Clicking Noise = Dead Battery 2013 Tahoe

[JMS214]

Hi all,

*posted this in General as well*

Hi all,

I'm getting a clicking noise coming from the rear passenger trunk panel when I start my 2013 Tahoe. It clicks rapidly when I first start the truck but stops once I've been driving a while. I think it is causing a drain on my battery as well. If I don't run my truck for 24 hours it won't start. Has anyone had an issue with this? I thought it could be something with the power liftgate but I turned it off and no luck. Thanks.

 

[Doubeleive]

the passenger rear panel has the rear hvac unit behind it, it has 2 actuators that control the hot/cold air and up/down air flow, it could be that one of the actuators is bad or getting stuck and making the clicking noise (they have a gear inside). that should only happen when the key is on so it is unlikely to be the source of the battery brain but i guess anything is possible.
any other issue's? is one of the interior lights being left on at night? any other accessories plugged in that could be draining the battery?

 

[OR VietVet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.


Is it the original battery? I own an 02 so I am not real knowledgeable of the rear leveling system. Could that be activating and making noise?

 

[JMS214]

the passenger rear panel has the rear hvac unit behind it, it has 2 actuators that control the hot/cold air and up/down air flow, it could be that one of the actuators is bad or getting stuck and making the clicking noise (they have a gear inside). that should only happen when the key is on so it is unlikely to be the source of the battery brain but i guess anything is possible.
any other issue's? is one of the interior lights being left on at night? any other accessories plugged in that could be draining the battery?[/QUOTE

I took it to Firestone and they said its a bad HVAC Actuator. Have you ever replaced this piece? 500 for them to knock it out.

 

[Doubeleive]

whaaaat! $500? damm I am in the wrong business, you can do it yourself in like 10 minutes, the oem part is a little pricey about $100 but $500 is stupid high
the only issue you may run into is which actuator? there is 2 behind the panel, the one closest to the blower motor controls hot/cold the one further up controls air up/down for the rear.
once you have the panel off you should be able to narrow it down by the noise real easy.
this guy lay's it down for the nbs, the nnbs is easier the procedure is almost identical.

 

[Kee Fuller]

Pnw vet will post those 2 paragraphs every chance he gets. Lol!

 

[OR VietVet]

Pnw vet will post those 2 paragraphs every chance he gets. Lol!

Look at all the signature's filled with vehicle info now. Without it, it is like having a specialty shop for say nothing but 2000 to 2006 Tahoes and Yukons and the parking lot is full of them and the customer drops off the rig with the keys and states his problem and then the service writer asks which vehicle and the customer says, "You figure it out".

I just always thought it was real stupid to come here and ask for help on their rig and never give the vehicle info. I was good when I ran shops but I was never ever able to read minds.

 

[JMS214]

Hi all, thanks for the responses. Firestone ended up replacing the actuator for 350 and the battery is working completely fine now. Thanks again for the tips.

 

[ddann19]

We just experienced something similar, started up just fine last night and ran a quick errand, and this morning dead battery. Only, our clicking noise is coming from our driver door switch, my wife said the thing is freaking out! Which when it was at the shop last week, here are the codes they pulled in the history.

Same Code for Door Switch Driver and Door Switch Passenger.
B2555 Passenger Compartment Lamp Control Circuit Short to Battery.
U0140 Lost communication with Body Control Module

U0233 Lost Communication with Side Object Detection Control Module.

We did notice the blind spot acted funny sometimes, it will indicate an object, when one is not present.

So this is frustrating for me. Mechanical issues is one thing, electrical issues, in the past just seem to not be able to be corrected.they will come and go.

Do these have frequent electrical issues. I didn't really read that when I did my research....
So what is going on anybody know? I don't know what those codes mean really I guess.

 

[OR VietVet]

https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Chevro...e7e5cd24ed24635&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=3&at_tot=4

 

[swathdiver]

Do these have frequent electrical issues. I didn't really read that when I did my research....
So what is going on anybody know? I don't know what those codes mean really I guess.

No, electrical gremlins are not frequent unless they are caused by a weak or failing battery. If yours was mine Dustin, I'd put the Tech-2 on it see what kind of condition the battery is in. Your B2555 could be causing the battery to drain below 11 volts which will begin setting off all kinds of codes when the various modules run their various self-tests. Some modules throw codes when below 9 volts.

If you don't drive the truck often or very far the battery is going to wear down and will rarely be fully charged, this is where a battery tender comes in handy to 1, keep the truck charged and 2 to recondition the battery to like new status.

From the shop manual:

DTC B2555

DTC Descriptors
DTC B2555 01

• Passenger Compartment Lamp Control Circuit Short to Battery

DTC B2555 02

• Passenger Compartment Lamp Control Circuit Short to Ground

Diagnostic Fault Information

Circuit/System Description

When the body control module (BCM) signals for courtesy lamp operation, a message is sent over the GMLAN serial data circuit to the driver door and passenger door switches. The driver door switch and passenger door switch the applies battery voltage to the left and right courtesy lamp control circuits illuminating the door courtesy lamps. The driver door and passenger door switches also provide ground to the lamps.

Conditions for Running the DTC

• Battery voltage must be between 9-16 volts.
• A message is sent from the BCM over the GM LAN serial data circuit to the driver door and passenger door switches to active the door courtesy lamps.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

B2555 01

This DTC will set when the driver or passenger door switch detects a short to voltage in the courtesy lamp control circuit.

B2555 02

This DTC will set when the driver or passenger door switch detects a short to ground in the courtesy lamp control circuit.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

B2555 01

When this DTC is present, the door courtesy lamps will remain illuminated.

B2555 02

When this DTC is present, the door courtesy lamps will be inoperative.

Conditions for Clearing the DTC

• The condition responsible for setting the DTC no longer exists.
• A scan tool CLEAR DTCs command is issued for that switch module.
• A history DTC will clear once 100 consecutive malfunction-free ignition cycles have occurred.

Circuit/System Testing

1. Disconnect the X2 harness connector at the inoperative door module.
2. Verify that a test lamp illuminates between the ground circuit terminal 15 and B+.

¤ If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal replace the affected door module.

1. Connect a test lamp between the control circuit terminal 10 and the ground circuit terminal 15.
2. Command the Puddle/Courtesy Lamp ON and OFF with a scan tool. The test lamp should turn ON and OFF when changing between the commanded states.

¤ If the test lamp is always ON, test the control circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit tests normal, replace the inoperative door module.
¤ If the test lamp is always OFF, test the control circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the inoperative door module.

1. If all circuits test normal, test or replace the courtesy lamp bulb.

Short answer, might need a new light bulb.

 

[ddann19]

thanks for the read. We just bought this a little under 2 weeks ago. so it went to the shop last week for a wellness visit, and to see where we should start getting this up too speed with where we want it. So it actually is going back tomorrow to start working through some of the items we have on it to fix. So ill pass along what I ha e learned so far to my shop. Thanks

 

[Kevinf89]

I have a B2555-01 code but no courtesy lamps on panels?