Dead battery

[rchurch5945]

I appreciate all the quick responses. The battery is maintenance free and was purchased in 2018 by the previous owner. It is very small so I assume they bought the smallest, cheapest they could find. I feel it is still good since I disconnected it and it held a charge for a full week.

Once I finish the suspension and am ready to drive it regularly, I think I'll go ahead and replace the battery with a decent one and attack this issue at that time.

I cleaned the terminals (which are side posts) and made sure they are fully connected. I think I'll clean the other end of the cables to make sure they are clean and well connected and check that the cables themselves are in good shape.

I did some more research and found an older post here where someone suggested using a multimeter to test the milliamps draw through the negative cable. If it's higher than around 50 mA then there is something drawing power other than the usual things (clock, etc). You then begin taking fuses out one at a time and testing and when the excess draw goes down then that is the circuit that has the problem. You then trace each part of that circuit out until you find the problem. That makes sense to me and is a whole lot less work than tracing every electrical system out and hoping you find it.

But hopefully, it is something as simple as the battery!

Thanks everyone and I'll post some pics. I love the Tahoe and got big plans for it!

 

[rchurch5945]

I appreciate all the quick responses. The battery is maintenance free and was purchased in 2018 by the previous owner. It is very small so I assume they bought the smallest, cheapest they could find. I feel it is still good since I disconnected it and it held a charge for a full week.

Once I finish the suspension and am ready to drive it regularly, I think I'll go ahead and replace the battery with a decent one and attack this issue at that time.

I cleaned the terminals (which are side posts) and made sure they are fully connected. I think I'll clean the other end of the cables to make sure they are clean and well connected and check that the cables themselves are in good shape.

I did some more research and found an older post here where someone suggested using a multimeter to test the milliamps draw through the negative cable. If it's higher than around 50 mA then there is something drawing power other than the usual things (clock, etc). You then begin taking fuses out one at a time and testing and when the excess draw goes down then that is the circuit that has the problem. You then trace each part of that circuit out until you find the problem. That makes sense to me and is a whole lot less work than tracing every electrical system out and hoping you find it.

But hopefully, it is something as simple as the battery!

Thanks everyone and I'll post some pics. I love the Tahoe and got big plans for it!

 

[rchurch5945]

I appreciate all the quick responses. The battery is maintenance free and was purchased in 2018 by the previous owner. It is very small so I assume they bought the smallest, cheapest they could find. I feel it is still good since I disconnected it and it held a charge for a full week.

Once I finish the suspension and am ready to drive it regularly, I think I'll go ahead and replace the battery with a decent one and attack this issue at that time.

I cleaned the terminals (which are side posts) and made sure they are fully connected. I think I'll clean the other end of the cables to make sure they are clean and well connected and check that the cables themselves are in good shape.

I did some more research and found an older post here where someone suggested using a multimeter to test the milliamps draw through the negative cable. If it's higher than around 50 mA then there is something drawing power other than the usual things (clock, etc). You then begin taking fuses out one at a time and testing and when the excess draw goes down then that is the circuit that has the problem. You then trace each part of that circuit out until you find the problem. That makes sense to me and is a whole lot less work than tracing every electrical system out and hoping you find it.

But hopefully, it is something as simple as the battery!

Thanks everyone and I'll post some pics. I love the Tahoe and got big plans for it!

 

[rchurch5945]

I appreciate all the quick responses. The battery is maintenance free and was purchased in 2018 by the previous owner. It is very small so I assume they bought the smallest, cheapest they could find. I feel it is still good since I disconnected it and it held a charge for a full week.

Once I finish the suspension and am ready to drive it regularly, I think I'll go ahead and replace the battery with a decent one and attack this issue at that time.

I cleaned the terminals (which are side posts) and made sure they are fully connected. I think I'll clean the other end of the cables to make sure they are clean and well connected and check that the cables themselves are in good shape.

I did some more research and found an older post here where someone suggested using a multimeter to test the milliamps draw through the negative cable. If it's higher than around 50 mA then there is something drawing power other than the usual things (clock, etc). You then begin taking fuses out one at a time and testing and when the excess draw goes down then that is the circuit that has the problem. You then trace each part of that circuit out until you find the problem. That makes sense to me and is a whole lot less work than tracing every electrical system out and hoping you find it.

But hopefully, it is something as simple as the battery!

Thanks everyone and I'll post some pics. I love the Tahoe and got big plans for it!

 

[OR VietVet]

Spend the money and get an AGM battery in the neighborhood of $150. Good thoughts on the cables maintenance. The multimeter test is spot on. I used to run shops and the 50ma threshold used to be the norm but with the newer vehicles and more computers involved with so many vehicle systems that threshold is higher now. Someone here will chime in with that new normal reading threshold. When you do test, the place to start is the alternator. Unplug it and see what happens on any draw reading. The diode tray in there is a known culprit and easy to test for when you start testing. It likely is the battery but does not hurt to test further and you learn as you do it as well.

 

[OR VietVet]

Something also tells me that you are experiencing the slow post posting time and you hit Post Reply a few times. Sometimes it is quick here and sometimes very slow to post a reply.

 

[BG1988]

this looks like a good replacement 3yr
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-78N/16782712



what brand is currently installed? sometimes you might get lucky and get a claim on it if it's a walmart one(no receipt required)


: The fan blower must be turned to the OFF position when removing/replacing the battery.,

 

[rchurch5945]

Sorry for the multiple replies. I can't tell if it's the site or my computer. I'm definitely replacing the battery. What is an AGM battery. Assuming it is a brand but I'm not familiar with it. I do like the EverStart Maxx from Walmart but we have a small Walmart here and the selection is great.

The post I found on the testing seem to indicate the 50 mA was good for a 96 and it was newer models that had the higher threshold. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

I'm also thinking the alternator as you said so I will test it first.

 

[rchurch5945]

correction - selection at Walmart ISN'T great

 

[OR VietVet]

Yea, the older models 50ma threshold should be good. I was referring to the newer rigs because I did not want to go back and scroll to find your year of rig.

"The sulfuric acid is absorbed by a very fine fiberglass mat, making the battery spill-proof. ... The battery stands up well to low temperatures and has a low self-discharge. The leading advantages of AGM are a charge that is up to five times faster than the flooded version, and the ability to deep cycle."

"AGM or Absorbent Glass Mat is an advanced lead-acid battery that provides superior power to support the higher electrical demands of today's vehicles and start-stop applications. AGM batteries are extremely resistant to vibration, are totally sealed, nonspillable and maintenance-free."

This says it better than I can.