Growing up doesn't have to suck

[iamdub]

If you haven't yet, use the tech 2 to perform the blend door calibration.

That said, me doing a proactive ac compressor replacement did help my ac a little.

My ac worked fine, and it might have been an oil replacement + fresh 134a.

If i were to do it again, i would also do my ac condenser.

Mine was pretty plugged, i did even more cleanup this time around.
With my trans oil cooler removed, i found even more was plugged.

I used a fine dental pick to poke out each blocked hole, and followed up with compressed air.

Part of why i say to replace it if you're willing to go that far is the amount of time it took, and it still looks loke the surface of the moon... lol

Come to think of it, that's probably the major reason for the improvement the first time i had the radiator out... lol
Cleaning and straightening of the fins.

No Tech2 here, and the actuator calibration can be performed without it. But, diagnosing the blend doors and a plethora of other AC system tests require it.

If it leaks out again, like soon, and not over the course of a few years, I'll aim to do a thorough refresh of the system with replacement of the wear items and whatever's ailing. Maybe replace all the actuators as a preventative measure. I have no idea of the condition of my condenser.

 

[George B]

No Tech2 here, and the actuator calibration can be performed without it. But, diagnosing the blend doors and a plethora of other A.C system tests require it.

If it leaks out again, like soon, and not over the course of a few years, I'll aim to do a thorough refresh of the system with replacement of the wear items and whatever's ailing. Maybe replace all the actuators as a preventative measure. I have no idea of the condition of my condenser.

My rear control acts in a way other than I would expect. When I get a chance I will compare how mine acts.

 

[iamdub]

My rear control acts in a way other than I would expect. When I get a chance I will compare how mine acts.

I'm curious to know! As for mine, I'm sure these things aren't supposed to have a screen saver.

 

[George B]

I'm curious to know! As for mine, I'm sure these things aren't supposed to have a screen saver.

You should repost the screen pics on here. I think they are on the what did you do to your NNBS thread.

 

[iamdub]

You should repost the screen pics on here. I think they are on the what did you do to your NNBS thread.

Ah. Good call. I posted them in a dedicated thread about the issue. I'll copy/paste here...

 

[iamdub]

Rear A/C wonkiness:

When set on "face", it blows out the headliner vents but isn't cool at all. It's not full-on heat, but not chilled. When I switched it to "feet", the air from the vents under the seats is cool. I didn't let it run long enough to see if it would get as cold as that coming out the dash vents, but it was definitely cooler than that coming out of the headliner vents.


The aluminum lines underneath the body at the right rear weren't cool at all. Shouldn't they be?

Also, the rear climate control panel seems to be doing strange things. When any button is pressed, it'll show the full display of temp, fan speed and vent selection. After about five seconds, the duct selection part goes away. It'll come back and respond accordingly if I press the button to cycle through the options. Pic with it missing:

After about 10 seconds, the whole display goes blank except for this:

 

[George B]

Mine does not act like yours and the screen stays on unlike yours. I get cold air out of the upper and/or lower vents as expected. Mine is a 2013 with the most current calibration in the rear module.

 

[iamdub]

Mine does not act like yours and the screen stays on unlike yours. I get cold air out of the upper and/or lower vents as expected. Mine is a 2013 with the most current calibration in the rear module.

How does yours act that is "in a way other than you would expect"? It sounds fine to me.

 

[George B]

How does yours act that is "in a way other than you would expect"? It sounds fine to me.

Mine acts goofy for heating in the winter.

13 Suburban Rear HVAC Erratic Operation.

I have been chatting with a few here about my rear HVAC operation but decided to start a thread. I am going to add the posts we have already and then proceed with some more diagnostics on my Tech2 as time permits. So far the unit operates as expected when controlled by either the front or rear...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Just Fishing]

No Tech2 here, and the actuator calibration can be performed without it. But, diagnosing the blend doors and a plethora of other A.C system tests require it.

If it leaks out again, like soon, and not over the course of a few years, I'll aim to do a thorough refresh of the system with replacement of the wear items and whatever's ailing. Maybe replace all the actuators as a preventative measure. I have no idea of the condition of my condenser.

no tech2?!?!

When is your bday?

 

[Tonyrodz]

No Tech2 here, and the actuator calibration can be performed without it. But, diagnosing the blend doors and a plethora of other A.C system tests require it.

If it leaks out again, like soon, and not over the course of a few years, I'll aim to do a thorough refresh of the system with replacement of the wear items and whatever's ailing. Maybe replace all the actuators as a preventative measure. I have no idea of the condition of my condenser.

Let me know if you want to borrow mine broski.

 

[iamdub]

no tech2?!?!

When is your bday?

My birth certificate says 4/20, but my bday can be whenever it needs to be!

 

[iamdub]

Let me know if you want to borrow mine broski.

Thank you! That's a hell of an offer and I'll keep it in mind if I get to that point.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Thank you! That's a hell of an offer and I'll keep it in mind if I get to that point.

Could always send it out through UPS.

 

[iamdub]

Could always send it out through UPS.

Sure. I rarely have an issue with any shipper- USPS, UPS or FedEx. But, there's always a risk. My first choice is to borrow one locally and it never leave the owner's possession, such as meeting a nearby member (Houston is nearby for me, especially if I'm there visiting fam). I am absolutely grateful for the option and privilege of your offer and will take you up on it if needed.

 

[Walchit]

Need some 7.375?
I got what you need!!

View attachment 366625

It's got Brawndo, Brawndo is what a LS needs!!

View attachment 366627

Do you still have these?

 

[Just Fishing]

Do you still have these?

I sure do, do you need them?

 

[Walchit]

I sure do, do you need them?

Sorry, I only waited a couple hours before going ahead and ordering the 11/32nds pushrods from BTR. I'm so ready to have this thing finished.

 

[iamdub]

Weekend before last, I was putting the windows up and the right rear one made a cracking sound. It was up so I was gonna leave it and I should've unplugged the switch. A week goes by and I had forgotten about it. So, last weekend, I went to lower the windows a few inches for the drive home and the right rear window just slammed to full open. I'm lucky it didn't break. I park in a garage so it wasn't so urgent.

Just under four years ago, my driver's door regulator messed up and it was just a frayed cable. I made up a new one and it's been perfect ever since. I had an early day Friday so I tore into it to assess. This time, I wasn't as lucky. The cable was fine but the whole plastic trolley assembly was cracked in multiple places (obviously from age) and it broke where the cable attached. No saving this one!


I'm holding the upper cable end where it would be locked in place like the lower one but the pieces are missing:

New OEM regulators are $100+ and I wanted to avoid aftermarket so I went straight to Marketplace to look for an SUV being parted out since I need a few other miscellaneous parts. I found a few but was targeting a 2013 since it was the newest. Then, I saw an ad for two new OEM regulators a guy had bought for his '08 Tahoe, but was T-bõned soon after so they were never installed. He wanted $40 and was on my side of the river. I messaged him Friday night and didn't get a response. I had to get groceries last night so I removed the motor drive and cables, put a 3/8" bolt in the track and reinstalled the regulator to hold the window up tightly in the seals:

BTW, if you remove the inside sweep and tilt the window this way, you can remove and install it without removing the rest of the seals:

I was starting to think the guy with those regulators was yet another Marketplace seller who sold their stuff and just never deleted the ad. But then he replied this morning and we made plans to meet in town. I was skeptical that they were actual OEM parts until I saw them:

They're legit! As I pulled four $20 bills out of my wallet and handed them to him, I asked "It was $40 each, right?" He said "$40 for both" and started to give me two of the bills back. I told him they're a deal to me at $40 each and to treat his girlfriend with the cash (she was in his truck with the window down and saw and heard everything)

 

[Jimmyy]

So you gave a extra $40 but it's going to cost him $100.