GMT900 Engine removal options

[DaveO9]

I recently saw a thread like this, but it was for 2015-2020 so I'm starting my own. Starting to plan engine removal for 6.0 swap on my 2013 4wd Tahoe LT. What's the preferred method for 900s - up and over core support, or remove core support and pull it forward? I was always thinking up and over, but my cherry picker does not have a lot of height and I remember pulling the engine on a square body Suburban, and I had to lower the front end down to it's brake rotors to get the engine to clear. So now I'm thinking go out the front. The only downside I'm seeing is having to release HVAC refrigerant and then get it charged back up when done. I'm thinking that might be worth it? I've heard the difficulties in getting to the upper bell housing bolts. If going out the front, can I move engine/trans/t-case as an assembly a few inches forward to make it easier to get to those bolts?

Any other tips and tricks for engine removal on these trucks would be appreciated. I've pulled engines from square bodies, a GMT400 suburban and my 76 Corvette, so not my first rodeo, but lots of good experience amongst folks here!

 

[89Suburban]

I recently saw a thread like this, but it was for 2015-2020 so I'm starting my own. Starting to plan engine removal for 6.0 swap on my 2013 4wd Tahoe LT. What's the preferred method for 900s - up and over core support, or remove core support and pull it forward? I was always thinking up and over, but my cherry picker does not have a lot of height and I remember pulling the engine on a square body Suburban, and I had to lower the front end down to it's brake rotors to get the engine to clear. So now I'm thinking go out the front. The only downside I'm seeing is having to release HVAC refrigerant and then get it charged back up when done. I'm thinking that might be worth it? I've heard the difficulties in getting to the upper bell housing bolts. If going out the front, can I move engine/trans/t-case as an assembly a few inches forward to make it easier to get to those bolts?

Any other tips and tricks for engine removal on these trucks would be appreciated. I've pulled engines from square bodies, a GMT400 suburban and my 76 Corvette, so not my first rodeo, but lots of good experience amongst folks here!

I had a shop replace mine and they took off the front core support to do it.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I'm not suggesting this method for you, but it is a viable alternate solution for a motor swap, with the right equipment, which you probably do not have.

 

[SpareParts]

I just went over to core support. Did no even need to remove the radiator. Doing again sometime this summer with a rebuilt one going in.

 

[07burban88]

when i did the 4.8 swap on the 07 i lifted the body off the frame. so much room for activities

 

[DaveO9]

I'm not suggesting this method for you, but it is a viable alternate solution, with the right equipment, which you probably do not have.


View attachment 482253

LOL, yes, not having the "right equipment" is definitely an understatement!

I just went over to core support. Did no even need to remove the radiator. Doing again sometime this summer with a rebuilt one going in.View attachment 482254

Nice, looks like you have an A-frame hoist? I'm just using a cherry picker so not quite the height. How hard is it to get to the upper bell housing bolts when separating engine from trans?

 

[SpareParts]

The two on the driver side are a pita because there are brackets you need to get off first. Remove the intake first also.

 

[DaveO9]

The two on the driver side are a pita because there are brackets you need to get off first. Remove the intake first also.View attachment 482291

Cool thanks. I did read that removing intake helped with this. but you also have heads removed - could you have gotten to those bolts with heads installed? I should be able to remove the heads on the 5.3 I'm taking out, but I'm buying a salvage yard engine and warranty is voided if I remove the heads. (plus, I really don't want to, LOL)

 

[SpareParts]

That's just a pic i found on the internet to show the bracket. When i had mine out the heads were on it.

 

[swathdiver]

Randy has pictures on here of when he pulled the motor on his. @randeez

If I remember right, he turned the motor sideways... or maybe he pulled the core support, don't remember anymore other than that he took photos! LOL

 

[alvocado]

The transmission bell housing bolts on top are best accessible with a long ratchet extension (3ft). If you remove the intake, you can drop the rear of the engine down a bit further to get the socket extension over the top of the transmission while wrenching from the rear of the output and onto the bolts.

 

[Scrappycrow]

The transmission bell housing bolts on top are best accessible with a long ratchet extension (3ft).

This has been the way with various vehicles for me. I strongly suggest a 1/2" extension over a 3/8" for this, even if you're using 3/8" sockets, because the amount of twist you can induce in the extension while breaking fasteners loose is surprising.

 

[strutaeng]

On my 06 GMT800, for AC compressor and PS pump, I just unbolted them off the bracket, and tucked them to the side. So not breaking lines for those. Is that possible on the GMT900? I would think so, but don't know.

Yes, top bellhousing bolts can either be access underneath with a long extension. I think I have 24" or 30" in 3/8 and 1/2, I can't remember which I used. Dropping the transmission tail housing helps a lot, which is much easier on a 2wd. But if you are tearing your engine down, just remove the intake since you will do that anyways and will help with clearance with the cowl, and then you can remove the top bellhousing bolts thru the top.

The motor mounts have factory thread locker and are a huge PIA to remove even with a long ratchet. I recommend an impact for those.

 

[hagar]

They come out easy with the rad support and radiator in place. As for the top tranny bolts, just pull the intake manifold and remove the top tranny bolts from the top.

Pull the fans, front accessories besides balancer, unhook wiring, engine mounts, then pull the engine forward and up. Then I use an impact and remove the drivers side exhaust manifold, then spin the engine 90 degrees so the balancer is facing the passenger side wheel, and it comes out clean.

 

[SpareParts]

You can remove the engine without opening up the ac.

 

[hagar]

Its not bad at all

 

[Dirty looks]

I unbolted the a/c pump, removed the radiator to avoid damage and went over the support. Left the exhaust manifolds on.
Unbolt the tranny from the rear cross member and jack it up a bit, upper bell housing bolts are easier to get to.

 

[Dirty looks]

Pull the inner fender liners out for access, you're going to need it..

 

[hagar]

Pull the inner fender liners out for access, you're going to need it..

For what? I can't think of a single thing that would be easier with the liners out.

 

[Dirty looks]

Motor mounts for one. Starter access. A/C pump.
Too each their own. Feel free to struggle, I won't stop you.