Changing rotted backing plates/dust shields

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btravis02

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Driver Side C-clip not showing

Hi folks, I'm stuck. I got the passenger side axle c-clip removed fine but the dirver side axel is not pushing in enough to expose the c-clip? Any ideas on why shaft won't provide enough play to see the clip or is there any other way to get the clip to unseat?

Thanks
 

oneradride

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Well you are probably tempted to turn the axel, but I strongly recommend you don't. It may be ready to come out.. how are you trying to grab it? A magnet (for me anyways) worked the best. Needle noise and other methods can force the C-clip one way or another making it seem like you don't have the axel in far enough. You might also try tapping the axel shaft with the wheel removed, but you run the risk of knocking those spider gears out.
 

geddy2112

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Just joined this forum yesterday. I owned my 2002 Yukon new and never took it to on the beach, yesterday, i bought new rear rotors and pads and was ready to do the install and found the driver side backing plate half rusted. So i decided to take the job further not knowing what i was into. The hardest part was paying for those backing plate. The job was pretty straight forward. One thing i did different than the OP and it may help others tackling this job is you can loosen the emergency brake cable adjuster just in front of the driver side rear wheel. Once you loosen that adjuster, you can just pull on the whole cable and remove the whole emergency cable assembly out of the backing plate.

Hope this helps.
 

ESV_Platinum

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thank you for the write up

i installed new dust shields (what a PITA)

they are still making all kinds of noises, sounds like part of it hitting the inside of the bell for the disc brake

any ideas? I would just rip the damn things out if they werent holding the e-brake on there
 
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thank you for the write up

i installed new dust shields (what a PITA)

they are still making all kinds of noises, sounds like part of it hitting the inside of the bell for the disc brake

any ideas? I would just rip the damn things out if they werent holding the e-brake on there

Did you buy the two piece design or the one piece design. Before you put it all back together did you check for clearance?
The noise you hear could very well be the brake pads and not the backing plates if you already replaced the plates with new ones.
 

RAMurphy

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This is an awesome post. Once the weather cools down, I will be conducting this repair. Thanks for taking the time to provide these procedures.
 

RobbieX210X

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I know the post is a bit old but some of the photos are not displayed for me. Is it only me? The write up is great because I will be testing this soon myself I don't have the money to pay anyone and I'm getting tired of my truck chugging like a train because of these plates.
 

RobbieX210X

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Anyone ever get stuck on the bolts for the calipers? Not the outer part the part attached to the axle itself? We got one but the other already claimed one ratchet wrench.

Sent from my Vortec 350 powered droid.
 

RobbieX210X

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I just finished this project and the directions are great. I had to buy a bunch of new parts but I saved over 1000 dollars to do it myself. My truck does squeal but that should go away.

Sent from my Vortec 350 powered droid.
 

72overlander

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Thanks for the Information

I just took care of my rear brakes on my 2005 Yukon finally after several days of unbearable grinding sound. Backing plates were really bad. In fact, removed large part of one in order to bang off damaged rotor. This is going to be a project sooner or later. I always get worried removing things in the diff. maybe I should just do it and get it over with.
 

imi4tth3w

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this thread got me curious. i've had a little squeak in the back of my truck for a while now. i already took it apart and figured out it was my parking brake shoe, but i wanted to check out these backing plates.

not to make anyone jealous, but here's what my stock 200k mile backing plates look like

null_zpsf5b0b090.jpg


southern vehicles FTW
 
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sorry I havent responded to this thread, I dont get to check the forum very often. All the pics appear to be up and working as of now. sorry if they werent there before. Hopefully they dont go down again as I no longer have them saved on my computer..
 

Wake

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this thread got me curious. i've had a little squeak in the back of my truck for a while now. i already took it apart and figured out it was my parking brake shoe, but i wanted to check out these backing plates.

not to make anyone jealous, but here's what my stock 200k mile backing plates look like

null_zpsf5b0b090.jpg


southern vehicles FTW

Yeah, that's about the only thing I don't like about living in a snow/salt area. I grew up in AZ, spent almost half my life after that in CA before moving to the D.C. area about 8 years ago.

After rebuilding some suspensions on a few cars over the last few years I'm finding out I don't enjoy it as much as I used to. Cutting off rusted and rounded bolts, shock towers, end links, cleaning and re-painting suspension and frame parts, etc. Now the jobs take me usually twice as long as they used to, amazing how one rusted/broken part can double the time of a job.

Eventually as I get older I'll start transitioning to letting shops deal with these annoyances. In the end it's a small compromise to live in a place with a lot of beauty.

I know a couple of guys who did classic auto restoration, they are east coast natives. One thing I couldn't understand is how they start with basket case cars. One guy I mentioned to that he should look for AZ, TX, and CA cars to start with. There's a whole lot less to rebuild, and many times only surface rust to deal with on the old 60s and 70s cars from out west. Here you get rotted floor pans, trunk pans, holes in body panels, etc.

---------- Post added at 10:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 PM ----------

And this is what the rotted old one looks like in comparison to the new one..
oldvsnew.jpg

Looking at this thread again got me thinking.

When I had to adjust the e-brakes I wire brushed and sprayed the crap out of the backings with rustoleum, several coats. Over time though I'm sure that coating will get chipped up and start to rust again.

Has anyone ever tried anything a bit more substantial on their underbody parts? I was tossing around the idea of using spray/paint on truck bed liner to cover parts that don't get too much heat, figuring that it would be better protection than a thin coat of paint.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I spent most of my time out west where we didn't see snow and salt on the roads and we didn't have this kind of problem to deal with. And now every time I get under the truck to work on something I take the wire brush, some carb cleaner, and a can of rustoleum with me. I've wire brushed the driveshafts (rained down rust on me), cleaned them and painted them with rustoleum. Cleaned and painted over the places on the frame where the coating is missing, and even cleaned and sprayed the underbody in places that started to look like they were affected by the environment here. I also wire brush any nuts and bolts I can see and hit them with a coating of rustoleum as well for future wrenching. I figure that should keep the rust down and make removal easier.

I bought a can of paint on truck bed liner for when I'm rebuilding the suspension and steering in the spring. I'm hoping that will protect the underside a little better. As I take the parts off I'll be cleaning and coating everything I can get to.
 

chef choy

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Has anyone gone without replacing. Seems like a ton of work.......The majority of mine just fell off.....
 

RAMurphy

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Completed this Repair

I just completed this repair on my 2002 Tahoe with 196K miles. Thanks for the post. My plates were not in real bad shape but they were causing the well documented noise/scrapping sound. I ended up throwing more parts at it then I originally planned due to wear and tear of 195K miles. My passenger side axle was worn at the bearing interface. The driver side looked ok, but I replaced it anyway. The passenger side seal leaked, so I ended up replacing the brakes and the rotors. Only difficult part was removing the old bearings. What a PITA. All back together and the noise is gone - very very quiet.
 

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