Finally stranded me...

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jyi786

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Update #2: Truck is fixed and I'm about to hit the road.

As usual, you all were exactly right. The starter went bad again. I got it towed to the same dealership that performed the job the first time. They paid for towing as well. Here's what the paperwork says:

"neutral safety pin in starter solenoid broken off on connector; replaced starter"

I have no idea what that is or how it even happened. Should I chalk this up to the fact that the starter was remanufactured? I do NOT want to go through this again.

Special thanks to @Geotrash for being so willing to lend me a helping hand. I owe him dinner next time I'm down in the area.
 
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jyi786

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Would it be worth investing in those mini power starters I've been reading about? Specifically, the Powermaster torque mini starters. I've read that they are tons better than regular starters.

 

89Suburban

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I'm in Richmond and can potentially lend a hand in the morning if needed. Lemme know. Send me a PM and I'll send you my mobile. And, I can also recommend another local shop instead of the dealer if that's helpful.
You da man.
 

Tonyv__

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Last week, I was out of town with my 2012 Yukon Denali XL. I was in Richmond, and I live in Maryland, so it's a bit of a hike.

Anyway, I was going back to the truck, and remote started, and it clicked, like it was getting ready to start...and then after 3-4 seconds *reluctantly* started. This was very strange to me, but I thought nothing of it, especially since the truck seemed to run fine. One more remote start cycle, and it worked fine. Parked in a restaurant parking lot and went to have dinner. Came back out, and remote start, and *click*....nothing. My heart dropped. Got into the truck, and same thing: tried to start, single *click*, and nothing. First thought was that it was the starter. Didn't think it was the batteries, as I have dual batteries. I had to leave the truck in the parking lot overnight.

Ended up having to get a hotel and looked to schedule a tow for the next morning, since I got stuck in town. While I was in the hotel, I did some research and found that most people said it was the starter, and that it probably would work fine if left alone to cool down. I also looked up two dealers; lo and behold, Hendricks Chevrolet/GMC was literally a block from where my truck was parked.

The next morning, I went back to the parking lot, and what do you know: the truck started right up. I took it right to the dealer, and asked them to diagnose. They came back and said one of the batteries and the starter was bad. I was in no position to argue, so I just told them to change all 3: the starter and both batteries. They did...to the tune of $1300. The work was completed in less than 2 hours. Pretty impressive to me. Got the truck back home and everything is fine and dandy. One thing I noticed is that the truck no longer coughs/sputters when starting up: it starts up smoothly, clean, and very strong.

The truck is at 150K miles, which is right when I've read that the starters start to give out. I do believe what the dealer said that also one of the batteries finally died, but the other was masking it, causing it to be unable to supply enough power to crank, but just enough to power everything else in the truck. I've resolved to changing BOTH my batteries out every 3 years.

Think I did the right thing here? They replaced my batteries with 2 AC Delco 48PGs. Are these good batteries?
When you say the truck reluctantly starts. You mean it struggled? Kind of like a dying battery?

I ask because my 15 has been doing this on and off. About 2 months ago it started and I bought a new battery and positive battery cable. The problem seemed to stop but came back today. I haven’t had a chance to diagnose if the battery possibly isn’t charging. Because it’s suspicious the problem went away after a new battery or maybe it’s just a coincidence
 
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jyi786

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When you say the truck reluctantly starts. You mean it struggled? Kind of like a dying battery?

I ask because my 15 has been doing this on and off. About 2 months ago it started and I bought a new battery and positive battery cable. The problem seemed to stop but came back today. I haven’t had a chance to diagnose if the battery possibly isn’t charging. Because it’s suspicious the problem went away after a new battery or maybe it’s just a coincidence
Nope, not like a dying battery. This was the strangest "reluctant" start I've ever witnessed. It literally clicked, turned over EXACTLY ONCE, stopped for about 2-3 seconds flat, then started up normally.
 

Tonyv__

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Nope, not like a dying battery. This was the strangest "reluctant" start I've ever witnessed. It literally clicked, turned over EXACTLY ONCE, stopped for about 2-3 seconds flat, then started up normally.
Hmm mine does more of a struggle start. Like a slow crank. Then starts. But not every time. Just here and there.
 

Geotrash

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Update #2: Truck is fixed and I'm about to hit the road.

As usual, you all were exactly right. The starter went bad again. I got it towed to the same dealership that performed the job the first time. They paid for towing as well. Here's what the paperwork says:

"neutral safety pin in starter solenoid broken off on connector; replaced starter"

I have no idea what that is or how it even happened. Should I chalk this up to the fact that the starter was remanufactured? I do NOT want to go through this again.

Special thanks to @Geotrash for being so willing to lend me a helping hand. I owe him dinner next time I'm down in the area.
Glad you got it fixed, and no thanks needed. I’ve received enough help from good people on this board to make me want to keep paying it forward. But it sure would be great to at least have a beer next time you’re down this way!
 

Tonyv__

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Whoa, that's it! I never thought someone would actually catch it on video!
Now I have to figure out if the battery is a dud (2 months old) or if my starter is in its way out. The battery is doing some funky stuff via the multimeter and when I replaced the battery the problem went away until the other day. However I still felt like it was a slower crank even with the new battery. Never seemed perfect to me…

Do you know if the dealer was able to actually test your starter or did they just change it out
 
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jyi786

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Now I have to figure out if the battery is a dud (2 months old) or if my starter is in its way out. The battery is doing some funky stuff via the multimeter and when I replaced the battery the problem went away until the other day. However I still felt like it was a slower crank even with the new battery. Never seemed perfect to me…

Do you know if the dealer was able to actually test your starter or did they just change it out
They didn't have time to test it. They simply diagnosed it was bad (as well as one of my batteries) and changed it out.
 

bboyce10

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I added the second battery myself. They are simply wired up in parallel using the stock GM battery kit, so basically acts like one battery.

I learned via research last night that I should be rotating (swapping) the batteries, side to side, every 6-9 months. It totally makes sense, since all the accessories are on the main battery. My guess is that I wore down the main battery; this is now the second time I've done so. Rotating the batteries will help level out wear, from what I read.
When batteries are wired in parallel, you are correct that it acts like one 12V battery. The second battery will add additional amps. There is no benefit to swapping,as accessories will draw off both batteries equally (since electrically they are acting as one).
 

TollKeeper

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When batteries are wired in parallel, you are correct that it acts like one 12V battery. The second battery will add additional amps. There is no benefit to swapping,as accessories will draw off both batteries equally (since electrically they are acting as one).
Technically true, however, electricity still follows the path of least resistance, hence why wire gauge is really important when wiring in a second battery, alternators, and amps.
 

Tonyv__

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New starter fixed her up. Haven’t heard it turn over this fast in quite a while. Bummed I threw away $200 on a battery but it is what it is. Never had a starter slow down on me. Just usually flat out dies or you give it the good old tap with a hammer then try again and it kicks over.
 

BG1988

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I added the second battery myself. They are simply wired up in parallel using the stock GM battery kit, so basically acts like one battery.

I learned via research last night that I should be rotating (swapping) the batteries, side to side, every 6-9 months. It totally makes sense, since all the accessories are on the main battery. My guess is that I wore down the main battery; this is now the second time I've done so. Rotating the batteries will help level out wear, from what I read.
smoothing capacitor will start it even faster... this can supply the amperage faster then a lead acid battery


New starter fixed her up. Haven’t heard it turn over this fast in quite a while. Bummed I threw away $200 on a battery but it is what it is. Never had a starter slow down on me. Just usually flat out dies or you give it the good old tap with a hammer then try again and it kicks over.
Fastest Tahoe start in a 1/10th of second

looks like it took longer for the computer to communicate more then anything

 
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RED TAHOE LS

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I'm sure Delco batteries are good enough. Personally, I buy construction, not brand. AGM for me.

And personally, I would have gone through the entire charging system - checking batteries and alternator, before replacing the starter. Not sure I buy the whole 150k starter dying thing. I currently own 7 vehicles, have owned a bunch in my lifetime, and can't remember the last time I replaced a starter. My two GMT900 trucks have 215k and 135k miles with original starters.

If the batteries are simply wired in parallel, I can't possibly see how "rotating" them could make any difference. Assuming you've used proper-gauge wires, any electrical load should be spread evenly between the two. Ditto charging current from the alternator.

I've had dual batteries in my Suburban since 2014, and dual batteries in my Denali since 2016. I don't rotate them and I've only replaced two out of the four in that time.

Also, as you've found out, if you don't use an isolator, there's really no benefit to dual batteries, it's no different than just having a larger single battery. If the truck doesn't start, you still need a jump. One time my Denali died, the primary was so dead it wouldn't even engage the isolator. People watched me get out my cables and jump-start myself. Jaws dropped at my sorcery. LoL
Most of the time the battery is just too far gone, my hoe came with 800 CCA battery and i think I'm on my third one @227k, original starter, two alternators. Delco freedom is hard to beat.
 

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jyi786

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smoothing capacitor will start it even faster... this can supply the amperage faster then a lead acid battery
I'd like to know more about this. Where can I find info and how to install? Google search didn't bring up anything relevant.
 
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