Do I need to upgrade my Alternator for new subs+amp?

[07_hoee]

I’ve got a 2007 Chevy tahoe Ls package and I’m not sure how many amps my stock alternator has but I’m pretty sure its 145amp.
I currently have a single 10” skar audio subwoofer running on a 800w Rms skar amp but im wondering what steps I would need to take to upgrade to 2 12” Subs with a 2000w amp running 1k to each sub

I dont know alot just looking for some good information on what i should do as far as possibly needing a new alternator etc

 

[Fless]

Post up your "Kxx" RPO codes (probably a KGx code) and we should be able to ID the alternator that it came with OE.

 

[07_hoee]

Post up your "Kxx" RPO codes (probably a KGx code) and we should be able to ID the alternator that it came with OE.

I see “DR44” on the side and after some research I see 145 amps, if this is correct what would this mean for my original question(s)? Thanks by the way man!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I believe that you can run the new subs setup with your existing alternator. The reality is that you will only hit peak wattage on a momentary basis, and the needed instantaneous power will be provided by your battery. Using heavy gauge power wire from your battery to your sub amp is an important requirement.

 

[07_hoee]

I believe that you can run the new subs setup with your existing alternator. The reality is that you will only hit peak wattage on a momentary basis, and the needed instantaneous power will be provided by your battery. Using heavy gauge power wire from your battery to your sub amp is an important requirement.

Will it only be near peak wattage at High to Max volumes when I’ve got it up or will it be in that range of peak wattage at more chill volumes?

 

[drakon543]

assuming your also running a cap with the system your wanting to go to? wasnt mentioned so i figured i would ask it. a good high quality battery aswell will help mitigate the draw. a good battery and cap combo will help somewhat on mitigating the draw on the alternator. as for will a 145 handle that yes and no. if its a junk 145 or as its an 07 potentially not the original size so maybe lower than 145. it will definitely handle it but for how long i couldn't tell ya. plenty of guys on here that are big ln the audio scene.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Will it only be near peak wattage at High to Max volumes when I’ve got it up or will it be in that range of peak wattage at more chill volumes?

@drakon543 has a great recommendation with the use of a capacitor to help current load leveling. I would suggest holding off on the capacitor addition, until your system is up and running, and you can see if you have any light pulsing/dimming, when you audio output is high. If you do encounter light pulsing/dimming, install the capacitor as close to your sub amp as possible. Extreme care must be exercised when working with a large capacitor, when charged, as accidentally discharging through you will give you the jolt of your life.

Regarding peak wattage, think of it in terms of frequency ranges. Your sub is going to draw high instantaneous wattage with each drum beat or bass note at high volume, while the other speakers won't draw high instantaneous wattage from those sounds.

 

[07_hoee]

@drakon543 has a great recommendation with the use of a capacitor to help current load leveling. I would suggest holding off on the capacitor addition, until your system is up and running, and you can see if you have any light pulsing/dimming, when you audio output is high. If you do encounter light pulsing/dimming, install the capacitor as close to your sub amp as possible. Extreme care must be exercised when working with a large capacitor, when charged, as accidentally discharging through you will give you the jolt of your life.

Regarding peak wattage, think of it in terms of frequency ranges. Your sub is going to draw high instantaneous wattage with each drum beat or bass note at high volume, while the other speakers won't draw high instantaneous wattage from those sounds.

assuming your also running a cap with the system your wanting to go to? wasnt mentioned so i figured i would ask it. a good high quality battery aswell will help mitigate the draw. a good battery and cap combo will help somewhat on mitigating the draw on the alternator. as for will a 145 handle that yes and no. if its a junk 145 or as its an 07 potentially not the original size so maybe lower than 145. it will definitely handle it but for how long i couldn't tell ya. plenty of guys on here that are big ln the audio scene.

thank you for your comments they are greatly appreciated and needed

 

[07_hoee]

@drakon543 has a great recommendation with the use of a capacitor to help current load leveling. I would suggest holding off on the capacitor addition, until your system is up and running, and you can see if you have any light pulsing/dimming, when you audio output is high. If you do encounter light pulsing/dimming, install the capacitor as close to your sub amp as possible. Extreme care must be exercised when working with a large capacitor, when charged, as accidentally discharging through you will give you the jolt of your life.

Regarding peak wattage, think of it in terms of frequency ranges. Your sub is going to draw high instantaneous wattage with each drum beat or bass note at high volume, while the other speakers won't draw high instantaneous wattage from those sounds.

As you said earlier, I would need to make sure I use heavy guage wiring. Is 8 guage heavy enough?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As you said earlier, I would need to make sure I use heavy guage wiring. Is 8 guage heavy enough?

I would recommend 4 gauge, and if affordable, I'd even consider going with 2 gauge.