alpha_omega
Full Access Member
This company has had the most converter failures repaired by transmission mechanics in the last four years.
GM 6L80 Transmission Information Thread
- Thread starter NickTransmissions
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This company has had the most converter failures repaired by transmission mechanics in the last four years.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Where do we find a replacement that meets the minimum requirements not to explode?
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
Check with your local reputable transmission shop. They will more than likely have specific companies they prefer, but can normally order anything specific that you want.
As @NickTransmissions has stated, you want to order a “new torque converter with .050” or thicker converter clutch w/ billet cover - DO NOT let them give you an oem converter with the same POS .020” thick clutch as it fails repeatedly. My converter builder installs a .070” thick clutch for durability.”
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Would you recommend the Raybestos RCP96-189 clutches and 000601 steels? A buddy of mine had his torque converter start to fail on his 13 Yukon and PATC told him the Stage 1 reds would be too harsh for something stock or a little over stock. I don’t want harsh so I’m thinking about getting those for mine also. I’m going to start collecting up parts to rebuild the transmission in my 08 before my torque converter goes bad. I’m going to use the ZL1 torque converter since I have a small cam that would likely benefit from it and hopefully it won’t hurt my fuel mileage any more, I’m going to replace the entire pump assembly for peace of mind, and since I’ve always had a crap 1-2 shift, I’m going to replace both halves of the valve body, plus the Raybestos clutches and steels, and I have new GM pistons for the 4-5-6, low and reverse, and 2-6. Would those clutches withstand possibly supercharging the truck down the road? I don’t beat the crap out of mine, generally don’t WOT from a dead stop, and would likely only do low boost (as in a Magnuson or LSA left alone, maybe 5-6 PSI?).
I noticed you mentioned replacing the TEHCM but our transmission guy said there’s no reason to replace it if there are no solenoid codes or the torque converter hasn’t come apart. He said if there are holes in the screens it’ll need to be replaced. Are the electronics updated in a new one or anything? I sure would love the rev-matched downshifting in manual mode that the later ones have but I suspect there’s more to it than just the TEHCM.
I noticed you mentioned replacing the TEHCM but our transmission guy said there’s no reason to replace it if there are no solenoid codes or the torque converter hasn’t come apart. He said if there are holes in the screens it’ll need to be replaced. Are the electronics updated in a new one or anything? I sure would love the rev-matched downshifting in manual mode that the later ones have but I suspect there’s more to it than just the TEHCM.
OP
OP
Raybestos RCP96-189 clutches are good to go or their stage 1 module and Kolene steels if you planning for higher horsepower down the road.
I won't warranty any rebuilds unless the customer agrees to replace the TEHCM with an OEM or Sonnax-built unit, GM IMS and harness/speed sensor assembly - why take the chance, esp w/the IMS which can strand you if it fails?
TEHCMs do go bad and they have no codes until they do...why put a used part back onto an otherwise brand new/fully rebuilt transmission? Makes no sense but many shops do it because it gets the job in the door and/or customers cant afford a full rebuild so sometimes corners have to get cut...Ive done it before and customer waives the warranty.
For all my builds, I will vacuum test the valve body and pump cover for wear and install the Sonnax Zip kit on all rebuilds (the Transgo Reprogramming kit is just as good and use it sometimes in lieu of the Sonnax). Install the following:
- Sonnax 3-5-R HP Apply ring - gives you an extra flat steel and friction while eliminating the wavy cushion plate
- Sonnax 4-5-6 piston kit - gives you an extra flat steel and friction while eliminating the wavy cushion plate
- Sonnax 1-2-3-4 billet piston (factory versions are prone to cracking, early much more so than later updated versions but I never reuse any OEM 1-2-3-4 apply piston)
- Snap ring for the low sprag (and a new low sprag assembly)
- Snap ring kit for the 3-5-R and 4-5-6 apply piston return springs
- updated GM hd parking rod
- flip pill or Superior Tech delete kit if you have a 2015+ with a TBV
Alright, I’ll add the TEHCM back to my list. I’m not sure I want to get into changing things to where it won’t go together like factory because our transmission guy will be rebuilding this for me as a favor so I don’t want to make it a PITA for him. The billet 1-2-3-4 piston looks good though. That’s part number: 104984-01? I’m getting the GM overhaul kit, part number: 24272475, I’m almost positive he mentioned that comes with snap rings. I’ll look into the low reverse sprag. I also do have a zip kit already for it I bought a year ago.
Are the Raybestos Z Paks the same thing you mentioned about deleting the wave plates? The RGPZ-026 kit with the 2 Z Paks and clutches for the rest is $300 on Rock Auto and then it looks like I need the 615 steel kit to go with it.
OP
OP
Ask your transmission builder about these things so that you can be sure he's familiar and/or has any concerns. I gave you my thoughts but seemed like you're second guessing/questioning them due to your concerns about things not going together like "factory". I'm not building your transmission he is, so his POV is all that counts. Anyone versed in these units would havw no problems at all with the above suggestions but ultimately it's between you and him.
Regardless of what you decide to do, dont cut corners with parts selection.
I’m not second guessing or skimping. I don’t know transmissions, this is one of the few areas I’m completely reliant on someone else, so I don’t want it to be a pain for him since he’s helping me out. When I started looking into this last time, I gave up sorting through the options and said I was going to buy the SRTA and not bother with trying to rebuild and upgrade at the expensive of someone else’s time. If it assembles like factory, I’m willing to do it but I don’t know what does and what doesn’t. The Sonnax parts for the 3-5-R and 4-5-6 looked like I would need to source an extra matching fiber and steel and I don’t know if I want to risk getting the wrong parts trying to find singles. Not many places are selling separate transmission parts online and everyone just wants to sell a kit. I’m sure they make more money that way with less hassle since they know all the parts work together, which I understand, but I’m also not paying $300 for an “overhaul kit” when I can buy the GM seal kit, spacer plate, and filter for $150.
I would doubt he’s familiar with anything aftermarket on these since we would only use OEM parts. He installed the zip kit in my other truck and my coworkers though.
I would doubt he’s familiar with anything aftermarket on these since we would only use OEM parts. He installed the zip kit in my other truck and my coworkers though.
OP
OP
None of my customers buy their own parts, I do all that. They dont know what to buy or where to get it as they, like you, dont know transmissions so they dont get over-involved in the process.
I handle build strategy, parts acquistion and procedural execution. Customer simply tells me year, make, model along with intended usage pattern and engine upgrades (if any) as well as how they need the trans to perform. I take it from there.
If he knows these transmissions then he is fully aware of the Sonnax (and other cos') performance parts available for them and what they do and how to install them. He should also be able recommend a build up for you based on your needs and plans.
Do as you will...
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