Do I "Have" to Remove the Oil Pan to Replace Pump ?

[Foggy]

Ok.. So my next project is going to be my VVT Cam, Lifters, Timing Chain, and Freshen up cylinder heads....
I am not having any oil pressure or consumption issues..... but for preventive maint I'd like to
replace my oil pump & O ring while "I'm there"....
I've done it on LS1 engines (corvettes) and did NOT have to remove the oil pan...
Is it any different on my Gen IV 6.2L ?????

 

[Geotrash]

Ok.. So my next project is going to be my VVT Cam, Lifters, Timing Chain, and Freshen up cylinder heads....
I am not having any oil pressure or consumption issues..... but for preventive maint I'd like to
replace my oil pump & O ring while "I'm there"....
I've done it on LS1 engines (corvettes) and did NOT have to remove the oil pan...
Is it any different on my Gen IV 6.2L ?????

Unfortunately, yes you do. There is a technique where you stuff a rag into the space below the pump to catch the bolts and use a pair of curved surgical forceps to remove and replace the bolts, but having bought a pair of forceps and trying to get it to work, I gave up and pulled the pan anyway, both times. You can replace or delete the oil bypass valve that way, too.

You probably know this already, but you can remove the pan without dropping the whole front axle. I just took out the passenger side axle flange bolts and removed the differential mounting bolts on the passenger side and let the thing hang down. Plenty of clearance that way. I found it easy to do the work to get the pan out, just time consuming.

 

[Foggy]

Unfortunately, yes you do. There is a technique where you stuff a rag into the space below the pump to catch the bolts and use a pair of curved surgical forceps to remove and replace the bolts, but having bought a pair of forceps and trying to get it to work, I gave up and pulled the pan anyway, both times. You can replace or delete the oil bypass valve that way, too.

You probably know this already, but you can remove the pan without dropping the whole front axle. I just took out the passenger side axle flange bolts and removed the differential mounting bolts on the passenger side and let the thing hang down. Plenty of clearance that way. I found it easy to do the work to get the pan out, just time consuming.

Also, I am having an internal discussion about which head gaskets to use.. I know
I can use the OE GM Performance .051 MLS gasket: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12610046 OR GM Perf https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12622033 LS9 Head gasket which is .054 Made for the LS9 - - I don't see any differences that would prevent me from
using this LS9 and it lower my compression just a hair (which is ok since i'm SC'd).
The 3rd option is from Brain Tooley: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/btc-btr22033-2
This is a 7 layer and is .055 thick.. I think it's their version of the LS9... The cost
is approx : $50 vs $70 vs $ $55 so price doesn't factor.. The "real cometics" are about $110 each. I've always used cometic in my SC and NOS fed small block chevys so I know they are good.

Any thoughts?

 

[Foggy]

Forgot to mention : I AM using the ARP Head STUDS when I put this back together

 

[Geotrash]

Also, I am having an internal discussion about which head gaskets to use.. I know
I can use the OE GM Performance .051 MLS gasket: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12610046 OR GM Perf https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12622033 LS9 Head gasket which is .054 Made for the LS9 - - I don't see any differences that would prevent me from
using this LS9 and it lower my compression just a hair (which is ok since i'm SC'd).
The 3rd option is from Brain Tooley: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/btc-btr22033-2
This is a 7 layer and is .055 thick.. I think it's their version of the LS9... The cost
is approx : $50 vs $70 vs $ $55 so price doesn't factor.. The "real cometics" are about $110 each. I've always used cometic in my SC and NOS fed small block chevys so I know they are good.

Any thoughts?

AFAIK, the BTRs are the exact same gasket as the OEM LS9 made in the same factory in Germany, despite the stated difference in thickness. I went with the Fel-Pro MLS because I'm not running any boost, but when I was researching, I remember folks saying that they'd had great luck with the BTR LS9 equivalents, even running 30 psi of boost. I've never bought a piece of junk with the BTR name on it. Especially given that you're running the ARP head studs, I can't imagine you'd have any problems with your setup. If I were in your shoes, I wouldn't hesitate to run the BTRs.

 

[Just Fishing]

Unfortunately, yes you do. There is a technique where you stuff a rag into the space below the pump to catch the bolts and use a pair of curved surgical forceps to remove and replace the bolts, but having bought a pair of forceps and trying to get it to work, I gave up and pulled the pan anyway, both times. You can replace or delete the oil bypass valve that way, too.

You probably know this already, but you can remove the pan without dropping the whole front axle. I just took out the passenger side axle flange bolts and removed the differential mounting bolts on the passenger side and let the thing hang down. Plenty of clearance that way. I found it easy to do the work to get the pan out, just time consuming.

I tried that "remove the pan w/o removing the axle.
it was way easier to just drop the front axle.

Remove the cross member, it makes it much easier.

Also, i use cheap narrow tiedown straps to compress the cv shafts.
Makes it really easy to remove and install like that.

Also unbolt the rack, drop it down and it gives you plenty of room to deal with the front pan bolts and wiring harness.
Don't need to touch the rod ends or hoses, just unbolt and allow it to drop a few inches.

I also watched some vids on removing the pickup tube with the pan on.
Yeah, it's easier to just do it the right way.

 

[Geotrash]

I tried that "remove the pan w/o removing the axle.
it was way easier to just drop the front axle.

Remove the cross member, it makes it much easier.

Also, i use cheap narrow tiedown straps to compress the cv shafts.
Makes it really easy to remove and install like that.

Also unbolt the rack, drop it down and it gives you plenty of room to deal with the front pan bolts and wiring harness.
Don't need to touch the rod ends or hoses, just unbolt and allow it to drop a few inches.

I also watched some vids on removing the pickup tube with the pan on.
Yeah, it's easier to just do it the right way.

Affirmative on needing to drop the cross member and steering rack as well. Didn’t mention it because not needing to drop the differential completely out was the only thing I did that differed from the steps in the manual or alldatadiy. I dropped the pan twice on 2 different occasions and had plenty of clearance with just the pax side of the diff dropped.

 

[Just Fishing]

Affirmative on needing to drop the cross member and steering rack as well. Didn’t mention it because not needing to drop the differential completely out was the only thing I did that differed from the steps in the manual or alldatadiy. I dropped the pan twice on 2 different occasions and had plenty of clearance with just the pax side of the diff dropped.

I'm a pro at it now...