Growing up doesn't have to suck

[randeez]

Ugh. I don't like having to do a bunch of things just to find out I can't finish, then undo everything I just did to reschedule for another day. Such is life.


Here's the scoop. I removed the wheels and set the lower ball joint studs on some blocks and the rear diff on a same-height block so that the Tahoe would be resting at its normal angle, with the weight on the suspension. I removed the end links to inspect the misalignment of the hole in the lower control arm to the eye in the sway bar. Here's what I have:

I rotated the bar as flat as reasonably possible-

View attachment 388700


Eye is about 1/2" forward-

View attachment 388699


And maybe 1/4" inboard-

View attachment 388701


I'm not worried about that 1/4" inboard misalignment. But I have two options for fixing the bigger mess. OPTION 1: I could move the sway bar back, but I don't have much space in the bracket for the rearmost bolt. To get the absolute most gain, I'd drill a hole as far back as possible then shave one side of the head of a bolt down to the shank and drop it in from the top. The head being against the "wall" would keep it from turning and I'd use a nut on the bottom side. The frontward half would just be drilling a hole and bolting it. I'd use a flat plate for a shim instead of the ring currently in place, as seen in the pic-

View attachment 388702


OPTION 2: Make custom offset end links. This is really where I'm leaning. There's not enough space between the adjacent surfaces to use any kind of offset (Z-shaped) bar stock. Also, the angles of the two flat surfaces aren't parallel, as seen in the third pic. I'd need the two bushings between the bar and LCA to be as back-to-back as possible. Due to all the angles involved- the misalignment of the holes and the angles of the surfaces, I'm thinking of bolting the upper and lower bushings to each component with separate bolts. I'd put the head of the one going into the sway bar under it and the head of the one going into the LCA above it. Snug them up just as they fall out so the bushings aren't forced at any funky angles. Then, weld the heads together just as they meet. Even slicing half off each head to "Siamese" them together if that's necessary. Reinforce as feasible. This would simultaneously account for the hole misalignment and the angles. I'll look into using regular donut style poly bushings since they'd possibly be flatter than these thermoplastic ones, giving me a few millimeters more breathing room between the bushings.


I didn't have time to do any more than just assess and take pics. I might get back into it and decide to just slide the bar back and use regular, straight, but really short end links (Option 1). Either way, I wanna wait 'til I have time to actually do something about it and not just look at it.

Run it linkless

 

[iamdub]

Run it linkless

I ordered another Arduino board to see if I can finally get my Bluetooth end link idea off the ground.

 

[randeez]

C-notch the frame so you can move the mount up

 

[Sam Harris]

C-notch the frame so you can move the mount up

Thank you..! The voice of reason speaks..!

 

[iamdub]

C-notch the frame so you can move the mount up

Your revelations should be printed on a icosahedron and placed inside a "Magic 8 Ball For Car Guys".


Also- damn you. You made me look at an undercarriage pic. I can't believe I even entertained it that far. I'd have to tunnel notch the bell housing and bottom of the torque converter.

 

[Sam Harris]

Your revelations should be printed on a icosahedron and placed inside a "Magic 8 Ball For Car Guys".


Also- damn you. You made me look at an undercarriage pic. I can't believe I even entertained it that far. I'd have to tunnel notch the bell housing and bottom of the torque converter.

Do iiittttt…

 

[George B]

Not sure how much distance you have but I in-vision a figure eight shaped pad threaded for 5/16 bolts offset as needed. It would go between the bushings and could even be twisted or bent for the angle. Only needs to be 5/16 thick.

 

[randeez]

Not sure ** much distance you have ....

he has about this much room

 

[iamdub]

he has about this much room
View attachment 388913

Story of my life, in all aspects.

 

[iamdub]

Not sure how much distance you have but I in-vision a figure eight shaped pad threaded for 5/16 bolts offset as needed. It would go between the bushings and could even be twisted or bent for the angle. Only needs to be 5/16 thick.

I have some 3/8" plate. I'll shave 1/32" of each adjacent bushing to regain that lost 1/16th inch.