Maybe I can make your life easier next time! The engine mount bolts can all be buzzed out with an impact and extensions from up top. I will give you the ac pump though, but its not too bad.
GMT900 Engine removal options
- Thread starter DaveO9
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Dirty looks
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As I said, to each their own. I'd rather sit on a stool and do those jobs rather than stand on my head or lay on my back eating dirt.
I found it easier to get to a few things with the liners out also.
donjetman
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Removing the starter then provides access to remove the torque converter bolts
I guess I am in the minority here, I have never unbolted the inner fender to change a starter. Oh well, carry on and consider me out voted here, I think taking the wheels off and inner fenders out is more work then unbolting the starter and ac pump with them in. It truly is what works best for each.
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DaveO9
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Thanks for opinions and info, everyone. I agree that some of these choices are personal preference. Removing things like fender liners may be easier for some, and not for others. I've removed both sides multiple times for various things, and having done so, I can do it more quickly now. Driver's side motor mount was tricky for me, even with front diff out, and the skirt out helped.
I'm pretty set on removing the core support and going out the front now. I may try and keep AC lines intact and just move to the side, but haven't decided on that one yet.
I'm pretty set on removing the core support and going out the front now. I may try and keep AC lines intact and just move to the side, but haven't decided on that one yet.
PatDTN
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To get to those bellhousing bolts the transmission shop i used lowered the rear of the engine. That meant disconnecting the driveshaft, removing the cross members disconnecting the exhaust at the manifolds etc. For removing the transmission that made sense. Not so much the engine. I don't recall being able to get an extension to the bolts. YMMV. I used ratcheting box wrenches. My longest extension is only 18 inches so that probably was my issue.
Definitely put the truck on solid jack stands and remove the front wheels. I disconnected the battery of course but turned the key on so I could turn the wheels. Unbeknownst to me that caused the non rechargeable battery in the OnStar to die. Also disconnect the hood supports and you can raise the hood up enough to do the job.
I also set the ac compressor out of the way as well as the bracket with the power steering pump and alternator on the other side. I strapped them both back out of the way. There's no tensioner pulley or adjustment for the belt on the ac and I had a time getting that off and the bolts out of the compressor mount.
There's a wiring harness running across the front of the oil pan. Pull the bolt out of the bracket and slide that to get it loose.
Motor mounts are accessible through the wheel wells but you have to push the plastic inner fender bottom around some. Also the way to go changing spark plugs.
Try to take your time and enjoy the process.
Definitely put the truck on solid jack stands and remove the front wheels. I disconnected the battery of course but turned the key on so I could turn the wheels. Unbeknownst to me that caused the non rechargeable battery in the OnStar to die. Also disconnect the hood supports and you can raise the hood up enough to do the job.
I also set the ac compressor out of the way as well as the bracket with the power steering pump and alternator on the other side. I strapped them both back out of the way. There's no tensioner pulley or adjustment for the belt on the ac and I had a time getting that off and the bolts out of the compressor mount.
There's a wiring harness running across the front of the oil pan. Pull the bolt out of the bracket and slide that to get it loose.
Motor mounts are accessible through the wheel wells but you have to push the plastic inner fender bottom around some. Also the way to go changing spark plugs.
Try to take your time and enjoy the process.
For me when i removed mine if i remember right.
There is 1 bolt on the exhaust flange on each side i could not get a socket on and going through the wheel wells made that a much easier job using a wrench.
The bottom rear ac bolt is a pita but easy once the engine is up a few inches.
The torque convertor bolts are easy going through the wheel well when starter is out if someone holds/turns the crank for you.
With the intake off the top two dr side bell housing bolts are a pita until the bracket is out of the way. Most of the bell housing bolts are a small pita actually.
Seems like the trans dip stick tube was always in my way working on that side underneath.
Anyway you'll get it. Just take one step at a time.
There is 1 bolt on the exhaust flange on each side i could not get a socket on and going through the wheel wells made that a much easier job using a wrench.
The bottom rear ac bolt is a pita but easy once the engine is up a few inches.
The torque convertor bolts are easy going through the wheel well when starter is out if someone holds/turns the crank for you.
With the intake off the top two dr side bell housing bolts are a pita until the bracket is out of the way. Most of the bell housing bolts are a small pita actually.
Seems like the trans dip stick tube was always in my way working on that side underneath.
Anyway you'll get it. Just take one step at a time.
I guess it all comes down to how you do each thing. I just impact the two starter bolts off, pull the starter down, then unhook the two wire nuts. I then put a few extensions together and get the torque converter bolts with my impact sitting between the radiator and front cross member, just make sure you pull the ac pump first to give the straight path for the extensions.
For engine mounts I put a few half inch extensions together, move the flimsy metal heat shield around the engine mount as needed, and zip the engine mount bolts with the impact or bar if they are too tight, while standing over the fender looking down at the engine mounts. Perhaps some people haven't seen that there is a direct path to unbolt the engine mounts with extensions from the top, it does look like you wouldn't be able to until you stand there and look down at an angle from above. There is a direct line to them.
For engine mounts I put a few half inch extensions together, move the flimsy metal heat shield around the engine mount as needed, and zip the engine mount bolts with the impact or bar if they are too tight, while standing over the fender looking down at the engine mounts. Perhaps some people haven't seen that there is a direct path to unbolt the engine mounts with extensions from the top, it does look like you wouldn't be able to until you stand there and look down at an angle from above. There is a direct line to them.
The engine mount bolts are easy from the top on each side.
I don't have an extension long enough to reach the tc bolts from the engine front but im going to go buy one now. Never thought of that method.
I don't have an extension long enough to reach the tc bolts from the engine front but im going to go buy one now. Never thought of that method.
You will love it next time. Your socket and ratchet for turning over the engine hangs right beside your impact, so you can reach off your gun and fine tune the nut position while the gun hangs off all the extensions. Zip a bolt out, then your gun and extensions hang in place while you turn over the engine to get the next one. It turns one of the most annoying jobs into one of the easiest parts of the job.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
it has been a long time since I went through this.
I have had mine out a few times as I struggled with some torque converter + tune issues.
pro tip, be careful if raise your converter lockup pressure + reduce or eliminate allowed slip if you have an aftermarket torque converter.
pressure can wipe out the thrust bearing.
but that's for another thread.
The first time I removed the engine, I pulled the hood.
Later I found out about this service position, remove the struts and there is this nice, designed spot to stick a bolt or some sort of rod to lock the hood in a vertical position.
also remove the front diff makes things much easier, I used ratchet straps to pull/hold the cvs into a nice, compressed state.
I have a harbor freight motorcycle jack that makes it nice and easy to lift and lower the front diff.
remove the exhaust from underneath, you can get to most of the bell housing bolts.
If you lower the transmission a bit, it's even easier to get an extension on those upper bolts.
before installing, be 100% sure that converter is all the way seated in the transmission.
watch YouTube videos.
it should slide back pretty far, almost touching bolts (iirc).
Make sure there aren't any shims, I don't think they do it with LS's but pump setback is something you set.
you want to bag them.
I had a set fall out of my vette, i had no idea what they were until later.
you can and will break the pump rotor if you're not fully seated in it.
It can run fine with a broken pump rotor, for a while that is.
And zip loc bags with a magic marker.
mark everything, bag and tag.
I have had mine out a few times as I struggled with some torque converter + tune issues.
pro tip, be careful if raise your converter lockup pressure + reduce or eliminate allowed slip if you have an aftermarket torque converter.
pressure can wipe out the thrust bearing.
but that's for another thread.
The first time I removed the engine, I pulled the hood.
Later I found out about this service position, remove the struts and there is this nice, designed spot to stick a bolt or some sort of rod to lock the hood in a vertical position.
also remove the front diff makes things much easier, I used ratchet straps to pull/hold the cvs into a nice, compressed state.
I have a harbor freight motorcycle jack that makes it nice and easy to lift and lower the front diff.
remove the exhaust from underneath, you can get to most of the bell housing bolts.
If you lower the transmission a bit, it's even easier to get an extension on those upper bolts.
before installing, be 100% sure that converter is all the way seated in the transmission.
watch YouTube videos.
it should slide back pretty far, almost touching bolts (iirc).
Make sure there aren't any shims, I don't think they do it with LS's but pump setback is something you set.
you want to bag them.
I had a set fall out of my vette, i had no idea what they were until later.
you can and will break the pump rotor if you're not fully seated in it.
It can run fine with a broken pump rotor, for a while that is.
And zip loc bags with a magic marker.
mark everything, bag and tag.
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