GM Front Axle Nut?

[EddieC]

I understand that the front axle nuts are noted as one time use but does that mean one shot or can it be run in a bit and torqued a following day?
I notices a yellow strip in the nut so I assume it's thread lock and wasn't sure if once it was disturbed in partial installation and put in a low air environment it might start curing and be not useful if further disturbed.

 

[randeez]

I always reuse them

 

[West 1]

I re use them also but add lock tite to the threads when I install them. Zero concern they are fine as long as they don’t come loose.

The hard par is getting them tight again. Edit torque spec: Some need a torque spec of 180 ft pounds where I get out a 4 foot pipe to use as a breaker bar extension if old like me.

Or invest in one of the new battery powered impact wrenches that can deal with that type torque.
I will share since I bought my Milwaukee battery powered 1/2” impact I have not used my Ingersol Rand Air powered impact, not even once. It became obsolete.

 

[strutaeng]

I re use them also but add lock tite to the threads when I install them. Zero concern they are fine as long as they don’t come loose.

The hard par is getting them tight again. Some need a torque spec of 275 ft pounds where I get out a 4 foot pipe to use as a breaker bar extension. You end up tightening till the breaker bar is starting to bend.

Or invest in one of the new battery powered impact wrenches that can deal with that type torque.
I will share since I bought my Milwaukee battery powered 1/2” impact I have not used my Ingersol Rand Air powered impact, not even once. It became obsolete.

I just happened to buy a socket set for a 2000 K3500 I'm parting out and need to take the front suspension and was curious, so looked up the specs and it's 177 lb-ft.

A few additional (random) examples front axle nut spec I looked up: 2004 Suburban 2500 4x4, and 2008 suburban, both also say 177 lb-ft according to Google...

I've never taken one apart. You just remove the nut, reinstall it to thread on, then tap it with a dead blow hammer to disconnect it from the knuckle, right?

Sorry to jump in and ask...

 

[mikez71]

For my '05 2500 suburban, charm.li shows:
177 ft.lbs. for the "hub nut"
184 ft.lbs. for the "axle nut"

The front axle nut on my 2500 suburban, someone replaced a wheel bearing and overtightened it..
I'm afraid to go past 3' on the breaker because I did break a 1/2" breaker once..(the bit cracked)

 

[West 1]

I edited the torque spec in the post above, When removing the axle from the spindle once the nut is loose spray some lubrication on the axle splines before doing anything to help them come loose. The axle shaft has a pilot hole in it to hold a Puller if needed but they usually pop right out with a few blows using a drift and a hammer. You will know right away if they are rusted in place or going to slide right out. Assemble with some anti seize on the splines just in case it ever has to come off again and to ease the assembly process.
Keep in mind that the splines are inside your wheel bearing and any pounding can hurt the bearings inside the hub so do not get carried away pounding and start damage in the bearing. If the axle is stuck use a puller to press the axle out.

 

[swathdiver]

The spindle nuts, 11609826 go on tight and are one time use only. I have used them again too without issue, temporarily. Folks that do not tighten them to spec (177 ft lbs) often destroy their hubs in short order.

The factory nut takes a 35mm socket. The Dorman replacement (5177 or 615-095) uses a 36mm socket. I have used the 36mm socket to remove the 35mm nut before.

These are the nuts that secure the CV Axle to the Hub.

The nuts that secure the CV Axle to the Differential have 15mm heads and are torqued to 58 foot pounds on the GMT900 1500s.

@EddieC Yes, you can run them in and tighten them to spec later which is actually SOP.

 

[rdezs]

To push the axle splines through the bearing to remove the axle.... An inexpensive air hammer with the pointed tip fits in the recess at the end of the axle. Much better on your bearings than a dead blow, the vibrations of the air hammer will make those splines slide right out easily.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have re-used them, no issue's and I drive like a @sshat
I bought this k-tool torque wrench for around the same price many years ago, makes quick work of anything 25-250 ft lbs
I use it all the time for brakes, and wheel rotations, plus the hubs and anything else i can reach with it.

https://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI-72102-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000GTOL00/ref=sr_1_1?crid=282LH3B6GGMI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.HQptwm2Np36DFrEv4ZPVWaCuls9yStj3JkWUVvR58DdARNs8NSTZKYqHKiIVuxh_MlEk6lQ3TpuCwqCot7mvw0sUoOnn_w35X-FxZIjQsqgcP1zR5K_n_RaQFJ02f68VyrbApD3snu22EPBfFl8D1jAgH7vFFJCMUsNhZLRtO5pOTCcsnvLSO1hs-OfNLLvA-A8dWna77uKqMhoG0HcuKuC6j2u-s5AbzO55Qj67-Q8.48wZ9YvGRJeGocqLGIv76zfOzSRCSDeRjg22GLwIJdg&dib_tag=se&keywords=kti-72102&qid=1781117560&sprefix=kti-72102%2Caps%2C287&sr=8-1

 

[Doubeleive]

a few of us all bought the ridgid impacts when they had a good sale on them a few years back at home depot, it does pretty much move the air impact of the end of the line.
if you register the ridgid battery it has a lifetime warranty.

 

[West 1]

I have had my torque wrench for 50 years now, it only goes to 150 pounds. I keep saying I will upgrade one of these days. Well, one of these days....... I know a better higher torque tool is necessary so not knocking yours I just have yet to step up.

 

[rdezs]

Lol, I retired my 30 year old 250 lb 1/2 drive torque wrench. Traded her in for a 3/4 drive, 900 lb, 51" long wrench. Works fantastic on axle nuts, and the LS engine crankshaft bolt.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have had my torque wrench for 50 years now, it only goes to 150 pounds. I keep saying I will upgrade one of these days. Well, one of these days....... I know a better higher torque tool is necessary so not knocking yours I just have yet to step up.

there are plenty of "higher quality" ones there for sure, I personally don't need nor want to pay $1k for something that's not that critical for me. i am not building 2,000 horse power motors or anything, nor running a shop but did want something better than harbor freight......
i have a couple smaller ones in my tool bag that are probably easily 20+ years old and still work just fine
the kti Accuracy Rating: Typically ±4% accuracy in the clockwise direction (meeting standard national and international specifications).

 

[EddieC]

The spindle nuts, 11609826 go on tight and are one time use only. I have used them again too without issue, temporarily. Folks that do not tighten them to spec (177 ft lbs) often destroy their hubs in short order.

The factory nut takes a 35mm socket. The Dorman replacement (5177 or 615-095) uses a 36mm socket. I have used the 36mm socket to remove the 35mm nut before.

These are the nuts that secure the CV Axle to the Hub.

The nuts that secure the CV Axle to the Differential have 15mm heads and are torqued to 58 foot pounds on the GMT900 1500s.

@EddieC Yes, you can run them in and tighten them to spec later which is actually SOP.

I bought two oem GM axle (in GM baggies) hub end nuts from RA and they measured 35 1/2 mm so a 36 mm socket was needed and it was tightened to 177 ft# or so. Wrench doesn't read 1 ft# increments. Yes it was a tight fit on the threads. Just as tight coming off; good thing I weight 177#.

The question was actually do they need to be installed in one shot which might relate to one use if it's about what seems to be thread sealant or locker inside.

 

[rdezs]

My theory, regardless of loctite or the interference fit design, is that GM probably says to replace the knot because that's a lot of torque and the integrity of the internal threads on a second torque might be questionable.

 

[mikez71]

... Folks that do not tighten them to spec (177 ft lbs) often destroy their hubs in short order.

Maybe the loose axle end in there cranking around destroys the hub?
But it sounds like you can use 4X4 hubs in a 2WD for GenIII and later.. (So axle nut torque is not holding the bearing together)

"When replacing an older Gen II design 4x2 hub with a new 4x2/4x4 common Gen III hub, it is acceptable to have a bearing with splines on it for a 4x2 application that previously did not. However, the older Gen II design 4x4 hubs should NOT be used on a 4x2 vehicle. The Gen II 4x4 hub relies on the tension of the wheel drive shaft joint to hold everything together. The roll form feature on the inboard side of the new 4x2/4x4 Gen III hub eliminates this concern."

Drivetrain - Gen II Vs. Gen III Wheel Hub Changes — 2005 Chevrolet Suburban 3/4 Ton 2WD V8-6.0L VIN U Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2005 Chevrolet Suburban 3/4 Ton 2WD V8-6.0L VIN U.

charm.li