Front MRC Shock Replacement, OE or Aftermarket?

[PrimeTimeSTi]

I was recently told by my GMC dealer that the front shocks in my 16 XL Denali should be replaced. I've only owned the vehicle for about 8 months, 2nd owner, and have about 65k miles on it. I have not yet taken it to either another dealer or independent shop to have them checked out to confirm. From other threads, it seems that this is a common issue for this vehicle, correct? If they are not leaking, how do you know if they are bad and need replacement? I don't have any CELs on the dash. Not sure if there is a stored code. Is it just a stiff ride feeling, or what? I have not looked into how the MRC works, what fails and how, etc. Does anyone have a site or other post string that discusses these more?

Also, I've seen a number of forum threads discussing various aftermarket solutions that people are installing instead of the MRC OE parts. For a daily driver and occasional road trip vehicle, what do you suggest? I'm in MN, so it will be driven in all of our lovely conditions and on our lovely roads. If aftermarket, can you maintain a nice ride just changing the fronts, or should all 4 corners be changed to match ride feel?

 

[drakon543]

old school test was just to get the corner in question bouncing either by jumping on a bumper or just pushing on it. if it kept bouncing the shock or strut in question was shot. if it quickly stops bouncing its fine as long as its not visibly leaking fluid. ive been told by garages on numerous occasions i needed shocks or struts on various vehicles and it was just bs. when i was younger i got alot of vehicles inspected at more "lenient" inspection shops. i have a family with 2 kids so i dont like to play games either way. my vehicles need to be safe but i dont like to waste money. i only have 2 shops i dont mind using they know me and i trust them and they trust me. anyway i dont know if the old school method works anymore on the newer vehicles but shocks and struts seem to be a common thing garages try to get you to pay for that dont actually need to be done.

 

[Big Mama]

As stated above. I’d be surprised if you needed new shocks but it’s possible. As mentioned look under your rig for leaks or worn out bushings where the shock attaches though I’d think you would hear that. The tear is different due to the auto leveling. I’d think on a ‘16 you’d get a DIC light if there’s a problem.

 

[PrimeTimeSTi]

old school test was just to get the corner in question bouncing either by jumping on a bumper or just pushing on it. if it kept bouncing the shock or strut in question was shot. if it quickly stops bouncing its fine as long as its not visibly leaking fluid. ive been told by garages on numerous occasions i needed shocks or struts on various vehicles and it was just bs. when i was younger i got alot of vehicles inspected at more "lenient" inspection shops. i have a family with 2 kids so i dont like to play games either way. my vehicles need to be safe but i dont like to waste money. i only have 2 shops i dont mind using they know me and i trust them and they trust me. anyway i dont know if the old school method works anymore on the newer vehicles but shocks and struts seem to be a common thing garages try to get you to pay for that dont actually need to be done.

I'm definitely not an expert on these magnetic ride control shocks, but due to how they work and what I was told by the dealer, I do not think that the 'old school' method of bouncing on it will work for these. The dealer said something along the lines of the ride being stiffer than normal, not soft and bouncy.

 

[CMoore711]

My experience with the MRC shocks failing is typically they lock-up, and become incredibly stiff. On the forums here I've seen some owners report them failing at 40-60K miles and some at 80-100K miles. The dealership will quote you a very expensive price to replace the front MRC shocks, it'll probably be between $1,800-$2,000. This is because they are typically charging $700-$800 for each MRC shock, a part you can find online for half that. Same OEM GM ACDelco part.

I just had my front MRC shocks replaced on my '15 Yukon XL Denali, got (2) OEM ACDelco MRC shocks off Rockauto for about $720 shipped and paid $200 to have them installed, all-in <$950.

OEM Part should be GM# 84176631

For what you've described I would just replace with OEM MRC shocks.

 

[avalonandl]

Use OEM AC Delco for replacements on Rock Auto

 

[DirtyBlackHoe]

I personally used sensors and deleted the MRC and used Monroe 139104 replacement struts.

I absolutely love how it rides now....couldn't be happier.

 

[Big Mama]

Just for my own info do the MRC shocks stiffen under a load with the ignition off? I understand they won’t bounce like regular shocks but just wondering. @CMoore711 did you get any warnings the shocks failed?

 

[CMoore711]

Just for my own info do the MRC shocks stiffen under a load with the ignition off? I understand they won’t bounce like regular shocks but just wondering. @CMoore711 did you get any warnings the shocks failed?

I'm not sure if the MRC shocks stiffen up under load with the ignition off? Not sure what the "state" of the MRC shocks are when the vehicle is not running, that's a good question. All I know is with both my '15 Yukon XL Denali and wife's '13 ESV when the MRC shocks were shot visually you could see they had been leaking fluid and the shock seems to "lock-up". When I say "lock-up" while driving it feels like there is almost no suspension at all, very bouncy and stiff ride.

There were no warning lights or messages on the DIC regarding failed shocks or "check suspension"; That goes for my '15 Yukon XL Denali or my wife's '13 ESV.

 

[hasan632]

I personally used sensors and deleted the MRC and used Monroe 139104 replacement struts.

I absolutely love how it rides now....couldn't be happier.

Hi,
What other components are needed along with Monroe 39104?
Thankyou,

 

[DirtyBlackHoe]

Hi,
What other components are needed along with Monroe 39104?
Thankyou,

If you are only doing the front (which is what I did), than you need to order the HALF kit from this company.

http://www.xineering.com/

@TheEngineer works for them and is SUPER helpful.

 

[hasan632]

Thanks a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Oh Kee Pah]

@DirtyBlackHoe has the right idea - IMO.

My '15 Tahoe LTZ w/Magneride shocks was purchased at 36k miles and did NOT pass ME state inspection due to leaking front shock. Under the Certified Pre-Owned purchase agreement I was able to get Chevy to replace the single front MRC. However, at 54k miles the other front MRC started to leak and I was quoted $1600 to replace both the front MRCs by Chevy dealership.

I personally wanted to improve my off-road capabilities (bigger, better tires / more clearance, etc) and went with Xineering's GM Shock Sims product for the Magneride delete. This product was born out of Max's passion for automotive tech and racing. The Corvette comes stock with Magneride and the racers need to delete that system in order to improve their track suspension. Max created the GM Shock Sims product out of that need. Since the top trim Tahoes, Burbs and Yukons are equipped with the same MRC as the 'vette, Max and Xineering marketed the product to those users as well. They actually have a fair amount of dealerships using the product to offer lifted trucks/SUVs on the lot.

Long story short, I did both front and back MRC replacement, so installed 8 sensors all together. Basically, the Xineering product tells the computer that the MRC is operating normally and allows you to install any coil/shock combination that fits your fancy, and vehicle. I am running Fox 2.0 Coilovers (adjustable, but mine are set for +2.25" ride height). They ride AMAZING compared to how poor the Tahoe rode with the MRC shocks.
But if you look at the OEM coilover setup vs the Fox coilovers, it's pretty easy to see that the ride should be better. Straight physics there...not to mention superior shock technology.

My Fox 2.0 Front Coilover (prior to install) OEM Magneride


Check out this thread - he did exactly what we're talking about here
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/xineering-z95-delete.114207/

 

[Lalo]

Well before 50K miles on my 2015 Denali I noticed a hard stiff hit over bumps and a squeeking that was driving me crazy . When I removed the Stock mag ride struts and removed the springs and found my passenger strut was leaking , I decided to order the KYB struts from Rock auto with springs already installed , saved me the hassle of compressing the struts again and my stock springs already had some paint peeling off. I cut the wire and plug from the old struts and ordered 1.5 Ohm 100 Watt resistors off Amazon , soldered them in to the factory old strut plugs . Plugged them in and reset the "Service suspension" with my Blue Driver code reader ,I am very happy with the ride , rides better than new , total spent about $330 for the struts/springs and $23 for the resistors.
One thing I noticed about the mag ride suspension, because I drove around for a week until my resistors came in , if you have a "Service suspension" message on your TFT display the mag ride control is turned off by the trucks computer . The rear was real bouncy over speed bumps I thought I was going to have to order the rear air/strut/mag ride shocks too but as soon as I cleared the "Service Suspension" the rears felt good again and my ride went back to normal .

 

[Bo Top]

Well before 50K miles on my 2015 Denali I noticed a hard stiff hit over bumps and a squeeking that was driving me crazy . When I removed the Stock mag ride struts and removed the springs and found my passenger strut was leaking , I decided to order the KYB struts from Rock auto with springs already installed , saved me the hassle of compressing the struts again and my stock springs already had some paint peeling off. I cut the wire and plug from the old struts and ordered 1.5 Ohm 100 Watt resistors off Amazon , soldered them in to the factory old strut plugs . Plugged them in and reset the "Service suspension" with my Blue Driver code reader ,I am very happy with the ride , rides better than new , total spent about $330 for the struts/springs and $23 for the resistors.
One thing I noticed about the mag ride suspension, because I drove around for a week until my resistors came in , if you have a "Service suspension" message on your TFT display the mag ride control is turned off by the trucks computer . The rear was real bouncy over speed bumps I thought I was going to have to order the rear air/strut/mag ride shocks too but as soon as I cleared the "Service Suspension" the rears felt good again and my ride went back to normal .

Which KYB's did you get? SR-4546? Do you have the 22" rims? Do you have an XL?

I joined the forum just now because my Denny tunred 80k and the front end started bouncing like a hoopty wagon. I really like my dealer, but I can't pay $1800 for new front shocks that will quit again down the road.

 

[Bo Top]

Finished mine up. Magnaride is gone and i honestly can’t tell the difference (obviously recently it rode terrible).

Parts: 3/4 xineering kit-$325 (email them about it; 2 height deletes and 4 shock sims)
KYB SR4546- $300
AC Delco 5401723 rear air shocks-$200

Replacing the rear shocks was honestly the hardest as they didn’t leave much room to remove the top bolt. Also the new front struts were about an inch taller which i assume meant the original 80k shocks were collapsed and locked up. Definitely have to remove both front tires and loosen up the sway bar to get the lower A-arm low enough to install. I also added washers to the 3 strut studs because i didn’t think there was enough material since the OEM holes were larger than my replacements.

Off to get an alignment. Very pleased.

IMPORTANT: Read the shock sim install first. You have to install the ride height sims before removing the original mag shocks.

 

[Lalo]

Here is my set up with a small plate I cut out of aluminum to mount the resistor on the strut top mount.

 

[tsuintx]

Replacing the rear shocks was honestly the hardest as they didn’t leave much room to remove the top bolt.

Yup. What a stupid design. I'm pretty sure it could've been made hell of a lot easier. Just did the rears myself last weekend and even though they weren't too too bad, they still could've been easier.

 

[RobDenali]

the price you pay for shock sims and then regular shocks and struts is way cheaper than replacing the magna ride. And they will last much longer too. Just sayin...

 

[olyelr]

the price you pay for shock sims and then regular shocks and struts is way cheaper than replacing the magna ride. And they will last much longer too. Just sayin...

You dont even need shock sims for the rear arnette ones...they come with built in resisters.

Not sure about the fronts (I went with Fox units).