codes p219B and p2635

[Tozan]

More things to get in the way before my cross country move... lol

Lets go back 6 months...

I was getting a check eng and P219B code sometime back then. I would reset them and it would be fine for a month or so.

At that timen I changed plugs and wires I noticed the passenger side had normal looking deposits on plugs but the drivers side had black soot on them. I haven't rechecked the plugs yet since then. I also replaced the K&N air filter with a stock one and replaced the MAF and the forward O2 on the pass side.
Seemed to fix the check eng light...

Last month.
When I drove to Louisiana while going through Arizona, New Mex and Tex. my check engine light came on P218B (did reset then after a few hundred miles it would come back) I just kept resetting it.
I had been concerned with my aftermarket fuel cap for a year because it always seemed loose, So I replaced it in Tex and everything seemed fine for a week of driving around in La, and during part of the drive home.. When I got to New Mex (and a little hotter weather) the light came back on. Now that I am back home in Az it comes on about once a week...

Symptoms. Normally it drives fine except, on occasion driving cold first thing in AM in first mile I might notice a very very slight miss then it drives fine. Otherwise it seems to drive normal.

Up to date now..
Trouble codes... P218B when the check eng light came on and after clearing it stays off for five days or so. Yesterday I hooked up a cheap code reader and was seeing a P2635 in addition to the P219B

So, I sprayed a whole can of carb cleaner around the intake manifold and around a lot of the vac lines (no change in idle)

I have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow but was hoping to get some wisdom from you guys... Too bad I am not in So.Florida..

 

[Tozan]

These are some photos of the fuel trims

 

[swathdiver]

...seeing a P2635 in addition to the P219B

P2635 means that either your fuel pump is about to go out or the FPCM. If your pump is not able to maintain 42 psi at WOT, she's kaput. It's commanded pressure is always 43.5 psi once warmed up.

The P219B is probably the result of an aftermarket oxygen sensor. The computer is seeing a difference between both sides of the engine. A large exhaust leak between the cylinder head and sensor can also do this. I had this set once when the kids didn't screw in the new O2 sensors all the way.

Edited to change ECM to FPCM.

 

[opfor2]

P2635 means that either your fuel pump is about to go out or the ECM. If your pump is not able to maintain 42 psi at WOT, she's kaput. It's commanded pressure is always 43.5 psi once warmed up.

The P219B is probably the result of an aftermarket oxygen sensor. The computer is seeing a difference between both sides of the engine. A large exhaust leak between the cylinder head and sensor can also do this. I had this set once when the kids didn't screw in the new O2 sensors all the way.

I had a consistent P219a on my 2011 using "upstream" Denso O2 sensors, I replaced then with OEM GM O2's and now we are good.

 

[Tozan]

P2635 means that either your fuel pump is about to go out or the ECM. If your pump is not able to maintain 42 psi at WOT, she's kaput. It's commanded pressure is always 43.5 psi once warmed up.

The P219B is probably the result of an aftermarket oxygen sensor. The computer is seeing a difference between both sides of the engine. A large exhaust leak between the cylinder head and sensor can also do this. I had this set once when the kids didn't screw in the new O2 sensors all the way.

That may explain why I still got the P219B after replacing the O2 with an aftermarket one.

Is there a way to determine if it is a ECM or the pump?

I wonder how much the dealership will want to replace a fuel pump?

 

[Tozan]

I am wondering if it is the ECM since I don't have a spare tire mounted underneath to help protect it?

 

[opfor2]

I am wondering if it is the ECM since I don't have a spare tire mounted underneath to help protect it?

The ECM should be in the engine compartment.

 

[Charlie207]

The ECM should be in the engine compartment.

I assume he meant the fuel pump module.

That being said, I had been dealing with the P219A and P219B codes after doing some WOT runs, and my tuner said it was a fueling issue. I couldn't figure that out, because mechanically, everything was fine. I ended up replacing all four O2 sensors with GM OEM (Denso stamped, but different looking) from Rock Auto. Since then I've only gotten a P219A or B CEL once or twice since then. So, it's probably partly a sensor issue, but I should go double-check that my manifold bolts are all tight.

 

[Doubeleive]

That may explain why I still got the P219B after replacing the O2 with an aftermarket one.

Is there a way to determine if it is a ECM or the pump?

I wonder how much the dealership will want to replace a fuel pump?

probably around $650 to do the pump, if you order a pump from herko and diy you can save almost $500
herko sells overstock, nos, oem parts, some they scribble off the oem mark and put there own mark, some they scribble the number off
not sure why exactly probably some legal reason so they don't get sued by gm
they mostly sell coil packs, injectors, fuel pumps but carry other stuff also.
this is there "herko" branded one (398ge), you can pretty much bet money it's a relabeled oem pump\

Herko Fuel Pump Module 398GE For Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Tahoe Yukon 08-14

Buy 398GE Fuel Pump Module Assembly Herko Automotive. Fit Chevrolet,GMC,Cadillac,Tahoe,Yukon,Escalade

store.herko.com

 

[swathdiver]

Is there a way to determine if it is a ECM or the pump?

I wonder how much the dealership will want to replace a fuel pump?

You can test the pressure, if it drops off more than 1-2 psi at WOT it's no good. You test the FPCM by doing an ohms test.

Shop time to replace the fuel pump assembly in the tank is 2.6 hours not including the drain and fill.

 

[Tozan]

Here is how my day went at the dealership....

I had an appointment today at 10:00 am brought my Tahoe in at 9:30 after driving 80 miles to get there. I was told there is a minimum $220.00 diagnosis fee for testing my check engine light coming on. OK, I have no problem with this. I was an auto tech and factory trained by several manufactures and a Service Manger earlier in my life... But at 68, I have no desire to do my own repairs and wanted to hopefully depend on the experience and knowledge of a local Chevrolet dealer. After 6 hours of waiting I inquired how things were going. I was told they were not able to complete any tests due to an aftermarket intake tube, MAF and o2 sensor. These items have been working fine for over 130,000 miles with no problems and in no way are related to the problem... I asked why they didn't tell me this 6 hours ago, (no answer)... They wanted me to replace them with factory parts so they could start testing.. The parts in question have nothing to do with the problem I brought it in for. They just wanted me to spend money on things not related to the problem. They said if they replaced all those things and it doesn't fix it then next thing I would need is a new Cat. (this is called a shot gun repair just throw more parts at it and hope something will fix it) At this point I was a bit upset since it took them 6 hours to come to an inaccurate conclusion and they didn't bother telling me until I called them. Fortunately they decided to not charge me for their technicians inability to diagnose the problem... I decided to take my CHEVY to the FORD dealership next door and it took them 20 minutes to test and diagnose then give me an answer I think it's time to switch to a Ford.

The fix... As I understand it he reset the alcohol mix and a few other things. He checked all my sensors, fuel pressure, canister, valves, evap system and they are working fine. He said some of the codes might have been getting tripped as I went cross country and used a lot of variations in fuel types. This makes sense since most of the time the check eng. light came on shortly after getting gas.

I am thinking the eng light and codes coming on before are not a big deal now.

 

[swathdiver]

If your alcohol content was off, get rid of that aftermarket oxygen sensor. Your codes related to that ought to go away.

How is your fuel pressure when you are driving around and at WOT? Does it drop below 42 psi?

 

[dkad260]

If the P219B code is an imbalance, then in my opinion, I would replace BOTH upstream sensors with OE sensors. This code shows an imbalance between the two banks, so get fresh sensors on both banks then go from there. Could be a faulty injector(s) but if the sensors have over 100K on them that's where I would start

I do this every plug change around 80K miles. Plugs and upstream sensors all in one go.

 

[Tozan]

If the P219B code is an imbalance, then in my opinion, I would replace BOTH upstream sensors with OE sensors. This code shows an imbalance between the two banks, so get fresh sensors on both banks then go from there. Could be a faulty injector(s) but if the sensors have over 100K on them that's where I would start

I do this every plug change around 80K miles. Plugs and upstream sensors all in one go.

All my other o2 sensors are original.. I have 260,000 miles on them.

Fuel pressure looks pretty good so far over 42 psi.

 

[Coveman]

lol..go ford dealership! Lets face it, it’s not just the shop its also the technicians. Find a good one and stick with them.

My son had a rubbing noise from his transfer case and I drop shipped him the part and arranged to come down to install it with him in a few weeks. The noise started to increase so he took it to the chevy dealer to do the swap. They told him that they dont service trucks that old! (1999 burb)

I worked at a dealership in my youth and felt they were honest, and they worked on pretty much anything and the service manager wasn’t looking to upsell every customer —but holy cow, ever been to a german car service department? I think they run every service ticket to breathtaking heights…but they have a very nice coffee lounge!

 

[dkad260]

All my other o2 sensors are original.. I have 260,000 miles on them.

Fuel pressure looks pretty good so far over 42 psi.

Are you saying the other upstream sensor has 260K miles and now paired with a new one??? Unless I missed something.

O2 sensors have a finite lifespan, and it's not 260K miles. They get lazy and respond slowly with reduced accuracy? How's your fuel economy?

You can have a lazy, inaccurate upstream O2 sensor with no codes present.

FWIW, no chance I would run 2 sensors with remotely half the mileage discrepancy.

If you are chasing a bank imbalance with a new O2 sensor on one bank, and a 260K mile sensor on the other....then I don't know what else to recommend at this juncture.

 

[Tozan]

Are you saying the other upstream sensor has 260K miles and now paired with a new one??? Unless I missed something.

O2 sensors have a finite lifespan, and it's not 260K miles. They get lazy and respond slowly with reduced accuracy? How's your fuel economy?

You can have a lazy, inaccurate upstream O2 sensor with no codes present.

FWIW, no chance I would run 2 sensors with remotely half the mileage discrepancy.

If you are chasing a bank imbalance with a new O2 sensor on one bank, and a 260K mile sensor on the other....then I don't know what else to recommend at this juncture.

Yes three real old ones and one new...

I decided to just replace all 4 sensors with GM parts... I was also going to replace my MAF sensor but the dealership said they are no longer available... That makes me wonder how the dealership was going to replace it the other day with an original GM MAF so they could keep testing it. What idiots they are...

 

[dkad260]

the dealership said they are no longer available

What year is your Tahoe? I don't know if all the 07-14 5.3's are the same.

 

[Tozan]

What year is your Tahoe? I don't know if all the 07-14 5.3's are the same.

2011

 

[dkad260]

I would use some MAF cleaner on it anyway. Also make sure there's no air leaks between the MAF and the throttle body.

Once you get the upstream sensors installed, remove the NEG battery cable from the battery for 15 min or so, some say 30 but I do this when I start the job and it's def at least 15-30 min. This will let the PCM relearn the trims and hopefully should help your issue.

Other than that it could also be an injector(s) as I had mine rebuilt around 140K and some of the filter baskets were coming apart.