Dead Hoe - B1440 & B1516

[Sparksalot]

I was messing around with the twins last weekend, and swapped the door cards. Thecopcar had an intact door pull, while theothertwin had the usual nnbs broke ass pull. I did not swap the switch assemblies, those stayed with the respective Hoes.

Fast forward a few days, and I had an actual meeting, need to leave the house. Theothertwin is my daily, so off we go. Or not. It would not start. Nothing, nada, not a click, nothing. The remote locks unlocked, the radio played, all the usual sights and sounds, except... I did try a jump, that did nothing as well.

My blue driver pulls up two codes when I scanned it. B1440 and B1516. note, the exact same stuff was done with thecopcar. It starts and runs fine. So I’m wondering if theothertwin didn’t like being molested, or if the switch unplugged and reconnect was just coincidental.

My real question is what to do. With Minnesota weather in Texas right now, I haven’t been out to fiddle with it.

 

[Sparksalot]

Just yesterday. Nope hadn’t touched it.

 

[Sparksalot]

Today, I was able to get out in the sun and warmer-ish day to check if that door switch thing was coincidental. It seems to have been.

Turning the key I can hear a relay clicking at the under hood fuse panel. Does that mean the ignition switch is completely working? Not sure. I haven’t found a wiring diagram for the gmt900 starting circuits, so not sure where to probe for good signal.

 

[wsteele]

What does your ODB aw say about the battery?

 

[Sparksalot]

What does your ODB aw say about the battery?

Not sure what you mean? There appears to be plenty of power. I did try a jump pack just in case, still no difference.

 

[Sparksalot]

Had my daughter help a bit. While she turned the key, I can feel both starter and crank/run relays clicking. I pulled each one at a time just to be sure they both worked.

 

[Fless]

When you can get under it give the starter a few taps with a hammer and see if it'll turn over. Or see what the voltage is at the solenoid while it's attempting to crank. Might also flex the battery cables to see if that makes a better connection, sometimes they rot from the inside out.

 

[Sparksalot]

When you can get under it give the starter a few taps with a hammer and see if it'll turn over. Or see what the voltage is at the solenoid while it's attempting to crank. Might also flex the battery cables to see if that makes a better connection, sometimes they rot from the inside out.

Getting under is going to be a challenge. I wonder if the solenoid be reached from above to check that.

 

[wsteele]

Not sure what you mean? There appears to be plenty of power. I did try a jump pack just in case, still no difference.

The ODB scanner will tell you what the battery status is voltage wise.

 

[Sparksalot]

The ODB scanner will tell you what the battery status is voltage wise.

Oh. I just popped my voltmeter on them. Both at 12.3 when I did it.

 

[wsteele]

Oh. I just popped my voltmeter on them. Both at 12.3 when I did it.

Got it, I forgot about your handle, should have known you would own a voltmeter.

 

[Sparksalot]

Got it, I forgot about your handle, should have known you would own a voltmeter.

Lol. I have a pair of Fluke 77 meters. They were given to me 25 years ago. No idea how old they really are.

 

[donjetman]

12.3 v is about 60% charged, not good

load test the battery too

 

[wsteele]

Lol. I have a pair of Fluke 77 meters. They were given to me 25 years ago. No idea how old they really are.

The engineers used to say, "if it works, it's a Fluke!"

 

[Sparksalot]

12.3 v is about 60% charged, not good

load test the battery too

I typed 12.3. it was actually 12.6.