Considering L96 6.0 Swap - Initial questions

[Charlie207]

Which Y-pipe did you use? I'm thinking of one from a denali/escalade with 6.2. But am also wondering if one from a pickup with 6.0 would work.

When you refer to BBP, is that actually BRP Hot Rods? https://www.brphotrods.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoosYQgePMIA1hicggFy-DQNOxLD0RR3mWlguLtZYdUFQTxMWj9E

I used the factory 5.3 Tahoe Y-pipe and cast manifolds for a year, until recently installing the Speed Engineering long-tube headers and Y-pipe. AFAIK, the 5.3 and 6.2 engines use the same exact cast exhaust manifolds, so you won't really see any benefits until you step up to actual headers.

BBP refers to BlackBear Performance, a popular tuning company that many of us have used on this site. It's realistically the 1st thing anyone should look at when they get into the performance/upgrade mindset.

Improves the engine, but more importantly by a mile, upgrades the programming of the transmission, for a better shifting feel. It also helps prolong the life of the transmission.

 

[Marky Dissod]

BBP refers to BlackBear Performance, a popular tuning company that many of us have used on this site.
It's realistically the 1st thing anyone should look at when they get into the performance/upgrade mindset.

What's clearly less well-known is that having your vehicle tuned also yields durability / longevity benefits for even the most tame 'daisy' drivers.

 

[DaveO9]

I used the factory 5.3 Tahoe Y-pipe and cast manifolds for a year, until recently installing the Speed Engineering long-tube headers and Y-pipe. AFAIK, the 5.3 and 6.2 engines use the same exact cast exhaust manifolds, so you won't really see any benefits until you step up to actual headers.

BBP refers to BlackBear Performance, a popular tuning company that many of us have used on this site. It's realistically the 1st thing anyone should look at when they get into the performance/upgrade mindset.

Improves the engine, but more importantly by a mile, upgrades the programming of the transmission, for a better shifting feel. It also helps prolong the life of the transmission.

ah yes, should have gotten that reference. My Tahoe is tuned, both engine and trans, just not from Black Bear.

 

[SuperDave]

I did the 6.0 swap in my 07 tahoe, I bought a used LY6 that had spun cam bearings, I took it to the machine shop where they did their magic on the block, they bored the cylinders out 20 thou installed new pistons and polished the crank. After all was done the only thing original was the block the crank and the rods, the Truck Norris cam was installed in this. Heads were sent out to be cleaned and new valve stem seals installed, they also installed the new springs. after the swap was done I found that a torque convertor was definitely needed, unlike everyone saying this cam was good with the factory stall. For exhaust i had speed engineering long tubes installed that mated up to the GM performance cat back i already had in it. After everything I wish i would have just kept the original 5.3 in it, I feel the truck is now something i can only drive comfortably once in a while, it was my daily for close to 5 years. The cool factor is there though and its a conversation starter for sure when people hear me pull up lol.

 

[DaveO9]

I did the 6.0 swap in my 07 tahoe, I bought a used LY6 that had spun cam bearings, I took it to the machine shop where they did their magic on the block, they bored the cylinders out 20 thou installed new pistons and polished the crank. After all was done the only thing original was the block the crank and the rods, the Truck Norris cam was installed in this. Heads were sent out to be cleaned and new valve stem seals installed, they also installed the new springs. after the swap was done I found that a torque convertor was definitely needed, unlike everyone saying this cam was good with the factory stall. For exhaust i had speed engineering long tubes installed that mated up to the GM performance cat back i already had in it. After everything I wish i would have just kept the original 5.3 in it, I feel the truck is now something i can only drive comfortably once in a while, it was my daily for close to 5 years. The cool factor is there though and its a conversation starter for sure when people hear me pull up lol.

Thanks for sharing your swap story! So not being able to "drive comfortably" - is that just driveability issues? Bigger cam/headers/loud exhaust, higher stall TC, etc? One option I've considered off and on is boring and/or stroking my 5.3 to somewhere in the 5.7 to 6.2 range. BUT... I've realized I don't want a screamer. I want close to stock comp ratio, cam, no headers, no high stall. I just a want a little more torque for towing. Plus every time I do the math, I add stuff up and it seems like I'd be way better off $-wise to just buy a stock iron block 6.0, that I don't have to completely open up to swap. And if I swap in a different motor, I'd have an "extra" 5.3 lying around. Seems like a good excuse for the next project. Have a friend that has a '92 C1500 with a 4.3. It seems like it's just begging for an LS swap.

 

[Charlie207]

Thanks for sharing your swap story! So not being able to "drive comfortably" - is that just driveability issues? Bigger cam/headers/loud exhaust, higher stall TC, etc? One option I've considered off and on is boring and/or stroking my 5.3 to somewhere in the 5.7 to 6.2 range. BUT... I've realized I don't want a screamer. I want close to stock comp ratio, cam, no headers, no high stall. I just a want a little more torque for towing. Plus every time I do the math, I add stuff up and it seems like I'd be way better off $-wise to just buy a stock iron block 6.0, that I don't have to completely open up to swap. And if I swap in a different motor, I'd have an "extra" 5.3 lying around. Seems like a good excuse for the next project. Have a friend that has a '92 C1500 with a 4.3. It seems like it's just begging for an LS swap.

I have a similar setup as @SuperDave , and the driveability is not close to stock at all, no matter what people say.

I have a lot of vacuum surge, and the engine shakes at idle, but..... I assumed that would be the case, and am fine with it. The Truck Norris/Low Buck Truck cams are the same, and not for smooth idle.

From what @Geotrash has mentioned in other posts, the cams from Cam Motion offer good to near-stock maners (sound & idle smoothness) with the benefits of increased performance, while also having specific grinds for each sized engine (4.8, 5.3, 6.0, 6.2, etc...).

When I was assembling my LY6 my final two cam choices were the LBT, and Cam Motion Stg. 2 truck cam (or whatever Geotrash suggested, because he's smart). I went with the LBT cam because I'm not as smart, and enjoy a bit of juvenile delinquency (plus my wife lets me act like a child as long as I'm having fun).

The LBT was $169 at the time, from a well known tester, who had lots of dyno data to share. No rergats, but sometimes I wonder what a Cam Motion clone-cam would be like.

 

[Marky Dissod]

6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80 don't benefit nearly as much from higher-stall torque converters as 4L60 / 4L80.
With the correct axle gear chosen, higher-stall torque converters are almost silly with 6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80.

 

[Charlie207]

6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80 don't benefit nearly as much from higher-stall torque converters as 4L60 / 4L80.
With the correct axle gear chosen, higher-stall torque converters are almost silly with 6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80.

I never feel like I "need" a higher stall, but it probably wouldn't hurt to go from the factory 1600-1800, up to 2000 or so.

The best cam for low-speed torque will always always always be the OEM cam. Any performance cam is just moving the powerband up higher to utilize more airflow, which the 6.0 heads (basically LS3 heads) have more than enough of.

 

[swathdiver]

Don't forget fellas, the more horsepower you put in front of a torque converter, the higher it will stall. A JMBX behind a stock 4.8 has a lower stall speed than a JMBX behind a stock 6.2 motor.

As for injectors, my recommendation is to always go with the FlexFuel injectors as they are bigger and give you a better tuning window. The 54 pound injectors in the L9H can handle a lot of horsepower.

An L96 tuned for 91+ octane will make almost as much power as a stock 6.2 motor. Might even consider putting an L9H camshaft in an L96 during an overhaul.

If building a motor, folks do like the 6.0 block with 799/243 heads for more bottom end torque at the expense of power above 6,000 rpms.


I had grandiose plans to build a custom motor for mine too. Decided to someday just do a stock 6.2 with a Gwatney LLT1 VVT camshaft.


I can say with certainty that the Gen IV 5.3 and 6.2 engines use the same exhaust manifolds.

2007-2010 6.2 engines used a 2.5" Y-Pipe without a 3rd catalyst and 2 bolt flange.

2011-2014 6.2 engines used a 3.5" Y-Pipe with a 3rd catalyst and band clamp.

5.3 exhaust systems use 2.75" tubing. 6.2 exhaust systems use 3.5" tubing. MOST aftermarket exhaust systems for 6.2s use three inch tubing!

 

[Charlie207]

Don't forget fellas, the more horsepower you put in front of a torque converter, the higher it will stall. A JMBX behind a stock 4.8 has a lower stall speed than a JMBX behind a stock 6.2 motor.

As for injectors, my recommendation is to always go with the FlexFuel injectors as they are bigger and give you a better tuning window. The 54 pound injectors in the L9H can handle a lot of horsepower.

An L96 tuned for 91+ octane will make almost as much power as a stock 6.2 motor. Might even consider putting an L9H camshaft in an L96 during an overhaul.

If building a motor, folks do like the 6.0 block with 799/243 heads for more bottom end torque at the expense of power above 6,000 rpms.


I had grandiose plans to build a custom motor for mine too. Decided to someday just do a stock 6.2 with a Gwatney LLT1 VVT camshaft.


I can say with certainty that the Gen IV 5.3 and 6.2 engines use the same exhaust manifolds.

2007-2010 6.2 engines used a 2.5" Y-Pipe without a 3rd catalyst and 2 bolt flange.

2011-2014 6.2 engines used a 3.5" Y-Pipe with a 3rd catalyst and band clamp.

5.3 exhaust systems use 2.75" tubing. 6.2 exhaust systems use 3.5" tubing. MOST aftermarket exhaust systems for 6.2s use three inch tubing!

The LY6 factory manifolds were also the same as my LMG 5.3 manifolds.

As for factory exhaust diameter, it's interesting to note that the 3.5" 6.2 exhausts are "oversized" (I'm paraphrasing) for almost all NA power levels. They said 3" would be more than enough for anything up to boosted airflow levels. But yeah, I'd like to find a used rear Denali/Escalade resonator (Walker 55615) to see how it sounds. But, even the factory 3.5" exhausts are shrunk down to 3" at the joints. It's probably more about the sound profile....

 

[Marky Dissod]

I never feel like I "need" a higher stall, but it probably wouldn't hurt to go from the factory 1600-1800RpM, up to 2000RpM or so.

Don't forget fellas, the more horsepower you put in front of a torque converter, the higher it will stall.
A JMBX behind a stock 4.8L has a lower stall speed than a JMBX behind a stock 6.2L.

The other thing everyone is forgetting is that the 6L80 / 8L90 / 10L80 are simply far superior transmissions to the 4L60E,
as a result they don't NEED to bother with higher-stall RpM torque converters.
Note how GM went out of their way to improve 1st & 2nd gears in each transmission:
4L60E: . . . . . . . 3.06 . . . . . . . . . . 1.63 . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.000 . . . . . . . 0.70 (4.43 Spread)
6L90E: . . . . 4.03 . . . . 2.36 . . . . . . . . . 1.53 . . . . 1.15 . . . . . . . 0.85 . . . . . 0.67 (6.01 Spread)
8L90E: ... 4.56 ... 2.97 .... 2.08 .... 1.69 . . . . . . . 1.27 ... 1.000 ... 0.85 . . . . . . . 0.65 (7.01 Spread)
10L80: ... 4.69 ... 2.99 ... 2.15 ... 1.77 ... 1.52 ... 1.28 ... 1.000 ... 0.85 ... 0.69 ... 0.64 (7.32 Spread)

As a direct result of better (and more!) gears, city MpG, low-throttle drivability, and towing all improved; slipperier torque converters make those things WORSE.
GM still undergeared vehicles with 6L80s, but how GM geared vehicles with 6L90s is a far better solution than a higher-stall RpM torque converter.

 

[Marky Dissod]

even the GM OE 3.5" exhausts are shrunk down to 3" at the joints. It's probably more about the sound profile ...

Our vehicles are long enough, that the exhaust system loses heat to atmosphere,
as a result exhaust gasses cool and shrink. To maintain exhaust velocity and scavenging,
(and save GM a bit o' money), exhausts 'neck down'.

 

[Charlie207]

Our vehicles are long enough, that the exhaust system loses heat to atmosphere,
as a result exhaust gasses cool and shrink. To maintain exhaust velocity and scavenging,
(and save GM a bit o' money), exhausts 'neck down'.

No, I mean, look at the connection... It's 3" off the muffler, but expands back up to 3.5 over the axle.

 

[Geotrash]

I concur with my accomplices here that the L96 (or any) 6.0 would be an excellent choice. And @Charlie207’s comments about the Cam Motion cam are spot on.

I have their stage 2 truck cam in the 'high lift' (.553) version ground specifically for the 6.2. Really happy with it. Just a slightly noticeable burble in an otherwise smooth idle. It makes great power throughout the range and is excellent for towing.

I’ve had guys (usually in a campground) with a keen ear notice that it’s not stock, which is cool. I had a BTR stage 2 cam prior to it and the low vacuum and surging at idle got annoying to me.

 

[Marky Dissod]

No, I mean, look at the connection ... It's 3" off the muffler, but expands back up to 3.5 over the axle.

Am I wrong when I say, it looks like 3.0" into the muph*ler, and 3.5" out of it?

intransitive verb
To perform or handle clumsily or ineptly; bungle. synonym: botch.
To fail to make (a catch).
To perform a task clumsily or ineptly.
noun
A clumsy or bungled action.
A failure to make a catch.
A small cylindrical fur or cloth cover, open at both ends, in which the hands are placed for warmth.
A cluster of feathers on the side of the face of certain breeds of fowl.
A soft cover of cylindrical form, usually of fur, worn by women to shield the hands from cold.

 

[Charlie207]

Am I wrong when I say, it looks like 3.0" into the muph*ler, and 3.5" out of it?

intransitive verb
To perform or handle clumsily or ineptly; bungle. synonym: botch.
To fail to make (a catch).
To perform a task clumsily or ineptly.
noun
A clumsy or bungled action.
A failure to make a catch.
A small cylindrical fur or cloth cover, open at both ends, in which the hands are placed for warmth.
A cluster of feathers on the side of the face of certain breeds of fowl.
A soft cover of cylindrical form, usually of fur, worn by women to shield the hands from cold.

I didn't take AP English in highschool, because I wanted to not have a A-block class that year....

Regardless, I want to find one, even in good/used condition, to see how much it softens the volume, to allow for a different main muffler. I've been on this exhaust-experimenting quest for a while.

 

[Charlie207]

I concur with my accomplices here that the L96 (or any) 6.0 would be an excellent choice. And @Charlie207’s comments about the Cam Motion cam is spot on.

I have the stage 2 truck cam in the high lift (.553) version ground specifically for the 6.2. Really happy with it. Just a slightly noticeable burble in an otherwise smooth idle. It makes great power throughout the range and is excellent for towing.

I’ve had guys with a keen ear notice that it’s not stock, which is cool. I had a BTR stage 2 cam prior to it and the low vacuum and surging at idle got annoying to me.

I wish there was a way to minimize the vacuum issues, and reduce the idle surge, but keep the chop and bump, because it sounds so good with LT headers.

 

[Geotrash]

I wish there was a way to minimize the vacuum issues, and reduce the idle surge, but keep the chop and bump, because it sounds so good with LT headers.

I suspect a hydro boost brake setup would at least eliminate some of the consequences.

 

[Charlie207]

I suspect a hydro boost brake setup would at least eliminate some of the consequences.

That sounds like something I don't want to mess with. Can I duct-tape a Dyson up to the brake-booster?

 

[SpareParts]

That sounds like something I don't want to mess with. Can I duct-tape a Dyson up to the brake-booster?

Dyson not enough but i used to know a chick that could do it. Look for one of them. Rare but they are out there.