ch4d
Full Access Member
now i love having that drl switch on my 99 hoe.
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Or you could just pull the fuse.. I've ran my yukon like that for 2 years with no ill effects.
haha, seriously. Way easier than all that jazz.
Why is the procedure so complicated? For 1999-belower OBS GM truck, to disable DRL, you just need pull off #15 Fuse from driver-sdie dashboard fuse panel.
This will work as well, but note that fuse #15 is not a dedicated fuse for DRL. Removing is will also disable other functionality. For me it was most notably the dash lights. The mod described here not much harder or time consuming than pulling fuse 15.
Since this was dredged up from the dead, I'll weigh in again: pulled my fuse 4 years ago and only the drl's turned off, no other issues, I do have the green indicator on the dash but I like to have it to remind me my headlights are off while I'm driving. When I stop to fuel up at night or run into the quick shop I turn just the headlights off and leave the markers on, and the reminder is nice when I drive away.I pulled the fuse on my 1996 Tahoe 12 years ago. I have no fog lights and have never noticed any other issue.
Hey buddy, so I have a 97 Yukon slt 4rd 4wd 5.7 and I am so glad I saw this post so thanks. Any, you said that you can't just pull the chip because it will effect other instrument features like the brake light.This could very well apply to any GM vehicle using the same DRL Module 42767.
I have messed with this problem for a while. Everyone has there method, and I found most of them are stop gap measures that really cause other issues.
If you pull the DRL relay then other intrument features will drop.
If you pull the DRL Module again other instrument features will stop, i.e no PBrake light.
After studying the schematic from the factory shop manual I found the best/cheapest solution is the cut the relay lane on the DRL module circuit board. The nice think about this is that with a little solder you can reenable the DRL feature.
Below is a pic of the mod. The right hand tab of the module were it plugs in, the second from the right most connector is what allows the modele to trip the DRL Relay turning on the head lights. Simple score the pathway just above the silver connector part. You will make to cuts about 2mm apart. Then you want to scrap away the copper material between those two cuts. This breaks the electrical connection just for contacting the DRL relay.
This is simple fix. When you look at your module you will see the pathway. If for somereason you want to reenable the DRL feature, just lightly scrap the connector path so that some copper is exposed and reconnect the two with a little solder. It will not take much and don't go more then 2mm onto the silver part of the connector or it will interfere with the reinsertion of the module.
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Your seatbelt tensioner won't work with the drl module removed.Hey buddy, so I have a 97 Yukon slt 4rd 4wd 5.7 and I am so glad I saw this post so thanks. Any, you said that you can't just pull the chip because it will effect other instrument features like the brake light.
Can you or anyone else please go into more deal on that? I ask because I pulled the chip to do what you did but checked everything I could:
headlights- high and low beam, brakes lights, turn signals, reverse light, hazzards, and parking lights. They all worked as usual. I'm only asking because I need to make sure there is nothing I am missing or am I just lucky or what.
Drive at 25-30 mph or so then stand on the brakes and allow yourself to fall forward, if you hit the steering wheel with your face the tensioner doesn't work. The tensioner of which I speak is the one that tightens the belt and doesn't allow it to reel out in an emergency situation, and is electronically actuated, not the coil spring that keeps it neatly across your chest.My seat belt tensioner work fine with the fuse removed![]()
Don't even have to do that. Just a firm swift tug on the belt should engage the lockDrive at 25-30 mph or so then stand on the brakes and allow yourself to fall forward, if you hit the steering wheel with your face the tensioner doesn't work. The tensioner of which I speak is the one that tightens the belt and doesn't allow it to reel out in an emergency situation, and is electronically actuated, not the coil spring that keeps it neatly across your chest.