns and enter C in the space provided. C sizes could be anything from 1/4” to 2". NOTE: If you need a size not listed...
jagsthatrun.com
Build thread with pics:
Growing up doesn't have to suck
I just have the new intake valves. Exhaust valves, I could pull out of my original heads (799), but they are sitting outside due to lack of space. I just looked up LM7 head specs. They have the same size exhaust valve. It was the intake valve that was upsized in the later engines. So I...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
