Fuel pump upgrades??

[01subCT]

Working on a lq4 swap and upgrading to 42lb injectors with bigger cam long tubes bigger throttle body. My sending unit isn't reading fuel level correctly since I replaced the pump so I figure this time I'll replace it with something better then stock if available.my truck is an 01 suburban.what's everyone doing for upgrades what's being used?? Thanks in advance!! VJ

 

[iamdub]

I've always been a fan of Walbro. There are a few knock-offs and most don't retain the factory bucket-filler function. My recommendation is to get one from Racetronix. I also recommend to power it with a relay directly off of the battery. You can buy a pre-made kit or use 10 gauge wire and a weather-tight relay and socket to make your own. I use weather-tight relays and sockets cut from the electric cooling fan circuits out of salvage yard cars. Aftermarket fuel modules are known to have wonky level sensors. I tested an aftermarket one (Airtex brand) in my utility sink. It turned out that the arm just had too much slack and the contacts on the level sensor would lose connectivity. Pressing the collar further on the arm about 1mm removed the excess play and it worked just as well as my original one, even had the same Ohm scale within (.01 Ohms) from empty to full. I bought the aftermarket one just for the module and level sensor part and replaced the crappy pump with a Racetronix Walbro.

 

[01subCT]

I'll check out racetronix.I was thinking the same thing on a new module an installing a new pump.the aftermarket are just garbage I think it's the 3rd one I've put in over 5 yrs it works but fuel level isn't right under 1/4.the sender you used with the new pump was that the airtex?just figured get a good unit that's been tested.thanks for your input I appreciate it very much!

 

[a4edwin]

I got the walbro gss 340 ordered it from new era performance. Had to rig it to fit my fuel pump bucket. It's in been working no problems since last summer.

 

[iamdub]

...the sender you used with the new pump was that the airtex?just figured get a good unit that's been tested.thanks for your input I appreciate it very much!

It was a custom job- I was installing a fuel tank from an older blazer into my S10. The S10's tank is in front of the axle on the driver's side, the Blazer's tank is centered behind the axle. I ordered the cheapest module I could find on eBay because I just needed the plastic assembly to slip the Racetronix Walbro pump into. If the level sender was crappy, I would swap my stock one over to it. The sender was crappy as expected, but only because the float arm had side-to-side slack in it. If the arm were to move outward, such as when turning, the "fingers" would lose contact with the sensor, which would make the gauge peg to full or empty. I pressed the collar on the arm a little tighter so that the arm could only move up and down with no lateral slack. I tested the arm from all the way down to all the way up and the resistance changed in the same scale as my stock one, so I slipped the Walbro in and installed it and never had a problem with gauge readings or anything. The module came with a new pressure sensor, but it was some no-name brand, so I swapped on my OEM one. Since I had the battery relocated to under the bed, I used a relay to power the pump off the battery and used the original pump power wires to trigger the relay. This eliminates the under-sized OEM pump wiring to ensure that the pump got it's full power. Starving the pump for power makes it pull more amperage, which is why GM updated that wire connector on top of the fuel module. It was inadequate for the amount of current and would burn up and kill the pump or cause a voltage drop (in addition to the drop from the undersized wire), which would eventually kill the pump. The updated connector is good, but the wiring still sucks. The ground for the fuel pump being 6' feet away is ridiculous as well. You want the ground to be as short as possible. Run it to the frame as reasonably close to the pump module as possible.

 

[01subCT]

Great I have some work to do.I emailed racetronix.I'm gonna see if I could just buy a complete module ready to go or just get some parts to build one.thanKS for ur help I let u no how I do!!

 

[shakedown067]

I had to modify the crap out of my bucket for my aeromotive 340. Been running it for about 6 months with no issues except it's kill my fuel pressure regulator. New return style regulator going on this weekend with my other mods. Let us know what you hear from racetronix.

 

[01subCT]

Sure will hope they have a drop in

 

[01subCT]

So no direct drop ins from racetronix they try to sell ya the wiring upgrade an a put install kit.mite go for the wire upgrade.but I'm just gonna grab a cheap aftermarket module an put a good pump in it.mines not reading my tank level right so I'll swap it for a new one to fix that.if anyone else has any ideas or here's of something different drop a reply please!thanks everyone

 

[Maximus1]

A little off topic, but when I do my fuel pump upgrade I'm going to cut out a small square underneath the driver side middle seat to access the pump rather than dropping the tank. I saw a video where the guy did it by folding the seat forward, then lifting the carpet up and cutting the square directly above the sump on the tank. Removed the stock pump and replaced it with a performance fuel pump. Then to seal it back up he took the metal piece he cut out and used some liquid nails glue from the hardware store and glued it back into place. He said that body tar would work just as good and if he ever has to do it again it would be even easier and faster. First time cutting the square and removing the pump I think it took him about 20 minutes from start to finish. Seems a lot easier than wrestling with the tank and having to remove the filler neck hoses all while on your back on the ground