Heater and Reservoir Hose - Special Tool?

[Scotty54]

There is a 3-way hose that connects to the water pump, coolant reservoir, and heater core at the firewall. The heater core end has a plastic fitting that appears to require a special tool (the other two are hose clamps). I can purchase this hose locally with or without the plastic end piece. Is there a special tool for this fitting?

 

[OR VietVet]

On each side of where they slide on there are windows where you can see the clips heads that hold in place. Squeeze them and twist gently.

 

[Doubeleive]

On each side of where they slide on there are windows where you can see the clips heads that hold in place. snap the thin plastic piece off with some pliers, then they might come off by pulling if not break more of the plastic off until it does.

fixed.

 

[OR VietVet]

Or what Wes said.

 

[swathdiver]

There is a 3-way hose that connects to the water pump, coolant reservoir, and heater core at the firewall. The heater core end has a plastic fitting that appears to require a special tool (the other two are hose clamps). I can purchase this hose locally with or without the plastic end piece. Is there a special tool for this fitting?

You can use the Lisle 22950 or 22960, don't know which is for ours yet. They are made to be released by hand though if memory serves.

 

[Doubeleive]

Unless you are trying to save the connectors for some reason, trust me save yourself the hassle and time and just break them tabs off turns a 2 hour job into a 5 minute job

 

[OR VietVet]

Yes, like Wes said, just replace the fitting. Here is an option as well.

https://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/

 

[Scotty54]

That billet piece from Gruven looks great, but the cheap plastic tee has lasted 180k miles, so I'm okay with the factory part.

If I break the existing plastic connector, do I need the tool to install the new hose end? Or does it just slide into place?

O'Rielly has a Gates replacement assembly (tee plus the 3 hoses) with no plastic connector - just the open hose end. Can the heater core end accept a hose clamp (without slipping)?

 

[OR VietVet]

You have not supplied the year, make and model and engine size so i just looked my 2002 Tahoe up to get a heater core pic. The ends of the tubes are smooth and look to be designed for the clip style hose ends. There is no "nub" for a spot for a hose clamp to grab with.


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

 

[Scotty54]

2006 Tahoe Z71 5.3 bone stock. Sorry about the missing info, and thanks for looking at your heater core.

 

[Fless]

If you replace the heater core Ts with anything other than Gruven, be sure to use AC Delco OE. The aftermarket ones (read: cheap) have been known to die quickly.

The AC Delco ones run about $22 and $26 on Amazon; they are different parts so be sure to get the correct ones.

 

[Fless]

That billet piece from Gruven looks great, but the cheap plastic tee has lasted 180k miles, so I'm okay with the factory part.

If I break the existing plastic connector, do I need the tool to install the new hose end? Or does it just slide into place?

O'Rielly has a Gates replacement assembly (tee plus the 3 hoses) with no plastic connector - just the open hose end. Can the heater core end accept a hose clamp (without slipping)?

These snap connectors just push on to the heater core Ts. Getting them off is the issue.

If you get the long heater hose with no connector, I would recommend replacing the snap fitting since it has an o-ring in it and there's no telling what condition it's in. You'll need one like this. You can always buy it and return it if you don't use it.

 

[Fless]

There is a 3-way hose that connects to the water pump, coolant reservoir, and heater core at the firewall. The heater core end has a plastic fitting that appears to require a special tool (the other two are hose clamps). I can purchase this hose locally with or without the plastic end piece. Is there a special tool for this fitting?

@Scotty54 do you have rear heat, or front only?

I'm not 100% on this, but it seems that the ones without rear heat may have a push connector that doesn't have the ears, like this:

For that one you'd need a tool like @swathdiver posted.


I have rear heat and ALL of my quick connectors have the ears on them, unlike the one above. Theoretically these can be removed by squeezing the tabs (ears) and pulling apart the connection a la @PNW VietVet, or like @Doubeleive said you can go cave man on it.

Take a look at yours and let us know what yours has for that hose connection.

EDIT: the Gates one in Post #12 has the tabs (ears) to squeeze.

 

[OR VietVet]

Yes, pics please. Also, I think it was mentioned earlier. The tee's will be 2 different sizes and I think they are a different color as well.

 

[Fless]

His won't have the T's if he doesn't have rear heat. I think he's only worried about the direct connection to the heater hose.