Dropped the tahoe a little more over the weekend

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mcm1209

mcm1209

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I have done a notch before and for the amount of work and welding it in, it is a pretty good deal.
He does trucks for $170
Some bolt in notches are like $150
 
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mcm1209

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Well i didnt do the notch
I just dont want to do anything to the truck that cant be reversed. I went ahead and added a 2" shackle and took off the 1" shackle.
Drove it around last night and this morning with no problems. Looks like there is a good bit of space between the axle and frame, but any lower and it will bottom out.
Cant really tell by the pic but there is a lot less rake to it now.
Im very happy with look
Total now is 4" up front and 5.5" out back

From this:
IMG_0742.jpg

$_57.jpg

To this:
image2.jpg
To this:
IMG_0817.jpg
 
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mcm1209

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Now has anybody relocated their rear shocks?
The advantage the shock extenders gave me is now gone again.
 
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mcm1209

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Front tires were new but not the right weight rating and they had a small out of round problem.
So bought 235/55 Nitto 421
The old tires were 2235/50 and these are 1" taller overall.
They fill up the wheel well better
IMG_0829.jpg
 

Lotshp

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Looks nice Ramon, thanks again for that reference good guy spoke to thim.
 
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mcm1209

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Thanks
Glad I could help.
Now to concentrate on relocating the shocks. Ill be researching and getting under the truck to try to come up with a way to get a better angle on the shocks. Even though I have the extenders the back stiffened up after dropping it another 2".
If anybody has a stock height 2 door 2 wheel drive tahoe that could get me the stock angle of their shocks, i would appreciate it
 
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mcm1209

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Been talking to a fellow 2 dr 2 wd owner that has the same suspension set up but has Western Chassis DS2 shocks and he is telling me his tahoe rides very good.
So ill be changing to those shocks as soon as they get here.
 
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mcm1209

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So yesterday i take a look at my rear u joint on the drive shaft and it was new but had a mark on one of the caps that looked like it was hit dead in the center of the cap. i took off the drive shaft and the rear u joint was very stiff and would stop and take more force to move it at a certain spot. Took it off and put a new one and pressed in the caps. The vibration at 65 is a lot less now.

I also measured my pinion angle and its off by 3 degrees, I've ordered the shims and should be here today.
I will get to the bottom of this vibration if it kills me.

So far this is whats done to the truck and still vibration
All the following parts are new
Drop coils
Drop spindles
Drop leaf springs
Drop shackles
Upper control arm
Lower control arm
Ball joints
Inner/Outter tie rod
Idler arm
Pitman arm
U joints
Rotors
Brake pads
New wheels
New tires
Alignment
Tire balance
IMG_0842.jpg
 
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mcm1209

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Well I got the shimms and installed them.
I don't get the constant vibration any more, BUT, and a big but!!
What i feel now is a vibration that comes and goes. I felt this vibration on top of the constant vibration i was getting before.
Ill try to explain as best i can.
Vibration starts slow and gets stronger then fades out and for a second i have no vibration and it feels great, then the same vibration.

vibration starts small
Vibration gets to a point where the dash is shacking
vibration fades away
no vibration

3 seconds of vibration and 1 second of no vibration

I have read that it may be the converter not locking up or something like that.

Anybody?
 

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